[Squirts]

to me, it seems like a bad idea to flash the ink and then do another pass. it doesn't have fibers to absorb into or latch onto, so it just kinda sits on the surface. just like how you're not supposed to pour wet concrete onto concrete that's already cured.

You are close ...you guys are dancing all around it but your close....

Your almost correct about it having nothing to latch onto but thats only if you flash past the gel stage if your actually curing the first print then the seond print will flake off quickly.....however if the first print is just gelled then the second applied over it the Plastic Molecules will still lock together during full curing.... Thats sounds like the most probable cause of the problem your having....
If not and you are not getting the first print to hot....then the most likely thing that will cause it to flake during washing is that final cure tempature wasnt reached.... Good Luck with it..... Chuck

 

[Squirts]

So when i print a white logo on black, I usually have to do two passes, but all of the image isnt completely filled, so I heat gun it and do like one more pass. This usually get's the whole image inked, but I guess it lays on kind of thick. but if I only do one pass to avoid over-inking, only partial amounts of the image will appear.

-omar

Sorry I missed this part on my first reply.... If Im reading it correct your saying its as if your running out of ink and the whole image isnt getting printed??? If that is Correct then you need to do a flood stroke when using the white ink.... with the squeege near vertical spread your ink over the image without pressing down...this is a flood stroke and insures that there will be ink over the entire image....then do your normal angle and pressure stroke... I usually follow it up with a cleanup stroke with no ink which makes sure the screen snaps completely off the shirt and ink doesnt stick to the screen....
Hope this helps with your problem and Good Luck....Chuck

 

[Squirts]

I thought too much ink would be deposited that way, but I obviously had no idea.

No The amount of ink is more deteremined by Mesh count, Squeege angle, pressure and thickness of the gasket created on the substrate side of the screen. With Mesh Count and gasket thickness being Major contributors. Hope This all helps in some way....and Good Luck..

 

[Squirts]

maybe you have a super aggressive hand- rawr! i dunno...

but my white ink is really rough too. whenever a customer asks for white ink, i try and get them to use the Union Extra Soft Lite Grey in place of it. for one, it's much softer, two- i personally think white ink is too harsh and played out on most colors. this makes it a little interesting. so far the results have been faaaabulous.

Another thing you can do is add a dab of blue to your white... Mix real real well and you wont even notice the blue in there it is barely barely tinted . The white becomes easier to work with and leaves a smoother softer print.... Experiment...play with it... and you'll find a combination that makes the print you want without the blue really being noticeable.... Good Luck...

 

[Squirts]

damn Chuck, another cool tip, thanks!

Well Thank You!! Hope it helps.... Chuck