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You probably need to provide more information.

1. What is the dpi of the artwork when it is at the size you want to print it?
2. Are you printing with white ink? If so, are the two layers aligned up correctly?
3. Have you tried printing in unidirectional?
4. Can you post a picture of what the artwork looks like and what the artwork looks printed?

These answers will help people provide suggestion for resolving your problem.

Best wishes,

Mark
 

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I have a detailed graphic with fine letters to print. Printing it at 5 1/2" I lose all detail. I lose the lettering and the detail in the eagle. Can anyone help me with this please?
Generally, you need graphics that are about 300ppi, no anti-aliasing (on text or fine details). As Mark said, unidirectional and perhaps a finer dot with more interleaving (fine resolution), will give you a better chance of fine detail. Also a level platten and clean encoder strip will help. Sometimes if you are downsampling a graphic, you may also need to do this in software(like photoshop) so that you can add sharpening and contrast to bring out details. Post what you've got and what you're getting.

Ian
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Here is the original graphic and the one sample that I ran out today with a clean encoder strip and unidirectional. It looks better. Yesterday it was a bloch of grey. Letters were redone from yesterdays attempt as well. This is at 300 dpi as well.
When do I use bidirectional/unidirectional?
 

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Yes, I also noticed that when the background was removed in photoshop, the white was removed from the head. He has fixed that. I think the outer glow should be removed from the est. date.
Yeah, sometimes effects like shadows, glows, and highlights look great on the monitor but don't print like they look.

Hope this helps.
 

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Here is the original graphic and the one sample that I ran out today with a clean encoder strip and unidirectional. It looks better. Yesterday it was a bloch of grey. Letters were redone from yesterdays attempt as well. This is at 300 dpi as well.
When do I use bidirectional/unidirectional?
On something like this, I would increase the contrast... basically make the grey around the letters darker. When you print using any process, you are compressing the overall range of levels and colors than you can produce. You may not be able to tell the difference between an 10% and at 15% grey, so you have to accentuate certain transitions where detail needs to be conveyed.
Since the head "sprays" accross and back(it's faster) there is a chance that the dots may not allign exactly from the play in the belt, encoder strip and the shake of the machine. On uni-direction, this is addressed at the cost of printing speed.
 

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Here is the original graphic and the one sample that I ran out today with a clean encoder strip and unidirectional. It looks better. Yesterday it was a bloch of grey. Letters were redone from yesterdays attempt as well. This is at 300 dpi as well.
When do I use bidirectional/unidirectional?
Maybe it's the photo, but the white doesn't look opaque. Are you using medium underbase?
 

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Here's the newest attempt. Some of the problem was the graphic itself. I'm sorry, what are you referring to when you say underbase?
You are printing this with a DTG printer, shirt is pretreated, white underbase (white ink - first pass) , and color (CMYK - second pass) printed second, shirt cured in a heat press.

Sorry to have to ask.....
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
This design was provided to me by the customer done up and supposedly ready to print. It finally printed nicely. There was a misunderstanding on my part and I thought it was lacking alot of detail on my part. But the customer wanted the dark blue shirt to come thru in the little tiny cracks of the black feathers....... dark on dark... ok, I guess!
 
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