T-Shirt Forums banner
1 - 13 of 14 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
265 Posts
@jgabby Hey dude... shame that Dozer shutdown the FB group, there was still some good info on there. :/

Anyway, I'm just about to do the DX4/DX7 conversion (along with the P600 Chip Decoder install that @treefox2118 mentioned)...

It's been a while, I'm curious how the DX7 part of your setup is working out... is it still running strong? Anything to watch out for, etc?

Just trying to decide whether it's really worth installing that mod right now... my machine is already flushed and torn down, so it's not the work... just the reliability, does the DX7 mod still work well?

Thanks for the update man, I've learned a lot from your posts!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
265 Posts
Does converting to DX4/DX7 dampers make it possible to use IA inks? what about the printhead itself, is that still not problematic?
You can use IA ink without this conversion.

Replacing ink cartridges with dampers is for convenience... cartridge microchips are fickle, they love to crap out... carts leak, have to be replaced regularly... importing from China is the cheapest method, but it adds up when you need to keep buying them every month or two just to have extras on-hand in case something dies... ink carts are by far the worst part of the entire system.

Dampers sidestep that whole problem.

It has nothing to do with ink brands though, I was running IA ink in a stock setup and it was fine.

And yes, White ink is still problematic in ANY direct to garment printer... there's no fixing the fact that White ink air dries in minutes... which means ANY direct to garment printer needs to have White ink run through the lines at LEAST every 24 hours... otherwise you start risking ink dried in the lines (cart lines, printhead, cap station, everywhere).

I would suggest not buying a DTG until you understand just what you're getting into... these (White Ink) machines are a disaster waiting to happen... you need to be on the ball, every single day... and when they break, it's expensive and (down)time consuming... it's like fixing your car on the side of the road out in the middle of nowhere.

IA ink has nothing to do with this thread topic.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
265 Posts
I'm not sure its true that people are doing this just for convenience (cart issues), then it makes no sense to change the head dampers, I got the impression it's to help with ink flow by increasing the damper sizes. An IA ink seems to be for a lot of people problematic with the stock P600 system.
There's talk of an ink flow benefit, but I honestly question whether that's a placebo... it's a pressurized system.

I could be wrong, but I didn't notice a huge ink flow problem with a stock setup (though I suppose ink settling in the lines could build up quicker with smaller tubing)... but IA inks are like water, literally... the "settling" is the only problem, not an ink flow restriction from dampers being "too small" or the like.

What you're referring to is only half the story... as far as I know, there was a bad batch of IA ink that circulated a while back, due to poor handling of the volatile WHITE ink... some of our European friends had problems (which may have also been due to the long shipping times overseas = read: settling)... IA reps said it was because the company hadn't figured out (yet), that they needed to teach suppliers to handle the inks a certain way (White needs to be shaken daily, it can't sit on a shelf for weeks/months)... basically, nobody was shaking them in storage and that caused settling, which caused immediate grief for some unsuspecting DTG owners... I think you can read about all this (and all the questions you have about IA inks) on the IA website... I don't work for them, but I also don't have any complaints using their inks... and the cure times are much better than DuPont, so they shouldn't be overlooked in your research (the KEY word).

As far as the dampers go, they're a "consumable"... meaning they eventually clog and need to be replaced (depends on your print volume)... carts are harder to deal with in this context, as mentioned in my post above... cart "dampers" are an easy swap, which is what you want when you're in the middle of a print run and your machine stops working.

The printhead damper mod is again, a matter of convenience... when one of them clogs and needs to be replaced, it's NO small task to get into the printhead and swap one out (or even inspect to see if that's the problem)... I THINK this was mentioned earlier in this thread, the benefits of the head damper mod.

All the damper mods do is allow easier/access/cheaper/maintenance, which is an inevitable fact of running a White ink DTG... you don't need to do these mods, and you really shouldn't until you get more familiar with running your machine stock... you gotta learn to ride the bike, before you start building custom bikes.

Learn through experience, not cutting corners following advanced tips on forums... understanding the entire system from the ground-up is the only way you'll be able to keep a DIY machine running with the least amount of pain / without painting yourself into a corner... there's nothing worse than not being able to fill an order, AND not knowing what your options are to get running again in a pinch (if your shipment from China is gonna take 10+ days to reach you, for example).

There's no substitution for personal experience... and you will die a painful death in the DIY DTG game without it... people will help randomly online, but there's no real support... bite the bullet, learn hard, THEN customize to suit (and contribute back to the community when you can)... just doing it and rolling with the punches, is how it's done.

You don't get a foolproof system with DIY... you get a simple roadmap... then it's up to you to take the initiative and make your life a success... for example, you need to find all these dampers and mod parts on your own... you can buy ink carts in China, but there's no ONE guy anyone can tell you about... it's up to you to research WHAT you need and WHO to buy it from... it's work, and the only way to figure it out is to learn it innately through bare necessity and the pressure to make your project a success... nobody can teach "experience".

Point being, IA inks quality control issues have been solved... those issues never had anything to do with the P600... if you haven't read about that yet (because you're not reading what IA reps are writing), then you have more DTG research to do before you should be considering "head damper mods" on a custom DIY printer. :)

Keep reading, buy a machine and figure out how to make it work... THEN start doing mods because you understand WHY you want them for your particular business needs.

Or buy a prebuilt machine that comes with support... I hear @spectra is pretty good! ;)

Anyway, off topic... so I'll leave it at that.... good luck, just do it!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
265 Posts
Yeh thats not the problem. You know above the printhead there is 2 pins, a white and black. When you convert to DX7 dampers, you can ,forget the white but need to put the black back and connect the wires. What is the correct connection of these wires?
You ever figure this out?

I have a pic of the wires from @jgabby (I think), but I can't tell what he's actually done with the loose ends??

It looks like they're just taped... but then they're also hanging down next to the dampers... are they attached to something for grounding/circuit completion??

 

·
Registered
Joined
·
265 Posts
Here's how I did it:
Thanks for that...

I decided to wedge the motor casing open and pulled the whole switch out (I thought it had to be cut/spliced the way people were talking)... did you do the same?

Does the switch need to be open (natural) or closed (forced)? It seems I missed the tutorial on this one... glad I stumbled on the convo above before I put this back together.

 

·
Registered
Joined
·
265 Posts
Closed. And because it kept on opening, the printer was always giving an error when starting up.
That's why I taped it and sticked it to that corner :)
Thanks for sharing this info, I'm sure others will be happy to find it in the future!

I have ONE more question, if you have the moment... I think I saw someone else mention it earlier in this thread as well, but nobody answered:

How are you connecting to the ink bags to the DX4 dampers?

I have these tall dampers and the nipple inside them is TAPERED (see pic below, nipple gets fatter the lower down it goes)... so the tubing size that fits nicely on the BAG nipple, doesn't stay nicely on the DAMPER nipple.

It literally slides itself off, even with the locknut it's not very trustworthy. :/


Just curious if I just have a crappy set of dampers? Is there one with a STRAIGHT nipple (like the DX7)... or are you just dealing with the problem and being extra careful?

Here's mine, it's a clear / double-tall... wondering if there's a better option out there?

 

·
Registered
Joined
·
265 Posts
I don't have any problems with the dampers, they fit quite good, but they don't look like yours.
These are the dampers in the printhead: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/10-...32733939287.html?spm=2114.13010608.0.0.DQGXUz
And these are the dampers replacing the ink cartridges: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/10p...32704168752.html?spm=2114.13010608.0.0.SChzXH
Thanks... think I figured out the problem... I bought this:
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/hig...32481061508.html?spm=2114.13010608.0.0.aYhe8V

Notice the title says both 3*2mm and 3*1.8mm... I didn't see any other 1.8mm tubing out there, so I assumed this was 2mm and the seller was just adding extra keywords to the title... but now I'll bet that .2mm is REAL and it's making a difference on the tapered dampers.

Anyway, this 8-way connected tubing works on the DX7 (head) dampers, because they aren't tapered... so I'll just go to Amazon and find some 2mm ID for the DX4 cart dampers, hopefully back on track.

I just hate spilling ink. ;)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
265 Posts
The dx7 dampers leak where the barbs go into the damper.

Did you get this fixed?
I've recently done this conversion, and I have an idea (below)... but I'm stuck on something else, so I haven't done it yet.

Can I ask, how did you choose to deal with the chip reset issue?

I used the expensive electronic reset board from china, soldered the ribbon cable contacts to three Epson chip boards... but it's not entirely working... it resets the carts, but gives me persistent errors regarding "cart not properly seated, try reseating" (some work, others don't)... which is blocking me from getting any ink flowing to the head. :/

I'm now trying to decide what my next move is since I don't think there's a way to test this crap... I'm open to anyone's suggestions?? Chip reset is a real pain in the ***.

Anyway, regarding the leaking DX7's... I'm assuming it's because the dampers get pulled together in the middle, they aren't seating nicely... you could try wedging them apart better, but that's kinda sketchy on the lungs.

So go buy some "liquid electrical tape" (Plastidip) at the hardware store... brush some really lightly around the rubber openings on the dampers (the idea is to keep the surface as SMOOTH as possible, but build up a little more thickness)... let it dry, it turns to a flexible rubber and should help seal up any gaps.

There may be better products for this tweak, but you get the idea.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
265 Posts
So i backpeddled my cart bay situation, but now i'm stuck on another odd problem... i did the printhead damper conversion and now i'm getting a 0x03 error (something to do with the black ink pump missing).

So I tried plugging the pump back in and rebooting, but it doesn't help... curious if anyone dealt with this when they removed the pump?

I'm not sure how to bypass it... but it kinda makes sense that removing the pump would cause an error, that white plug is just left open... and yes, i taped the black switch closed.

Did I miss a step somewhere? This crap is driving me crazy, one thing after the next. :/
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
265 Posts
you need to cut the ink selector sensor wiring. Then connect the two right wires together.
See photo
Thanks, I had that switch taped open... but I went and spliced it permanently now... still no change. :/

The error is actually this one:
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
0xD9 H --- Ink selector motor driving time error: Increase of changing load of ink selector (deformation of gear)
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Does that make sense to anyone?
The motor isn't even attached anymore... what gear?? :/

The carriage begins initializing just fine, it slides across, does it's little dance, settles down to do the blue bar "initializing" step on the touchscreen... then it errors out.

This is just killing me, i'm on my 2nd motherboard at this point because of that stupid chip resetter... one step forwards, three steps back... I really need to get this thing at least printing again, I'm about to smash it and burn down Epson offices for building all this vague crap into their equipment!! ****GRRRRR!!!****
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
265 Posts
Hello
I have the dx4 dampers replacing the cartridges.
For some reason i cannot prime the dampers above the head.
I pull the sringe and there is a lot of pressure.
dx4 dampers have ink in, lines are free from blockage, clean the head dampers.
Any idea what could be wrong?
Regards
Mark
I'm no expert on this mod yet, still dealing with my own problems mentioned above...

but this is a pressurized system... you don't use a syringe to pull ink to the head... the printer will pull the ink through to the head with the INK CHARGE (or multiple "HEAD CLEANING") functions found in the Epson Adjustment Program.

If that doesn't make sense... you need to post a picture or two showing us what you're trying to do.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
265 Posts
Do you have positive long time expirience? Is this modification better then original system (cartridges + fabric dampers) ?

Do you have problems with ink flow, and need to adjust the Ciss bottles Height?
Cartridge damper conversion is a MUST... using cartridges is a huge unnecessary pain in the ***... bags and dampers work great!

The printhead damper conversion is nice, but isn't really necessary... it really depends on the volume of shirts you're printing each day, month, year... the more ink, the more potential for needing a damper change. It's relative to how big your business is.

No ink flow problems. No need to adjust ink bag height. It just works.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
265 Posts
I should mention, I just posted my entire shirt business for sale on the classifieds... if you guys are looking for DTG parts, I'm selling EVERYTHING!!

I'm retired. :D

Look for my username on the classified, there's about 5 listings... the Epson P600 listing has a loooong list of parts at the bottom.

PM me if you wanna buy something!
 
1 - 13 of 14 Posts
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top