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Print is not Shiny some Stains on Job

1668 Views 15 Replies 7 Participants Last post by  Amw
Dear Friends
I have problem with sublimating ,
I am working on 2D case aluminum cases ,
after press for 180C and 45 or 50 seconds
I have some stains on job , on dark colors it show very well
and my job is not shiny
Please help what to do

I have tried back up paper on
top and bottom
Top only
Bottom Only
without backup
changed temperature to 170 , 190 , 200
Time to 35 , 45 , 60

But not works

Please give me your Ideas
1 - 16 of 16 Posts
Are you printing on the correct side of the transfer paper?

What is the humidity level? You may need to pre-heat your back up paper to get rid of moisture.

Time seems short for aluminum, but we don't do phone cases.
Are you printing on the correct side of the transfer paper?

What is the humidity level? You may need to pre-heat your back up paper to get rid of moisture.

Time seems short for aluminum, but we don't do phone cases.
Thanks for reply
Yes it is correct side ,
Humidity level is 10-15%
I have pre heated backup papers
this problem is during all process and the first job and last is same issue , so pre heating is not problem . I think
Dear Friends I have problem with sublimating , I am working on 2D case aluminum cases , after press for 180C and 45 or 50 seconds I have some stains on job , on dark colors it show very well and my job is not shiny Please help what to do

I have tried back up paper on top and bottom
Top only
Bottom Only
without backup
changed temperature to 170 , 190 , 200
Time to 35 , 45 , 60

But not works

Please give me your Ideas
Your stains may be the "orange peel" effect, which means your coating is really thin and you're pressing too hard. Use Very Light pressure.

Aluminum case plates with thin coatings should use:
385 degrees (190C-195C degrees), 50 seconds, Very Light pressure. NOT medium or heavy pressure.

I'm not sure what you mean by, your job is not shiny. Maybe you got the satin gloss aluminum insert?

Show us pictures to help you better.
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Your stains may be the "orange peel" effect, which means your coating is really thin and you're pressing too hard. Use Very Light pressure.

Aluminum case plates with thin coatings should use:
385 degrees (190C-195C degrees), 50 seconds, Very Light pressure. NOT medium or heavy pressure.

I'm not sure what you mean by, your job is not shiny. Maybe you got the satin gloss aluminum insert?

Show us pictures to help you better.


Dear Friend ,
Thank you , I have tried your suggestion situation , But still have problem
Please refer to the picture , you can see what I mean , Excuse me for light reflex but as I want show the problem it is needed

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No Idea ?
Friends I have this issue on 90% of aluminum plates , but 10% is good , I don't know why , process is same for all , but the results are not
No Idea ?
Friends I have this issue on 90% of aluminum plates , but 10% is good , I don't know why , process is same for all , but the results are not
That looks like the "orange peel" effect, caused by thin coating and too much pressure. But even at low pressure, that "stain" can show on images that have A LOT of black in it because the coating is thin. Some people suggest using a paper towel under the scratch paper to help, but I've heard that doesn't help much with dark images. I've even tried the paper towel method and there was no difference using a dark image.

If you don't want that to show, you will need to not use images that have a lot of black in them OR get an aluminum plate with a thicker coating, like ChromaLuxe.

When I use images that have a lot of black, I try and use ChromaLuxe aluminum plates. When the images don't have a lot of black I use the DynaSub (or similar) plates. Less black in image and the less you will see the "orange peel" effect.
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No Idea ?
Friends I have this issue on 90% of aluminum plates , but 10% is good , I don't know why , process is same for all , but the results are not
I agree with the above post about pressure.
We print a ton of dyesub aluminum both chromaluxe, the cheap stuff, and everything in between.

TEMP: we use 385F
TIME: 47 seconds for anything smaller then about 12x24"
We pre heat the bottom platen at the beginning of a run, just press the blow out paper you will be using for the job.
PRESSURE: The top platen should just "sit" on top of the lower platen and require more or less no force to close the handle.

This is on gloss gold, we haven't rounded the corners or added adhesive to the backs yet. This is pretty cheap metal, comes from China.
The blacks come out great on it though, which can be hard to get on some cheap metal.

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I agree with the above post about pressure.
We print a ton of dyesub aluminum both chromaluxe, the cheap stuff, and everything in between.
Just wanted to suggest a few things for ya (in the images you posted), to make it look a little more professional (constructive criticism).

First Sign:
-I believe it should be "patient's" with an apostrophe
-Should have a comma after referrals,

Second Sign:
-Should be "check-in" with a dash and then a period at the end.

Third Sign:
-Should be "walk-in"
-And looks like there's an extra space after Monday that should be closed up. Monday -Thursday

Hope that helps make it look a little more professional. Sometimes my 14+yrs of proofread experience, makes me involuntary catch things like that lol. We do those type of signs as well, being that my nurse wife has connections to hospitals and clinics. :)
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Just wanted to suggest a few things for ya (in the images you posted), to make it look a little more professional (constructive criticism).

First Sign:
-I believe it should be "patient's" with an apostrophe
-Should have a comma after referrals,

Second Sign:
-Should be "check-in" with a dash and then a period at the end.

Third Sign:
-Should be "walk-in"
-And looks like there's an extra space after Monday that should be closed up. Monday -Thursday

Hope that helps make it look a little more professional. Sometimes my 14+yrs of proofread experience, makes me involuntary catch things like that lol. We do those type of signs as well, being that my nurse wife has connections to hospitals and clinics. :)
I hear what your saying but we were asked to make them exactly like this. This is for a wholesale client, they provide the art...we just make it.

If we were doing this for our own client then we would have done the layout out more like that.
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We press quite a bit of ally and apart from the nice thick jewellery box inserts we use the thin sheet.
and keyrings etc.
we use 190c for 60 , pre-heat the bottom plate, and metal face down with a cover sheet, medium pressure.
you have what we call 'misting' and we found it is due to overheating the paper, we used to get it a lot on slates when heating through the paper. (we now go through the slate which takes longer but gets the shine with out the mist)
There was only one time that we couldn't get rid of the mist and that was when we purchased some sheet from a well known supplier and I went berserk when every single piece one after the other was covered in this, fine almost plastic melted on effect. (we had removed the protective plastic) and as I was pressing half A4 signs we used up the supply pretty quick.
I rang to complain, because previous stuff I'd bought was okay, and all they could suggest is that I change my timing and or paper. Well, as we had gone up lighter and cooler and quicker already I wasn't going to start mucking about with other papers as well! Because all this would achieve is me left scrapping stock and wasting time (and you know I dont muck about, I just press print).
It may be long winded M but perhaps you have got inserts that are cheap rubbish ally being passed off as the real deal. We dont buy ally from that supplier anymore.
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That looks like the "orange peel" effect, caused by thin coating and too much pressure. But even at low pressure, that "stain" can show on images that have A LOT of black in it because the coating is thin. Some people suggest using a paper towel under the scratch paper to help, but I've heard that doesn't help much with dark images. I've even tried the paper towel method and there was no difference using a dark image.

If you don't want that to show, you will need to not use images that have a lot of black in them OR get an aluminum plate with a thicker coating, like ChromaLuxe.

When I use images that have a lot of black, I try and use ChromaLuxe aluminum plates. When the images don't have a lot of black I use the DynaSub (or similar) plates. Less black in image and the less you will see the "orange peel" effect.
Thank you for your suggestions ,
But as I have no other choice to buying plates , maybe it is better to crying :D
Thank you for your suggestions ,
But as I have no other choice to buying plates , maybe it is better to crying :D
Where are you located? Have you tried doing the DIY coating solution?

There is DigiCoat (in the UK) that you spray, cure in oven, then press.

Maybe you can add an extra layer of coating? Go to their website and ask them if you can apply DigiCoat on top of the original coating of the plates. A little extra cost may benefit, if it means getting more sales for the 'dark' images.
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I hear what your saying but we were asked to make them exactly like this. This is for a wholesale client, they provide the art...we just make it.

If we were doing this for our own client then we would have done the layout out more like that.
Well there's the difference between you and me. If I see an obvious or even possible error, I check first before running headlong to production and fobbing off the blame on someone else.

It's those little things that will elevate you beyond the hackers.
I hear what your saying but we were asked to make them exactly like this. This is for a wholesale client, they provide the art...we just make it.

If we were doing this for our own client then we would have done the layout out more like that.
Well there's the difference between you and me. If I see an obvious or even possible error, I check first before running headlong to production and fobbing off the blame on someone else.

It's those little things that will elevate you beyond the hackers.
I usually send a watermarked proof for the buyer to ok before I produce anything. I also point out what I think may be errors and they usually end up agreeing with me.
Well there's the difference between you and me. If I see an obvious or even possible error, I check first before running headlong to production and fobbing off the blame on someone else.

It's those little things that will elevate you beyond the hackers.

So I think your confused, we did ask if they wanted to resend the art.
So even after your wholesale client asked you to print it that way...you then go and change it anyway...that is an interesting way to run things. But to each their own.

You quoted me...and in that quote the first sentence is "we were asked to make it this way". So your just choosing to ignore that part i guess.
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