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Hey guys, so I normally print with water-based inks but have a job for 100% polyester windbreakers. I decided to go the route of plastisol inks on this one. I bought some of the Poly One 741 Poly White ink. I burned a 110 mesh, and the design is a really bold typeset that is 12”wide (basically a jumbo print). I stirred (as best as I could that is) the ink, and got it into the screen, but for the life of me, cannot get the ink to pass through the screen. I can barely get the squeegee to even pull the ink across the screen, little less push it through the mesh to the garment (paper for now). I know you can add a reducer, but obviously using the poly white so that I avoid the dye migration. Any advice? Aside from going to the gym!
 

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I bought some of the Poly One 741 Poly White ink. I burned a 110 mesh
but for the life of me, cannot get the ink to pass through the screen
I'd use mesh 60 for the base coat and and 110 with reducer for the overprint.

I hope those windbreakers are not the softshell type and don't contain elastane, because the dyes on these will go through low bleed ink.
 

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I usually get a paddle or big hole drill and stir it up with the electric drill, also it needs warming, put the container in a container of hot water for a while, this with the drill mix will break it down enough to print
Total waste of time, unless the ink is new or has been sitting unused for months.
A few flood-print strokes over a test pellon will mix and warm up the ink on the screen.

Read the ink instructions, and in this case ignore the typo.
This ink is for mesh 60 to 110, and the latter is obviously the maximum and the hardest to print.
The 160/43T is a typo. This ink is way too tick for 160 mesh without a lot of reducer.
The equivalent of 43T is 110 by the way... not 160. It's obviously a typo.

push print being easier with this type of thick ink.
Push print is always easier and the only correct way, when using a straight edge squeegee on a manual press.
The why is a lengthy subject.
 
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