Printing with Permaset white for the first time. Need Help.

1774 Views 8 Replies 3 Participants Last post by Hattr, May 17, 2014

littlewing830

Discussion Starter · May 15, 2014

Hi,

I am completely new to screen printing and have a few questions. Before I begin, I am using Permaset Supercover inks, I have a SpeedBall Squeegee, I had my design burned by a company on a 200 mesh screen. My first print will be with Permaset Supercover white on black fabric.

Questions-

1) Best way to cure? I have been reading a lot on this and I am completely confused about what my best option is because of all the pros and cons. It seems like a convertor dryer is the best option, but I cannot afford that. I have a heat gun and an iron, but it seems like that would be an uneven cure. I was leaning towards a flash dryer or heat press. Both seemed to have some cons. Could you help point me towards the right direction?

2) What are some good brands for heat presses or flash dryers when it comes to Permaset Supercovers?

3) If I make one pass through my screen using white, do I have to make another pass? If so, do I have to dry each layer of white? And, if I have to dry each layer of white, how do I get the design on the screen to match up with the design on the shirt again?

Thanks so much. I really appreciate it.

Save

1 - 9 of 9 Posts

jgabby

· #2 · May 15, 2014

200, not good for supercover, 120 - 110 thin thread, better.

With 200 greater chance to have drying ink in the screen.

With 120 or 110, the white will be best, and yes even better to print/flash/print to get a real solid and nice white.

Here is how do dry the ink
How to Cure Permaset Aqua

http://www.permaset.com.au/uploads/56580/ufiles/1303_Permaset_Heat_Curing_prod_info_Mar13.pdf

heat presses or flash dryers, were are you based ? USA or Europe ?

You can found great info about what brand to choose, no special recommandation for supercover, I use IR flash dryer and it work nicely, but I have a huge hot air dryer for curing.

A simple flash from vastex with hot airflow, can do the job.

See less See more

Save

Reactions: 1

Hattr

· #3 · May 15, 2014

I have been using super cover white and getting decent results through a 305 mesh with some effort. I am using a ranar forced air flash unit to cure my prints.

Save

Reactions: 1

littlewing830

Discussion Starter · #4 · May 15, 2014

Thanks a lot for the advice.

I will look into the Vastex forced air driers. Please let me know if I have this right, based on what I read, I should set the flash dryer to 700 F for 60- 90 seconds?

Secondly, I am still confused about a few things...

1) If I do print/flash/print, how do I get the design on my screen to match up with the design on my fabric again after flashing it?

2)Should I air dry the fabric before flashing it?

3) If I am doing print/flash/print how long should I cure each layer?

Sorry for if my questions are a bit ignorant. Screen printing is a lot more technical than it seems! You all are very kind to help.

See less See more

Save

Hattr

· #5 · May 15, 2014

Permaset has ink curing chart right on the container the ink comes in. you'll want to invest in an infrared thermometer so you can monitor ink temperature. Also to print flash print you should have a mechanism on your press so you can hit the same spot every time you bring your screen down.

Save

Reactions: 1

littlewing830

Discussion Starter · #6 · May 16, 2014

Hattr said:
I have been using super cover white and getting decent results through a 305 mesh with some effort. I am using a ranar forced air flash unit to cure my prints.

I'm looking into the ranar forted air flash and was wondering whether or not it made a difference getting the 110v or 220v? Thanks!

Save

Hattr

· #7 · May 16, 2014

I opted for the 120v version as I don't have 220 coming in. I will say if you get the 120 you might have to put in a new outlet like I did because it takes a different style plug than the standard 120 outlets you find in your house. Otherwise it works just fine. Its what I use and customers are happy with the prints.

Save

Reactions: 1

littlewing830

Discussion Starter · #8 · May 16, 2014

Hattr said:
I opted for the 120v version as I don't have 220 coming in. I will say if you get the 120 you might have to put in a new outlet like I did because it takes a different style plug than the standard 120 outlets you find in your house. Otherwise it works just fine. Its what I use and customers are happy with the prints.

Alright, thanks! two last things, can I cure it with the flash immediately after I print? Or should I let it air dry? And if I get a 16x16 flash and my design is bigger, can I still cure it properly by moving the flash around?

Save

Hattr

· #9 · May 17, 2014

You can cure it right off the press, just be careful, if the shirt folds you can get ink on parts of the shirt you don't want ink. And I don't see why not, I have a 16x16 and haven't made prints larger than that yet but you should be able to. Be mindful of where you have already cured ink cause eventhough waterbased isn't supposed to crack, if you over cure it out can crack.

Save

1 - 9 of 9 Posts

This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.

Top Contributors this Month