what brand of plastisol ink are you using, what mesh screen. How many passes of the squeegee and when do you notice color change..after cure?
Problem with white plastisol ink on tri blend
Hello everyone, i am looking for some advice.
I recently started printing on some tri blends. I was doing red and grey shirts with black ink. Of course they turned out great. I then wanted to move on to other colors so i decided to try white ink on black tri blends. After i cured the shirts (flash dryer) the white ink started to turn a pinkish color.
I am trying to achieve a very soft hand on these tri blends so i am doing one pass and then curing. Is there anyway that i can avoid getting the pink color outcome? I have read that i could be over curing but as of now i only have a flash dryer and sometimes its hard to judge, as well as some points of the shirt being cured (330 degrees) while other parts aren't. I'm not getting an even cure i guess i could say.
Will my problems be solved by getting a conveyor dryer? Should i use water based ink instead? Or a different kind of plastisol ink?
Any help is appreciated. Thanks.
I recently started printing on some tri blends. I was doing red and grey shirts with black ink. Of course they turned out great. I then wanted to move on to other colors so i decided to try white ink on black tri blends. After i cured the shirts (flash dryer) the white ink started to turn a pinkish color.
I am trying to achieve a very soft hand on these tri blends so i am doing one pass and then curing. Is there anyway that i can avoid getting the pink color outcome? I have read that i could be over curing but as of now i only have a flash dryer and sometimes its hard to judge, as well as some points of the shirt being cured (330 degrees) while other parts aren't. I'm not getting an even cure i guess i could say.
Will my problems be solved by getting a conveyor dryer? Should i use water based ink instead? Or a different kind of plastisol ink?
Any help is appreciated. Thanks.
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i would use discharge ink white
from what you say you are trying to acheive. Very soft hand, nice bright white.
from what you say you are trying to acheive. Very soft hand, nice bright white.
you need to use a poly ink , the dye is migrating from the shirt to the ink. with blend you will need to use poly ink or low bleed.
awesome thanks guys, just got a sample of poly ink. Going to test it out and see how it works!
Try using the 7100 series from International Coatings. It will cure at 270F degrees and will stretch well on the triblend fabrics. The 275F cure will help keep the polyester from bleeding. The 7113 white is also LB and well suited for this application.
Logan , today I'm asking myself pretty much the same questions you posted in this thread. I know its a bit old but I'm wondering how things turned out for you? we're you able to achieve the light print you were after with just the poly ink?
I have had a lot of experience printing tri-blends, 50/50 and 100% Polyester. Keep in mind most of the garment manufacturers are buying fabric with little or no dye procedures to verify if the fabric is over dyed. To much dye in the fabric will cause dye migration regardless of the type of Poly ink you use. Using a very good quality poly ink help tremendously. Top Score works pretty well, One stroke worked good too.
Thanks David!
So if I understand correctly, you've had more success printing light, distressed prints onto triblends when you stick with quality poly inks?
I'm going to grab some this week and start some tests.
I've also gathered today, from other threads that it seems as though most people are printing regular plastisols on 50/50's. After reading what you wrote about dye limits I can only imagine printing on 50/50 would be kinda of hit and miss with bleeding or curing problems.
Any thoughts on this?
I haven't had a problem with curing 50/50's in the past but I see you have the experience.
Thanks man!
I'm sure I'll be back in here with more questions.
I will try to bring my test information back here! If I forget (new readers) open this thread back up and ask.
So if I understand correctly, you've had more success printing light, distressed prints onto triblends when you stick with quality poly inks?
I'm going to grab some this week and start some tests.
I've also gathered today, from other threads that it seems as though most people are printing regular plastisols on 50/50's. After reading what you wrote about dye limits I can only imagine printing on 50/50 would be kinda of hit and miss with bleeding or curing problems.
Any thoughts on this?
I haven't had a problem with curing 50/50's in the past but I see you have the experience.
Thanks man!
I'm sure I'll be back in here with more questions.
I will try to bring my test information back here! If I forget (new readers) open this thread back up and ask.
Yeah to be honest if we print anything with poly in it we use poly ink even the 50/50s, I've seen those change as much as 3 days after they were printed.
& hey!
welcome to the forums!
I see you have out posted me & you've only been here for days!
I've been around since 2008! -I'm starting to feel real guilty for not posting more! LOL
but thank you for joining & sharing information.
welcome to the forums!
I see you have out posted me & you've only been here for days!
I've been around since 2008! -I'm starting to feel real guilty for not posting more! LOL
but thank you for joining & sharing information.
My pleasure, I was on here for quite some time in the past under Robison Art, I'm full of screen print knowledge and none of my friends have any interest in it so I bore them to tears talking about it. This is a great avenue to talk with others who have a similar passion.
Very good point. I often feel as though I'm in this all by myself.
1 - 13 of 13 Posts
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