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Here's how I did it:
Thanks for that...

I decided to wedge the motor casing open and pulled the whole switch out (I thought it had to be cut/spliced the way people were talking)... did you do the same?

Does the switch need to be open (natural) or closed (forced)? It seems I missed the tutorial on this one... glad I stumbled on the convo above before I put this back together.

 

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Closed. And because it kept on opening, the printer was always giving an error when starting up.
That's why I taped it and sticked it to that corner :)
Thanks for sharing this info, I'm sure others will be happy to find it in the future!

I have ONE more question, if you have the moment... I think I saw someone else mention it earlier in this thread as well, but nobody answered:

How are you connecting to the ink bags to the DX4 dampers?

I have these tall dampers and the nipple inside them is TAPERED (see pic below, nipple gets fatter the lower down it goes)... so the tubing size that fits nicely on the BAG nipple, doesn't stay nicely on the DAMPER nipple.

It literally slides itself off, even with the locknut it's not very trustworthy. :/


Just curious if I just have a crappy set of dampers? Is there one with a STRAIGHT nipple (like the DX7)... or are you just dealing with the problem and being extra careful?

Here's mine, it's a clear / double-tall... wondering if there's a better option out there?

 

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I don't have any problems with the dampers, they fit quite good, but they don't look like yours.
These are the dampers in the printhead: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/10-...32733939287.html?spm=2114.13010608.0.0.DQGXUz
And these are the dampers replacing the ink cartridges: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/10p...32704168752.html?spm=2114.13010608.0.0.SChzXH
Thanks... think I figured out the problem... I bought this:
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/hig...32481061508.html?spm=2114.13010608.0.0.aYhe8V

Notice the title says both 3*2mm and 3*1.8mm... I didn't see any other 1.8mm tubing out there, so I assumed this was 2mm and the seller was just adding extra keywords to the title... but now I'll bet that .2mm is REAL and it's making a difference on the tapered dampers.

Anyway, this 8-way connected tubing works on the DX7 (head) dampers, because they aren't tapered... so I'll just go to Amazon and find some 2mm ID for the DX4 cart dampers, hopefully back on track.

I just hate spilling ink. ;)
 

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Thanks for the DX7 damper links, I purchased from 2 different vendors and both cause my printhead to leak.

Also, I can't see the images in your post?

I don't have any problems with the dampers, they fit quite good, but they don't look like yours.
These are the dampers in the printhead: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/10-...32733939287.html?spm=2114.13010608.0.0.DQGXUz
And these are the dampers replacing the ink cartridges: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/10p...32704168752.html?spm=2114.13010608.0.0.SChzXH





 

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Thanks... think I figured out the problem... I bought this:
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/hig...32481061508.html?spm=2114.13010608.0.0.aYhe8V

Notice the title says both 3*2mm and 3*1.8mm... I didn't see any other 1.8mm tubing out there, so I assumed this was 2mm and the seller was just adding extra keywords to the title... but now I'll bet that .2mm is REAL and it's making a difference on the tapered dampers.

Anyway, this 8-way connected tubing works on the DX7 (head) dampers, because they aren't tapered... so I'll just go to Amazon and find some 2mm ID for the DX4 cart dampers, hopefully back on track.

I just hate spilling ink. ;)
I didn't want to take any risks with the bags and the tubing so i bought these:
Shut-Off Male: KENT Systems: Quick Couplings | Tube Fittings | Media Bags
Media Bag: KENT Systems: Quick Couplings | Tube Fittings | Media Bags
Tube: KENT Systems: Quick Couplings | Tube Fittings | Media Bags

To connect the dampers with the tubes I bought these: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/10-...32556340246.html?spm=2114.13010608.0.0.rORx3u

I'm in Portugal and everything from USA has to come through customs (which adds 23% and services to the final value) but the bags, the tubes and the shut-off male are definitely worth it.
 

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Thanks for the DX7 damper links, I purchased from 2 different vendors and both cause my printhead to leak.

Also, I can't see the images in your post?
I don't know how to fix that... :/

You can see all the photos and videos related to this project here: https://goo.gl/photos/Kj9qMDgfHBTrijmB8

They're not in any special order and please ignore the end of all the videos :) I made them for friends and they always end the same way :)
 

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Discussion Starter · #110 ·
WOW! Love what you did with the treatbot enclosure.

I am making a DIY pretreat machine and will probably use you idea lol

Your pictures are not showing up in the actual thread fyi.

Does any one have the correct order of the color lines to the inkbay printhead when doing the dx7 conversion?

Like yellow tube goes to which printhead nozzle?
 

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I found out the problem with the images. It's a Google Photos issue, even if using a full url of an image Google will still block it unless it's me or someone I shared it with. It's a way of preventing bandwidth abuse. Sorry, didn't know about that.

The photos I posted before are now in attachment.
 

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The dx7 dampers leak where the barbs go into the damper.

Did you get this fixed?
I've recently done this conversion, and I have an idea (below)... but I'm stuck on something else, so I haven't done it yet.

Can I ask, how did you choose to deal with the chip reset issue?

I used the expensive electronic reset board from china, soldered the ribbon cable contacts to three Epson chip boards... but it's not entirely working... it resets the carts, but gives me persistent errors regarding "cart not properly seated, try reseating" (some work, others don't)... which is blocking me from getting any ink flowing to the head. :/

I'm now trying to decide what my next move is since I don't think there's a way to test this crap... I'm open to anyone's suggestions?? Chip reset is a real pain in the ***.

Anyway, regarding the leaking DX7's... I'm assuming it's because the dampers get pulled together in the middle, they aren't seating nicely... you could try wedging them apart better, but that's kinda sketchy on the lungs.

So go buy some "liquid electrical tape" (Plastidip) at the hardware store... brush some really lightly around the rubber openings on the dampers (the idea is to keep the surface as SMOOTH as possible, but build up a little more thickness)... let it dry, it turns to a flexible rubber and should help seal up any gaps.

There may be better products for this tweak, but you get the idea.
 

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Discussion Starter · #114 ·
Yeah I think the dampers I got the spacing is wrong. They are the DX7 version, but they are more of a rectangle and not the circle ones.

THe circle ones probably work better, not sure tho.

I have a R3000, and I just pull out/trigger the ink bay open signal when it says that the cartridge is low. This resets the empty cartridge to full. Works on all chips I have used.

I bought 10 full sets of chips off aliexpress for when I need to do a full ink charge. I dont do many of them, so still have lots of chips.
 

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So i backpeddled my cart bay situation, but now i'm stuck on another odd problem... i did the printhead damper conversion and now i'm getting a 0x03 error (something to do with the black ink pump missing).

So I tried plugging the pump back in and rebooting, but it doesn't help... curious if anyone dealt with this when they removed the pump?

I'm not sure how to bypass it... but it kinda makes sense that removing the pump would cause an error, that white plug is just left open... and yes, i taped the black switch closed.

Did I miss a step somewhere? This crap is driving me crazy, one thing after the next. :/
 

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you need to cut the ink selector sensor wiring. Then connect the two right wires together.
See photo
Thanks, I had that switch taped open... but I went and spliced it permanently now... still no change. :/

The error is actually this one:
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
0xD9 H --- Ink selector motor driving time error: Increase of changing load of ink selector (deformation of gear)
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Does that make sense to anyone?
The motor isn't even attached anymore... what gear?? :/

The carriage begins initializing just fine, it slides across, does it's little dance, settles down to do the blue bar "initializing" step on the touchscreen... then it errors out.

This is just killing me, i'm on my 2nd motherboard at this point because of that stupid chip resetter... one step forwards, three steps back... I really need to get this thing at least printing again, I'm about to smash it and burn down Epson offices for building all this vague crap into their equipment!! ****GRRRRR!!!****
 

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Hello
just some picture of my set up

i have bottles to supply the ink.
On the white ink bottle i have a micro water pump for aquariums running on 5v just to mix the ink better and easier..i do this every morning for 2 minutes and is great. :)

I have used dampers as well and i removed the chips from the cartridges.
I have cut some white 3mm pvc just to push the chips inside in the pins..
nothing fancy but it works pretty good..

thanks




 

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Hello
I have the dx4 dampers replacing the cartridges.
For some reason i cannot prime the dampers above the head.
I pull the sringe and there is a lot of pressure.
dx4 dampers have ink in, lines are free from blockage, clean the head dampers.
Any idea what could be wrong?
Regards
Mark
 

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Hello
I have the dx4 dampers replacing the cartridges.
For some reason i cannot prime the dampers above the head.
I pull the sringe and there is a lot of pressure.
dx4 dampers have ink in, lines are free from blockage, clean the head dampers.
Any idea what could be wrong?
Regards
Mark
I'm no expert on this mod yet, still dealing with my own problems mentioned above...

but this is a pressurized system... you don't use a syringe to pull ink to the head... the printer will pull the ink through to the head with the INK CHARGE (or multiple "HEAD CLEANING") functions found in the Epson Adjustment Program.

If that doesn't make sense... you need to post a picture or two showing us what you're trying to do.
 
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