Printing mugs - where to start?

6922 Views 26 Replies 14 Participants Last post by Brian, May 20, 2013

xXU4EAxX

Discussion Starter · Oct 15, 2008

Hi,

I going to start printing my owns mugs in the near future. From what I can gather, dye sub is the best method.

When looking to buy a printer, mugs, mug press etc, what should I be looking for?

Mug presses confuse me the most as there seems to be many different makes/model varying massively in price.

I am looking to start with around £200. Is there anything I should know?

Thanks in advance,

U4EA

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gothicaleigh

· #2 · Oct 15, 2008 (Edited)

U4EA said:
Hi,

I going to start printing my owns mugs in the near future. From what I can gather, dye sub is the best method.

When looking to buy a printer, mugs, mug press etc, what should I be looking for?

Mug presses confuse me the most as there seems to be many different makes/model varying massively in price.

I am looking to start with around £200. Is there anything I should know?

Thanks in advance,

U4EA

I would suggest picking up a C88+, an ArTainium inkset and ICC profile, and a simple mug wrap to start with. Unless you are planning on making large numbers of mugs, it's really hard to justify the cost of the mug press when a rubber mug wrap and a toaster oven will produce the same results for the occasional short run order.

I like Cactus mugs. They have a traditional coffee mug size and shape and the coating is very high quality.

*EDIT* Oh, and you will need a decent carrier paper to print onto. Personally I use Truepix Classic, but I don't believe the brand of paper makes a whole lot of difference when sublimating (it's only responsibility is to carry the ink from the printer to the substrate).

xXU4EAxX

Discussion Starter · #3 · Oct 15, 2008

Thank you very much for your response!

I am actually hoping to become maybe make a little money over here on the UK by going into printing, so I think I might buy a press.

Is there anything I should be looking for in a press? It's all a tad confusing for me when I see the different makes, models and prices out there!!!!

And is there a technical spec for a printer that I should be looking to adhere to?

conde tech

· #4 · Oct 15, 2008

An Epson printer is the way to go. I don't know if you can still get a C88 across the pond. But, the C88 has been replaced by the C120. You also have the option of as Epson 1400. It is a bigger printer than the the C120 and will allow you to print up to 13" x 19" paper should you decide to venture into sublimating large cutting boards. Besides the ceramic mugs the stainless travel mugs are pretty popular.

You have the choice between ArTainium inks and Sublijet inks. I use the ArTainium inks. When purcahsing inks you can either buy throw aay cartridges or you can purchase a bulk ink system. If you are going to be printing a large volume. I you arejust trying to get your feet wet, the the throw away cartridges would be a good route to go. However, if you are planning on doing a faif amount of prints, the bulk inks system would be a better route to go.

You will also need sublimation paper. In the U.S., the SPP8511, Accuplot, etc. paper. Do not use a high release paper.

Hope this helps.

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xXU4EAxX

Discussion Starter · #5 · Oct 15, 2008

Thank you for your help.

When looking to buy a press, is there anything I should look to avoid? Is it simply a case of you get what you pay for?

Would there be anything wrong with this as a starter?...

Sublimation Printing - Heat press machine for mugs on eBay, also, Heat Presses, Printing Graphic Arts, Business, Office Industrial (end time 16-Oct-08 00:20:57 BST)

BTW can I ask what you think the minimum you can start a mug printing service for? WOuld around $400-500 be accurate for printer, ink, a few blank mugs and a press?

Thanks again for your help. It easy to take forum help for granted but I do not. I always feel gratitude when someone takes their own time to help me.

Supporterstuff

· #6 · Oct 16, 2008

It is mainly true that you get what you pay for. You'll find many different opinions on cheap presses and the reason for that is that it is potluck. I seller bring a batch over and sells them over a period which can be okay then that seller gets another batch which are rubbish. Quality can fluctuate at the lower end.

You could possibly get started for a few hundred quid. It depends also on what you want to print.... full colour top to bottom in a cheap press would probably struggle where as a logo/slogan accross middle wouldn't be as testing of the press. Keep an eye out for second hand equipment which would have come from one of the known suppliers as you should have a decent standard.

Good Luck!

BigBear

· #7 · Oct 17, 2008

gothicaleigh said:
Personally I use Truepix Classic, but I don't believe the brand of paper makes a whole lot of difference when sublimating (it's only responsibility is to carry the ink from the printer to the substrate).

Just as an FYI, there is a bit more to it than one might think.

There is a coating on the paper and the composition of that affects what is called "out-gassing".

This does affect image quality.

gothicaleigh

· #8 · Oct 17, 2008

BigBear said:
Just as an FYI, there is a bit more to it than one might think.

There is a coating on the paper and the composition of that affects what is called "out-gassing".

This does affect image quality.

Sure, I can believe that. You don't want the inks to gas through the paper, which is why there are sub papers designed for this and why you can't just print to a sheet of copier paper.

...but is there a noticeable difference between different sub papers? Honestly, not with the ones that I have tried.

BigBear

· #9 · Oct 17, 2008

gothicaleigh said:
...but is there a noticeable difference between different sub papers? Honestly, not with the ones that I have tried.

There are different types of US made sublimation paper as well as imports from China and Korea. There really can be vast differences.

I can understand and agree with your sentiments. The main function of the paper is to give you the results best suited for your needs.

Relatively speaking, sublimation paper is very cheap and once you have found what works for you, that's all that is necessary.

As a supplier, we put every product through rigorous testing that most users would not find necessary. We do this to assure consistency of the current product and to test new products that may be better than what we offer.

No big deal, whatever floats a persons boat, fills our sails with wind too.

xXU4EAxX

Discussion Starter · #10 · Oct 21, 2008

Thanks guys.

Can I ask what it is about a printer that makes is uitable for this type of work?

I am asking because I am wanting to buy one with a scanner (simply because I don't have a scanner) and I am also interested in printing larger stuff - poster size etc.

Big problem for me is that I do not want to go over budget. Perhaps I should just start off with the Stylus C120 and a cheap scanner?

gothicaleigh

· #11 · Oct 21, 2008 (Edited)

U4EA said:
Can I ask what it is about a printer that makes is suitable for this type of work?

Piezo-electric print heads like Epson uses do not heat the ink when printing. That is why you will notice so many Epson recommendations in this section (that and they really are great printers).

You don't want the ink to heat and begin sublimating while you are printing.

U4EA said:
Big problem for me is that I do not want to go over budget. Perhaps I should just start off with the Stylus C120 and a cheap scanner?

Really depends upon what you plan to do with it. If your sole interest is mugs or the occasional left chest shirt logo, then a C120 may be all that you ever need. Personally, I found the 8.5"x11" size to be rather limiting rather quickly (no large shirt designs, no 12" tiles, etc).

The other thing to consider is the amount of ink you will be using. The larger professional Epsons manage ink use better than the small desktop units and you save a good deal of cash in the long run by purchasing ink in larger amounts (bigger cartridges are cheaper per mL than smaller cartridges). While there are bulk systems available for the smaller units, they are more prone to clogging and impurities than the sealed carts.

Spending a bit more initially could save you large amounts of cash down the road.

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xXU4EAxX

Discussion Starter · #12 · Oct 21, 2008

Thanks.

I guess I will have to look at my bank account and give it some thought.

The thing is that I am wanting to move into printing to make some £ as I am not earning large amounts right now (although I am about to be promoted) so I am thinking about just splashing out on something bigger but it'll leave me cash-strapped. However, if I buy a smaller set up, I may find it inadequate if I try to upscale.

thanhpham

· #13 · Nov 9, 2008

hi friends,

iam also very new to mugs printing. Could you help me on those:

1. Can Durra cotton or other kinds of lazer transfer paper be used for mugs printing or it must be sub paper?

2. Can regular mugs be printed or they must be coated with a kind of chemical to attract the transfer?

3. Compare sub papers made in US and China/ Korea, which one is more cost-efficient? (still ensure good quality but at lower cost)

Thanks a lot

Thanh

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martinwoods

· #14 · Nov 9, 2008

You need sublimation inks and papers for sublimating onto mugs and they have to have a special coating so a mug from Walmart or the dollar store is not going to work.

Good luck

clayboyrat

· #15 · Dec 9, 2008 (Edited)

I can't see you starting with 400 0r 500 USD. The ArTainiun ink alone will cost you 300USD for cartridges for the Epson C88 and bulk ink starts at 125.00 a bottle. The bigger the printer the more the cartridges cost. I myself am just starting to get into mugs. I bought bulk inks and refillable cartridges. I found the refillable cartridges on E-Bay for 18.00. Thought about a ciss but after reading up on them it seems you will have clogs if you dont print every other day. Though I could have the same troubles with the Cartridges. I don't know never found anything information on them yet. Am also going the wrap and toaster oven route.

xXU4EAxX

Discussion Starter · #16 · Dec 22, 2009

Can I ask if there is any real difference between ArTanium and Rotech inks? Is one significantly better than than the other? I ask because it seems that I can get a Rotech set up slightly cheaper than one for ArTanium.

xXU4EAxX

Discussion Starter · #17 · Dec 22, 2009

Can anyone help?

BillyV

· #18 · Dec 24, 2009

Here you go, this should answer your questions...

Sawgrass Technologies - Desktop Sublimation

Reactions: 1

xXU4EAxX

Discussion Starter · #19 · Jan 1, 2010

Another quick question...

Regarding the Epson C120/D120... I notice that some sources list "Epson Stylus C120" and others "Epson Stylus Photo C120". Are these different machines? From what I can, it's one and the same thing?

BigBear

· #20 · Jan 2, 2010

It is the same thing.

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