[phoenixalpha]

Hiya

Just trying to branch out from my usual mug & mousemat printing, and I thought I'd try these items :

Medium Ladies Shoulder Bag - Bags*|*BMS - Sublimation & Printer Cartridges & Edible Inks

Now having bought a few for trial purposes with my trusty heat press, I've run into an issue. When I print out and try and heatpress the bags I seem to be getting an awful lot of problems with not printing to the creases/seams of the bag (see following images)

[media]http://i107.photobucket.com/albums/m282/phoenixalphax/img1.jpg
[/media]

[media]http://i107.photobucket.com/albums/m282/phoenixalphax/img2.jpg[/media]

[media]http://i107.photobucket.com/albums/m282/phoenixalphax/img3.jpg[/media]

It just seems that I cant get a decent coverage over the seams and the white base is showing through. Does anyone else have a solution, as I'm sure these are popular items (well my nieces keep demanding bags... so I thought I'd start easily) so I thought someone might have come across this.

Thanks

 

[conde tech]

What paper and printer are you using? I pre-press my flaps for 40 secs at 400 degrees using heavy pressure. Let flap cool. Then press for 55 secs at 400 degrees using heavy pressure. If you are using an Epson printer, I suggest using the Jet Col high release paper.

 

[Conde_David]

I can only speak for our bags, heavy pressure
is the key. We must flatten the flap
completely.

For instructions, see my video
at YouTube - condesystems's Channel

 

[pmlegend]

You can also try another layer of heatproof rubber underneath the article so that the ridge pushes down into it. I have used that method on polo shirts when going near the buttons and it works a treat. Of course you also need to increase the pressure.

 

[phoenixalpha]

Ok have tried with 8 new flaps and got 3 (and a half) good images - what I would consider acceptable to sell anyway.... I think the points to a successful sub is :
1. Jetcol paper - the paper that I used for mugs just didnt cut the mustard.
2. Pressure - heaps of it, enough that I have to use both hands to lift the plate off.
3. Positioning - pretty much exactly in the hottest part of the press
and
4. Pre-pressing the item til it squeeks and is ENTIRELY FLAT. Takes longer to get it entirely flat than it does to do the sub!
anyhow I'm away to order some more.... the item isnt exactly 110% at the moment, still having a wee bit of white under the line of the seam at the top if I'm totally honest but that'll probably go with experience, trial and error and some clever design work....

 

[Conde_David]

Can you post a photo?
Jetcol paper will not work for mugs.
What papers do you have?

 

[phoenixalpha]

Can you post a photo?
Jetcol paper will not work for mugs.
What papers do you have?

I will post photos tomorrow morning. The paper I used for the mugs (and mouse mats) was a normal sub paper, but wouldnt work properly on the bags, hence the need to buy Jetcol as you recommended first. (thanks for that tip)

 

[phoenixalpha]

I'm uploading a couple of pictures of the bags (top left and top right), where the seam of the material meets the seam of the sublimation area and overlays.

As you can see there is a definite white line where the ink hasnt reached *under the seam*.

 

[Conde_David]

Thanks.
The flaps look poorly made.
I would see if your vendor can help.
I am happy to send you some of ours at no cost if
you will help with the shipping cost.

 

[phoenixalpha]

Thanks.
The flaps look poorly made.
I would see if your vendor can help.
I am happy to send you some of ours at no cost if
you will help with the shipping cost.

Thanks for that, if you could message me with details of the cost of shipping to the UK I would be happy to help out