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problems with polyestor

1324 Views 13 Replies 7 Participants Last post by  type1teez
I have an order for some 100% polyester shirts. I did a two pass and the image was weak , so I flash dried it and then did another 2 pass to get a good image . My problem is the shirt is pulling up with screen leaving a texture look . Not sure if off contact is too much I know it isn't too low. I spray platen with adhesive . I'm using plastisol yellow on purple shirts. Really not happy with finished product . Help please!
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If your platen gets too hot the adhesive doesn't work as well. Could that be it?
The shirts are purple and the ink is yellow . Wasn't sure if angle of squeege an issue or mesh count (156).If I spray the platen heavy then it is tricky to get shirt off clean.
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Is it poly ink? Jeez I hate printing with that stuff, it's like printing with bubble gum.
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Is it poly ink? Jeez I hate printing with that stuff, it's like printing with bubble gum.
Nice! I refer to it as silly puddy... but I like bubblegum better....
If the shirt is pulling up after the flash, then maybe you're not letting it cool enough between flash and print?
Also, to save the ones you're not happy with, hit them with a quick heat press to flatten out the print. Just a little. Don't smash them.
I'm now suffering this same issue, and others...

I'm doing 100% poly Ball Hoodies, Blue on white on Black. These things retail at $75 bucks, so they're high stress. CUSTOMER SUPPLIED.

I ran a dozen or so last night and had a hell of a time. I kept having to spray, raise my off-contact etc. Didn't ruin any, but it took everything in me not to and WAY too long.

So I stopped and re-evaluated my situation...

I got the pallet-stick issue solved by using Flash-cure adhesive rather than the Web. But the "bubblegum" was still an issue... I raised the off contact to about 3/4 of an inch and creeped it down(printing on blanks) until I had a whole print. Then I did a full double push the whole length of the screen and got a good snap.

My next issue was with the blue on top. I'm using Rutland Poly white with a Rutland navy. I use the white as a backer and hit it twice drop the blue on top. In hindsight I should have set it up as a three colour. Backer, White, Blue. Because it ends up being a thick print, not unlike a transfer.

I'm having trouble with the blue sticking to the white. I get transfer at the end of the dryer... They seem to settle down after cooling, but I can't be running to the end of the dryer every four hoodies...

I'm going to try switching to Snap White, the hoodies are good quality and I see no dye migration so I think snap will be fine and way less like rubber... I also think the blue will adhere better? Back in the day, I'd put a little Varsol in the white, but I don't want to go there on these...

I'm taking most of Fathers day off from this, do some tidying up and burn some screens. Likely give it a go later in the wee hours.

Any advise would greatly be appreciated...
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While we're on the subject, can you use reducer in poly ink?
Polyester printing poses a few unique issues but none that can't be successfully overcome. If you're printing dark on light, dye migration isn't too big a problem. Proper cure care should be taken as with any screen printing. Temps should be measured as accurately as possible (donut probe ideally). Polyester tends to get hotter faster than cottons and blends.
Inks formulated specifically for polyester should be used. They tend to flash faster and cure at lower temperatures than standard plastisols to minimize dye migration which increases with higher temps.
The inks can be reduced to ease printing but not too much. Vigorous stirring prior to use will 'loosen' the ink. As the platens warm they'll print more easily. Tight screens, proper off contact, squeegee speed, angle and hardness are all critical. Also choosing the optimum mesh count is vitally important.
Quality of fabric is also something to be conscious of. All are not created equal so testing prior to running a job is a must. Migration can occur immediately or days later.
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I shot a white screen so I'm not doubling up on the underbase...
This is very common and the fix is pretty easy. Most of your polyester inks or other plastisol inks will have a post flash tack. CRC Food grade silicone spray. Spray this on the back of your screen. This will keep the hot ink from sticking to the screen and you can lay down your next color. Note. Only use the food grade silo one spray it will not stain your shirts or affect your print quality.
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