[MAYBTMRW]

Typically I break apart all colors for this type of print but there are a lot of thin lines, lettering, & detail. The last time I attempted leaving select colors "hollow" to be printed on separate screens I experienced some "blotching" on the edges where it tended to touch or overlap the 1st color. Hope this is making sense. So my question is with this attached image, would you print the White as a base? then the gray on top then Blue & Red on 'top' of the base? then black last obviously. Or would you recommend leaving all color inked area's hollow?

Thanks a TON Friends!

 

[MAYBTMRW]

Really? Nothin? Last time I tried this the black (which is so watery) blotched past the sharp edges on top of the white. Guess it'll be trial & error.

 

[lben]

Well, I'm new to screen printing. I've watched the videos and instructional DVDs. Are you gel curing your white first before you apply the colors? I know that black (because it's so watery) needs at least a 156 mesh screen or higher. I'm going over the DVDs now for 4 color process printing, but I want to be able to do it on darks as well, which will mean a white base coat. I will keep checking back to see if anyone who knows the answer to your question answers it.

 

[corradomatt]

It really depends on how you do your color seps and what software the artwork is in.....You don't need to underbase the black but I would consider using an underbase with the red and blue.

 

[MAYBTMRW]

It really depends on how you do your color seps and what software the artwork is in.....You don't need to underbase the black but I would consider using an underbase with the red and blue.

Matt,

Thanks, i do all of my design & seps in Adobe Illustrator for the most crisp edged results when printing positives through accurip. makes all the difference in the world from using raster programs such as Photoshop.
I typically would never under base below black but i didn't know if it may be easier to just print everything that's on the wiffle ball on top of the white.

 

[lben]

That would make sense to me but what do I know? I would think that would be a lot easier.

 

[Greatzky]

I would only underbase the black if you are using black that doesn't get too "shiny" when applied twice or applied over another color. The black I use is a jet black, but it's not a matte black so when you stroke twice or go over another color that part gets shiny. If you do have that type of ink you will have a shiny black over the white in the ball and a flat black for everything else.

that would be the only determining factor for me. For sake of the shirts looking more crisp and level i would just underbase color that is part of the inside of the ball.