[reelguitars]

I have done a 4 color separation for spot colors with T Seps and they ended up being the same colors as CMYK process inks. I've output to halftone dots and have all transparencies ready. I was going to use 230 screens. Will it work? Thanks, David

 

[TYGERON]

It might work. It might not work.

Are you actually using process inks or inks that are the same colors? Process inks are generally transparent and need an underbase on dark(er) fabrics.

As far as the mesh count, 230 can work if you are confident in exposing higher counts and the appropriate line count.

 

[Celtic]

Yeah, I'm with Tygeron......it may work, but if you ran it as a simulated process, then, I'm gonna go with you need to stick with standard inks, not the CMYK ones. I think that you may experience some color shifts that you don't want.
They just work differently as do the sepping processes.
You could run a CMYK sep and compare too.

 

[Preston]

The only standard ink color that can be substituted for one of the CMY process colors (not counting black) is lemon yellow. You will be able to get close with this. Other than that you will not get any acceptable match in your printing. It stands to reason that you would have the same issues going the other way around. Also for best results with process I would suggest you use 305 screens, 60 lpi, round or ellipse dots, 22.5 degree on all plates.

 

[reelguitars]

Thanks for the replies. I'm gonna stick with doing things the right way. Though, right now I'm wallowing in self pity because I'm having problems printing the simplist 2 color (red and yellow on a black shirt) design on my Atlas 6/4. Oh well, maybe one day the light will come on. Thanks for all your help. David

 

[TYGERON]

Thanks for the replies. I'm gonna stick with doing things the right way. Though, right now I'm wallowing in self pity because I'm having problems printing the simplist 2 color (red and yellow on a black shirt) design on my Atlas 6/4. Oh well, maybe one day the light will come on. Thanks for all your help. David

Haa-haaa! Don't make it less fun than it's supposed to be! You have to jump in somewhere but the thing I always suggest is doing a LOT of reading and learning before even coating a screen. Developing a sound understanding of every aspect of the process, why and how it's done, is critical. Makes doing it an easier transition. It's not hard. Just a lot of elements that have to go together correctly. And any one of which can blow up the whole thing. There is no one way nor best way to do anything. For process 305 mesh isn't definitively the "best". Depends on the graphic, the feel and look you want/require, your ability to properly prepare, burn and print higher counts and a host of other factors. Process inks have unique characteristics. Combining with "standard" inks can work but they're not going to blend, mix or cover like their process counterparts, even with yellow being a weaker pigment.
The light probably won't just come on. Step back, relax, get a comprehensive video series and some books. Take a few weeks to study and absorb all the information until you have a pretty seamless mental understanding. Then go and flip that switch by coming back and doing as you go through the process again. You'll find out how much you love it.

 

[tman1]

I am curious why you did a four color process separation for a spot color design. Sometimes people get confused on the other routines like Simulated Process color. Frankly, even though that routine finds a lot of colors and is designed to give a "simulated/fake" process look, you can easily use it for spot color. Run the 9-Color Simulated routine and only keep the two colors you need. Use the Tone Curve to make them 100% (if you want them 100%). If you need them 100% in solid areas and gray scale in others then you may not need to do much in the way of adjustment. Send me a file to look at and I will give you my advice. Remember, support is free to T-Seps users. Don't be afraid to simply give a call to 1/888-801-1561 or email scott[USER=100786]@TBIZ[/USER]network.com.

 

[reelguitars]

Hey Scott...I originally did a 9 color simulated process separation and as it turned out, the predominate colors were the same as process ink...that's why I decided to do it. I was just wondering if the halftones would end up working because of the difference in thickness of spot and process inks. Well, I jumped in this morning and printed with cmyk on 230 mesh (I used 158 for the black) and the shirts look great. I'm still learning, but I'm doing ok. Thanks again for all your help. I've just scratched the surface with T Seps but I'm getting a bigger shovel...lol. David