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Print is not Shiny some Stains on Job

2K views 15 replies 7 participants last post by  Amw 
#1 ·
Dear Friends
I have problem with sublimating ,
I am working on 2D case aluminum cases ,
after press for 180C and 45 or 50 seconds
I have some stains on job , on dark colors it show very well
and my job is not shiny
Please help what to do

I have tried back up paper on
top and bottom
Top only
Bottom Only
without backup
changed temperature to 170 , 190 , 200
Time to 35 , 45 , 60

But not works

Please give me your Ideas
 
#2 ·
Are you printing on the correct side of the transfer paper?

What is the humidity level? You may need to pre-heat your back up paper to get rid of moisture.

Time seems short for aluminum, but we don't do phone cases.
 
#4 ·
Dear Friends I have problem with sublimating , I am working on 2D case aluminum cases , after press for 180C and 45 or 50 seconds I have some stains on job , on dark colors it show very well and my job is not shiny Please help what to do

I have tried back up paper on top and bottom
Top only
Bottom Only
without backup
changed temperature to 170 , 190 , 200
Time to 35 , 45 , 60

But not works

Please give me your Ideas
Your stains may be the "orange peel" effect, which means your coating is really thin and you're pressing too hard. Use Very Light pressure.

Aluminum case plates with thin coatings should use:
385 degrees (190C-195C degrees), 50 seconds, Very Light pressure. NOT medium or heavy pressure.

I'm not sure what you mean by, your job is not shiny. Maybe you got the satin gloss aluminum insert?

Show us pictures to help you better.
 
#7 · (Edited)
That looks like the "orange peel" effect, caused by thin coating and too much pressure. But even at low pressure, that "stain" can show on images that have A LOT of black in it because the coating is thin. Some people suggest using a paper towel under the scratch paper to help, but I've heard that doesn't help much with dark images. I've even tried the paper towel method and there was no difference using a dark image.

If you don't want that to show, you will need to not use images that have a lot of black in them OR get an aluminum plate with a thicker coating, like ChromaLuxe.

When I use images that have a lot of black, I try and use ChromaLuxe aluminum plates. When the images don't have a lot of black I use the DynaSub (or similar) plates. Less black in image and the less you will see the "orange peel" effect.
 
#11 ·
We press quite a bit of ally and apart from the nice thick jewellery box inserts we use the thin sheet.
and keyrings etc.
we use 190c for 60 , pre-heat the bottom plate, and metal face down with a cover sheet, medium pressure.
you have what we call 'misting' and we found it is due to overheating the paper, we used to get it a lot on slates when heating through the paper. (we now go through the slate which takes longer but gets the shine with out the mist)
There was only one time that we couldn't get rid of the mist and that was when we purchased some sheet from a well known supplier and I went berserk when every single piece one after the other was covered in this, fine almost plastic melted on effect. (we had removed the protective plastic) and as I was pressing half A4 signs we used up the supply pretty quick.
I rang to complain, because previous stuff I'd bought was okay, and all they could suggest is that I change my timing and or paper. Well, as we had gone up lighter and cooler and quicker already I wasn't going to start mucking about with other papers as well! Because all this would achieve is me left scrapping stock and wasting time (and you know I dont muck about, I just press print).
It may be long winded M but perhaps you have got inserts that are cheap rubbish ally being passed off as the real deal. We dont buy ally from that supplier anymore.
 
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