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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi All

I posted this question in the wrong place so my apologies for this double post, I am trying to get a line of Rash Guards going and would like to know if I can do it myself using Sublimation transfers and a heat press. They are 80% poly and 20% spandex and Im confused as to if the heat press will burn through them or not and where I can get my art work put on sublimation paper. Thank you in advance for your replies.
 

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Hi All

I posted this question in the wrong place so my apologies for this double post, I am trying to get a line of Rash Guards going and would like to know if I can do it myself using Sublimation transfers and a heat press. They are 80% poly and 20% spandex and Im confused as to if the heat press will burn through them or not and where I can get my art work put on sublimation paper. Thank you in advance for your replies.
With a poly/spandex blend you may have to experiment a little for the right temp. Keep in mind many heat presses are 10+ degrees off between displayed temp and actual temp.

There are people here on this forum that should be able to assist you in printing your designs.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
With a poly/spandex blend you may have to experiment a little for the right temp. Keep in mind many heat presses are 10+ degrees off between displayed temp and actual temp.

There are people here on this forum that should be able to assist you in printing your designs.
So it can be done then, would I need some sort of teflon paper between the heat element and the garment? Thank you very much for the reply I was starting to think I would have to have them printed overseas
 

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So it can be done then, would I need some sort of teflon paper between the heat element and the garment? Thank you very much for the reply I was starting to think I would have to have them printed overseas
You will a barrier inside the shirt between front and back as ink will blow through otherwise. As far as between the shirt and the heating element it really depends on the paper. We use Beaver Tacky paper and it has neverpblown through to the top heating element since the day we used it. I would guess it has something to do with the tacky treatment . Some of the thinner less expensive paper will blow through to the upper platen.
 

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It should work, however some synthetic fabric don't take sublimation well because of different treatments applied by manufacturers. I have tested some poly-lycra before that looked fine to start with, but the next day there was migration of ink in all directions from the print. I would recommend getting an extra shirt and doing some test prints first.

Keep in mind Spandex and Lycra blends shrink a bit, which could cause ghosting.
You may need to pre-press the rashie before applying the design and use either tacky positioning spray or tacky dye-sub paper to avoid ghosting.

Good luck with it!
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
It should work, however some synthetic fabric don't take sublimation well because of different treatments applied by manufacturers. I have tested some poly-lycra before that looked fine to start with, but the next day there was migration of ink in all directions from the print. I would recommend getting an extra shirt and doing some test prints first.

Keep in mind Spandex and Lycra blends shrink a bit, which could cause ghosting.
You may need to pre-press the rashie before applying the design and use either tacky positioning spray or tacky dye-sub paper to avoid ghosting.

Good luck with it!
Thank you both very much I really appreciate the help, I ordered some samples just to do testing now i just need to get the art work printed to transfer sheets.
 

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You can't sublimate on black and only very dark prints will stand out on red.
DYe sublimation DYES the design into the fabric - dark colours can not be dyed into anyother colour.

When you see sublimated shirts with dark background - they actually started as white panels that were printed before garment assembly.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
You can't sublimate on black and only very dark prints will stand out on red.
DYe sublimation DYES the design into the fabric - dark colours can not be dyed into anyother colour.

When you see sublimated shirts with dark background - they actually started as white panels that were printed before garment assembly.
So the printing on this would need to be something other than sublimation. Ok thank you very much for the info.
 

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These were definitely printed on white panels before assembly.

Plastisol probably not the best option for stretchy garment. For this type of fabric dye-suib is the best because the print is permanently dyed into the fabric and will never deteriorate no matter how many times the shirt is stretched and washed.

Another issue with your sample designs - printing on the sleaves and shoulders of already assembled garments will have big difficulties and limitations:
You would have to raise the printing areas not to interfere with the rest of the garment;
When pressing onto coloured garments you are risking some discolouration in places where the image is pressed (i.e. some original colour could be "lifted" by transfer and there might be a lighter patch around the design;
Not even mentioning the fact that the more prints you do one one shirt - the higher your chances of something going wrong - ghosting, bleeding, shine...

Like Riderz said - cut and sew.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
These were definitely printed on white panels before assembly.

Plastisol probably not the best option for stretchy garment. For this type of fabric dye-suib is the best because the print is permanently dyed into the fabric and will never deteriorate no matter how many times the shirt is stretched and washed.

Another issue with your sample designs - printing on the sleaves and shoulders of already assembled garments will have big difficulties and limitations:
You would have to raise the printing areas not to interfere with the rest of the garment;
When pressing onto coloured garments you are risking some discolouration in places where the image is pressed (i.e. some original colour could be "lifted" by transfer and there might be a lighter patch around the design;
Not even mentioning the fact that the more prints you do one one shirt - the higher your chances of something going wrong - ghosting, bleeding, shine...

Like Riderz said - cut and sew.
I'm really starting to love this place, you guys really know your stuff. Thank you very much all that replied. Now I'm not so confused :)
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Hi Wil,

How did you go with working out sublimating on the rashies. Just looking for ideas on temperature, time, tips etc?

Thanks
Sorry it took me so long to answer, i actually ended up listening to the advice and i ordered them sublimated already. I ordered from a place in Pakistan and it actually worked out pretty good.
 
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