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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Here's a combo of FastInk pre-treat questions:

I'm doing great with the pretreat for dark shirts w/ white undercoat. Here's what I've gathered from this site and it seems to be working for me: Lightly mist with water / nice even coat of pretreat for dark shirts / brush down the fibers / heat press lightly @ 330 for 10 secs with quilan parchment / remove the parchment and heat press again for 10 secs / print the image / heat press lightly @ 300 for 180 secs with the silicon parchment to cure the ink.

So what are the variables for using FastColor and Fastbright: Water spray before the pretreat? Times to press the pretreat? Use Quilan parchment over pretreat when pressing? Final print/ink cure times and which if any parchment?

Mostly the reason I ask is because the directions on the back of the bottles give a little different directions than what is said here (and in fact, are different than some of the videos on the US Screen web sites). What works for you using todays pretreats.

As always- BIG thanks!!!

Thomas @ Ka-Blam
 

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Hi Thomas,
I've never seen that video. Also I've never heard of anyone doing such a short cure time for pre-treatment on dark shirts.

For the FastColor, we do not spray with water, we just do a 10 second pre-press the shirt to get it warm and lay the fibers down as much as possible. We spray on the FastColor (it doesn't need as much as the pre-treat for darks), then we press for 10-15 seconds then print.
FastColor works great.
 

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Adam the way I read the post above was that they are pressing 2 times of 10 seconds which is 20 seconds total. This is what I do and it works great. One 10 second press with the quilan paper and One 10 second press without it.

As far as the fast color pretreat. I just spray a light layer of fast color and brush it down. I then dry the pretreat the same as I do for the dark pretreat. Its not really necessary to do the misting of distilled water with it, as that is done to keep the dark shirt from staining, but the fast color does not leave any color on the shirt.
 

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I pretreat for upto 40seconds each shirt. This is because I put the shirt into the heatpress, and then go-off to pre-treat anoher t-shirt while that is curing. No problems with 40-50seconds for me.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Thanks yall...
When using the fast color pretreat (light/white shirts) cure the print 120 seconds @ 330 degrees (FastInk3)?

What about the times/settings (water and such) using FastBright (light colored shirts USING an undercoat)?

:)

Thomas @ Ka-Blam
 

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How do you guys cure white shirts? Our white shirts keep turning yellow which I assume means the pre-treatment is getting burnt.

I do 10 seconds for the pretreatment and 1 minute to cure the ink. It burns some point during the curing. This is how I was instructed to do it in training but we can't seem to get white shirts to not stain/burn.
 

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have you checked your heat press to make sure it is regulating the right temp? sometimes they might be off by a few degrees. I would try doing 325 degrees and see if that works better. That is what temp I use.
 

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Have you tested you haet press for temp. Some of them can be out by over 50degress. Th echeaper ones have hot spots and the thermostates are not + or - 3 but + or - 10 or even more. Use a heat teater gun or prob to test the platen heat on the press. It sounds to me like oyur heat press is over heating or the Thermostate is out.
 

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It doesnt matter if it is brand new, any heat press can have a problem with the heating element :) I would check it just to make sure :) It is true that each heat press can vary a certain amount of degrees, that was why I suggested lowering your temp a little and see how that works. I would also do a wash test on a garment to make sure the cure is good. Hope this helps :)
 

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If you look at harbor frieght they have a heat temp gun that you can use, or they have digital heat strips that work well also.
 

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Buy a heat testing gun or prob try to use infa red rather than a touch porb thta is a round shape as you will not get all the prob on the platen. Some probs are desinged to be pushed into things needle like shape and you should not use one of these as you will not et full surface coverage of the prob. You want a heat tester for a flat enviroment, and when you test test a few areas as all you need is one spot hotter that the rest. It is very commin for elements to have a hot spot in them.
 
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