[DyerOil]

I've never designed for puff embroidery before and I'm working from a complex pre-existing design. The client REALLY wants this design for puff on a cap, but I reduced it as much as I can and am still being told it won't work.

Is there a way to work a design like this as a puff? What changes, alterations need to be made in order to get it work correctly? is it even possible?

Thanks in Advance.

Ron

 

[tfalk]

If a client walks in your door today and says they want the Eiffel Tower built in their parking lot by tomorrow morning, what do you tell them?

Some requests are simply not worth the effort. Unfortunately, some clients simply don't understand that what looks good on paper simply cannot be done in thread. Even removing most of the detail, I don't see any way to effectively do that logo in puff. If it could be done, it would take a serious amount of time to digitize it and even then, I don't think it would look good but that's just my $0.02...

 

[DyerOil]

Thanks. That is where I stand right now as well. I just didn't know enough about the puff to say that at the beginning.

 

[digidana]

If they HAVE to have foam in there somewhere, i would say maybe do the horns and the beard. doing the head in different stitch groups using different stitch types and directions with the foam on top might look cool. then again, it might look awful. but its an option.

 

[Dewayne Washingt]

You have to have the rite software to digtize the images IN 3D PUFF.

 

[tfalk]

You have to have the rite software to digtize the images IN 3D PUFF.

Um, no... virtually any software that has the ability to digitize shapes can be used for puff. There are no, to my knowledge, software packages that can automatically digitize for puff.

 

[digidana]

You have to have the rite software to digtize the images IN 3D PUFF.

its a technique....not a software.

 

[JaeAmera]

Gotta love those customers that dream of making a tomato out of a potato.

Give them all the reasons why it will be very, very, difficult to do / why you can't do it....while sliding them towards other options that will give them brand merchandise (hats) that will look great and be respected for their craftsmanship.

One hint of wisdom....if you have NEVER done the request, don't R&D with the customer. Unless, the goal is R&D (we do a lot of testing for clients but the goal is "will it work?" so whatever happens...happens)

Jae

 

[LTPEMB]

I do some R&D for customers but I tell them its R&D and that is part of the setup fee. We test test test test for stuff like puff before we sell it. If it is something I know that cannot be done well just from experience I try not waste time/money but i am always open to trying stuff/making adjustments as long as the client is aware there is no guarantee it will be perfect. I usually recommend a better resulting option anyways.

That Said I got a flash of inspiration while reading this and have attempted fill onto puff... repectable results need to come up with better edges but a result is a result

 

[digidana]

attempted fill onto puff... repectable results need to come up with better edges but a result is a result

post your results? i'd love to see. i always wondered what would happen. i've never tried it.

 

[LTPEMB]

These are less Succsesful examples but more of a prrof of potential concept. I basically digitized a random shape (kinda kidney shaped) and then used the wilcom settings to control how I wanted the stitches to lay out. It isn't terrible and has potential for use given the right artwork... that said I ran the idea in 15 minutes. (the main idea i had wasn't the art but the stitch settings)

Yes I know it looks aweful in picture but I purposefully used opposite foam to highlight where improvement would be needed. Mostly I wanted to see if you could get a manageable result or if it was just impossible... I would call this manageable but needs improvements.

 

[LTPEMB]

My improvment idea is to use a specific set of input c and stitch edging in combination with this object setting.

 

[digidana]

wow, it kept more height than i thought it would. what density did you use?

i think running the satin stitch around the outside is a good idea. i'd probably make it a jagged stitch on the inside so it didn't cut the foam in a straight line under the fill. kind of like this?:


but then...i don't like having a raw fill stitch edge if it can be helped. i'd probably make the shortest stitch length 1 mm to clean the edge of the fill up a bit. or...i wonder what it would look like to reverse the fill and satin stitches and have the satin stitch sew last?

 

[LTPEMB]

I considered the satin on top but as thought experiment wise it would probably cut the material too much.
For me Raw fill edges are okay if you play with settings right (I have too many clients NEEDing raw edge due to fabric and artwork that just can't add extra outlines and keep registration and overall simplicity of a log look good so as a rule i just avoid outlining when i can and improve on and work hard to make good attractive fill edge settings. In this case I would say the edges need to maintain an overlap of 75% to 80% over the input c object.

Essentially thats what I would do for the edge as well. Although that satin wouldn't be quite as wide though playing with the randomness and jagged distances.
Settings... shhh top secret but
5mm length,
Minimum 1.2mm (need to keep from having small stitches that you get at the edge of tatami fill)
density .15mm to .20mm.
zig zag style fill type. (keeps edges from creating chisel gaps.)

Essentially as with all puff control, mastery of settings and material would be key. the settings and breking up objects to maintain direction, manually creating travel runs, and turning off auto update.

Intense puff artwork is a perpetual thought experiment of layering/breaking apart objects and balancing out how many times thread and more importantly the presser foot goes through the material in a given space. Every time you compress the material i becomes thinner, overlapping artwork sections don't always work.
That comes back to the stitch settings i chose... 5mm is wide enough to cover a large area without compressing the same section of material repeatedly between subsequent stitches.

 

[binki]

The only way I would put that on a hat is if the order was large enough and I could source it so it is sewn flat and then constructructed. Otherwise no chance I would consider it.

 

[LTPEMB]

Most of the experiments didn't work But I came up with a new method and managed to make something that works way better than I expected.

 

[LTPEMB]

wow, it kept more height than i thought it would. what density did you use?

i think running the satin stitch around the outside is a good idea. i'd probably make it a jagged stitch on the inside so it didn't cut the foam in a straight line under the fill. kind of like this?:


but then...i don't like having a raw fill stitch edge if it can be helped. i'd probably make the shortest stitch length 1 mm to clean the edge of the fill up a bit. or...i wonder what it would look like to reverse the fill and satin stitches and have the satin stitch sew last?

I did end up trying that method and it ended up creating ridges within the puff that I was not happy with. The satin densities are too tight that even useing the jagged edge would cut and tear it too much.

I also didn't like using a pure satin outline because it over stressed the puff on the inside edges and cut into the fill area foam even harder, and I have used stitch shortening before and that always ends up creating uneven puff and extra choppyness. So I created my own stitch pattern tool that the outer appearance of satin but has half as many penetrations on the inside edge than the outside edge, compensates some of the lofting variance from multiple sewdowns (better results would be had from a better machine but I am ways away from that investment) on the puff, and doesn't have the unpleasant puff separations/splits you get when you use stitch shortening with normal satin.