T-Shirt Forums banner
1 - 20 of 26 Posts

· Registered
Joined
·
55 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·

· Registered
Joined
·
1,393 Posts
Windex original has ammonia in it which you do not want to use. Try the one with out ammonia which I believe is called crystal rain. Doubt anything will unclog the white ink once its dry. Its like trying to break free of cement but never hurts to try something new. Let us know how it works out for you.
 

· Registered
Joined
·
708 Posts
Actually, ammonia is the go-to solvent to unclog Epson printheads running regular inks (a lot of people think that alcohol is the answer but it's not) but since we're talking DTG inks I don't know how well it would work. You would have to contact the ink manufacturer to find out what the best solvent to break it down with would be, but there aren't many solvents that won't break the printhead (i.e. if they say "only acetone or lacquer thinner will break it down once it's hardened" then the cure is worse than the problem). Won't hurt to try ammonia, but for an ultrasonic you're better off starting with a gentle cleaner or even just water before trying ammonia. People with badly clogged printers (usually DuraBrites left unused for months) leave ammonia based cleaning carts in their Epsons for days.
 

· Registered
Joined
·
1,393 Posts
Epson printheads running regular inks
What do you mean by regular inks? Are you talking about Epson inks? Most common ink for direct to garment is the Dupont ink which is much more dense. Especially the white ink.

I've had bad experiences myself using windex with ammonia and yes even straight alcohol and better experiences using windex without ammonia in it. Your best solution is going to be the dupont cleaning solution, which is sold as HD Cleaning solution, that is made to break up its own ink. But it can be a bit pricey.
 

· Registered
Joined
·
868 Posts
ok nobody! i will try it anyway! i'm going to use an one year old printhead which is clogged as hell...

will see
Ultrasonic cleaners will damage the function of the nozzles ability to jet. If you did manage to unclogg a nozzle the chances are it would not work.

The best way is to purge your head or the whole lines with cleaner on a regular basis to avoid excessive build up of the Ti02 in the bends and loop sections.
 

· Registered
Joined
·
5,861 Posts
ok nobody! i will try it anyway! i'm going to use an one year old printhead which is clogged as hell...

will see


If you are trying to test to see if an ultrasonic cleaner will work, using an old printhead that has been clogged for over a year will not give you an answer. A printhead that has sat that long with ink in it will not be salvageable using any method.

Harry

_
 

· Registered
Joined
·
2,768 Posts
I agree with most of the above. Windex original and 50/50 distilled water, warm not hot. Use in 5 sec burst. Longer than that and the ultra sonic cleaner will destroy the head. I make a soaking tub with a plastic sandwich container, cut a hole in the lid just big enough for the head itself to go thru. fill with the warm windex cleaning solution. sit inside the ultrasonic cleaner that has a few inches of water in it. then use 5 sec burst just a few times every half hour or so, change cleaning fluid as required. then with clean solution in tube place tubing on the spike end, nipple, and with a large syringe suck the fluid from the tub thru the head. do not push!!!!, so this until all channels are pulling fluid clear and about the same pressure. Then if you feel you must, fill syringe with fluid and reverse the action, pushing. pick a channel you are certain is clear. when you start pushing it will dribble a bit then start spraying is different directions, then change to a curtain straight down, do this over a tray of fluid so you can easily see the spray pattern. If you run into clogged channels do not try to force, you will push the plate loose on the bottom of the print head it is just basicly glued to the bottom, laminated. If this happens it is non repairable, not that I know of anyway. If while pushing you get dribbles out of multiple channels the head is delaminated. Do not get the electronics / connectors wet if you do allow to dry for a few days after blowing clear with air. I know a long time but you will burn cables, fry a mother board and a head if you do not. By the way ammonia is a strong but effective cleaner, One of the major mfg of DTGs (BQ) suggest a flushing of entire ink system top to bottom every so often with ammonia. But you must follow up with a rinse and flush and not allow it soak for a long period of time. Straight Alcohol is probably the worst thing you can use. A homemade cleaner of 10% Ethylene Glycol and 10% propylene glycol and 80% distilled water (by weight) makes a good cleaner and is very similar to some mfg cleaners. The glycols will not dry out the printhead, in fact they will help keep it moist. Cleaning a print head is a very long and detailed task, I have had it take as long as 3 days, I generally do not do anything until it has soaked for about 3 hours. Do not clean in the machine as you are likely to get a connector wet. Good Luck
 

· Registered
Joined
·
130 Posts
The best "cleaning solution" I have tested is a green liquid-can't remember the name of it-but dried
ink on the edges would literally fall off.

"cleaning solution" is what is used to suspend the inks themselves in-mostly Glycol (anti-freeze).
This is to keep the head from overheating while firing ink through it.
And, it is not a very effective cleaning agent. Hot, distilled water for the lines/bulk system
cleans 10 times better. BUT, do NOT run a printhead with water-it WILL blow itself out.

You can try water in the printhead out of the printer-use the syringe with WARM distilled water,
and push/pull. Why push/pull? The dried chunks will not go out the firing end of a head.
Get a mason jar cap, set the printhead on that with your liquid, and "pull" out any deposits.
ALWAYS finish up by pushing all the water out with cleaning solutions.

One of the things on my to-do list at US Screen was to work on clogged heads (although yours is
most likely shot after sitting this long) by experimenting with a radiator flush solution for car radiators.
But, I never got the chance to when they went out of business.

But just remember-water WILL kill a printhead if it's installed and there is some in there and you print.
As will any liquid of any type on the electronic parts/ribbon cables. Instant bad head.

Michael
 

· Registered
Joined
·
2,768 Posts
The best "cleaning solution" I have tested is a green liquid-can't remember the name of it-but dried
ink on the edges would literally fall off.

"cleaning solution" is what is used to suspend the inks themselves in-mostly Glycol (anti-freeze).
This is to keep the head from overheating while firing ink through it.
And, it is not a very effective cleaning agent. Hot, distilled water for the lines/bulk system
cleans 10 times better. BUT, do NOT run a printhead with water-it WILL blow itself out.

You can try water in the printhead out of the printer-use the syringe with WARM distilled water,
and push/pull. Why push/pull? The dried chunks will not go out the firing end of a head.
Get a mason jar cap, set the printhead on that with your liquid, and "pull" out any deposits.
ALWAYS finish up by pushing all the water out with cleaning solutions.

One of the things on my to-do list at US Screen was to work on clogged heads (although yours is
most likely shot after sitting this long) by experimenting with a radiator flush solution for car radiators.
But, I never got the chance to when they went out of business.

But just remember-water WILL kill a printhead if it's installed and there is some in there and you print.
As will any liquid of any type on the electronic parts/ribbon cables. Instant bad head.

Michael
Might want to check the msds for the US Screen cleaning solution. Again I caution against a push, in respect to trying to blow the holes clean in the bottom of the printhead, maybe a slight push followed by a pull. Diethylene Glycol is used to suspend inks, only in some brands. Ethylene Gycol is used as anti-freeze. The is a significant difference between some of these. However point taken.
 

· Registered
Joined
·
1,393 Posts
The best "cleaning solution" I have tested is a green liquid-can't remember the name of it-but dried
ink on the edges would literally fall off.
I remember that green solution. I may have that name somewhere. I remember testing it when testing the main ingredient for FastColor. Was a pretty good solution. It is actually sold somewhere on the internet. Will have to search for it.
 

· Registered
Joined
·
708 Posts
Right. Is there any easy way to make something like this yourself? It may be cheaper than ink but just the shipping charge would be enough to make me want to make something on my own. I would be wary of just mixing antifreeze and distilled water and putting it in the printer! But if that actually works, it would be great.
 

· Registered
Joined
·
130 Posts
It's an idea. Karl Steele from US Screen did it all the time. I worked next to him (I'm MR Blazer, Karl is the T2 MAN) and he always had them buzzing next to me. Did they work? Yes and no. If a head is shot, it's shot. Period. Can some "half shot" heads be brought back to life? Most likely not. Can you try? Yes you can. I cover this in my book about Blazers and it applies to EVERY DTG printer out there.
 

· Registered
Joined
·
708 Posts
Over on another forum people have started using propylene glycol (USP food/pharmaceutical grade) as a base fluid both for "blank carts" and for cleaning. I just ordered a quart from Amazon myself. You may be able to get it at your local pharmacy, but it might A) be expensive and B) be denied, since it's also a base fluid for injectable drugs (even though it has a million other uses from fog fluid to hand cream to e-cigarettes)
 
1 - 20 of 26 Posts
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top