[DanEggiman]

I'm very curious about rutland chino inks. I understand there is a base and then you can add pigments into them like a waterbased pigment system? Is it basically curable reducer? How about the chino opaque base, is it also made to add pigments to it? Can I not get the same soft and tonal effect using highly curable reducer reduced plastisol? Would you use opaque chino base as an underbase on a dark garment? Any experience or knowledge would be very helpful. Thanks in advance

 

[ptown]

I was searching for this information myself and ended up just calling Rutland. Here's what the tech told me:

Unlike some other curable reducers, Chino is fully curable and can be added at any ratio to non-phthalate plastisol and will cure fine whilst giving the ink a much softer hand. It also can even be used by itself to achieve a 'tone on tone' look.

Opacity wise, there is little difference btwn the regular chino and the chino opaque base. The regular is cheaper of course.

Far as colors go, if you mix in pigment and print it w/o an underbase it will give the garment a 'vintage' or 'washed out' look. I would imagine it being barely visible on dark garments?

I just ordered a gallon to start experimenting with. I got the regular stuff. I will print some samples and report back.

hope this helps!

 

[~Hopi Girl~]

I was searching for this information myself and ended up just calling Rutland. Here's what the tech told me:

Unlike some other curable reducers, Chino is fully curable and can be added at any ratio to non-phthalate plastisol and will cure fine whilst giving the ink a much softer hand. It also can even be used by itself to achieve a 'tone on tone' look.

Opacity wise, there is little difference btwn the regular chino and the chino opaque base. The regular is cheaper of course.

Far as colors go, if you mix in pigment and print it w/o an underbase it will give the garment a 'vintage' or 'washed out' look. I would imagine it being barely visible on dark garments?

I just ordered a gallon to start experimenting with. I got the regular stuff. I will print some samples and report back.

hope this helps!

Have you posted your samples? How is it going so far?

 

[~Hopi Girl~]

Are you using chino inks? Just learned about them and I'm interested to know how it works and if it's working as it should?

A couple of questions
*Chino vs regular plastisol
*Chino vs plastisol with added curable reducer

I'd appreciate your response . TY

 

[ptown]

Wow I totally forgot about this. TY for reminding me.

I bought something called Chino Base which is a reducer but is 100% curable and can be mixed w/ plastisol ink, pigments or can be used by itself.

I mixed it w/ my white ink at about 15% by weight and still got great opacity. I also printed it by itself which made the print look like the shirt was wet in that area achieving a kind of tone on tone look. I've attached some pics but my shop has terrible lighting so they look a little weird.

Also, keep in mind when printing the chino by itself you can't really tell how dark it will be until it's flashed or cured.

If you have any technical questions I would recommend calling Rutland directly. Anyway, hope this helps.

 

[~Hopi Girl~]

Wow I totally forgot about this. TY for reminding me.

I bought something called Chino Base which is a reducer but is 100% curable and can be mixed w/ plastisol ink, pigments or can be used by itself.

I mixed it w/ my white ink at about 15% by volume and still got great opacity. I also printed it by itself which made the print look like the shirt was wet in that area achieving a kind of tone on tone look. I've attached some pics but my shop has terrible lighting so they look a little weird.

Also, keep in mind when printing the chino by itself you can't really tell how dark it will be until it's flashed or cured.

If you have any technical questions I would recommend calling Rutland directly. Anyway, hope this helps.
View attachment 276247

View attachment 276252
View attachment 276253

Did you flash the white?

 

[ptown]

Did you flash the white?

yes. print > flash > flattening screen > print. 230 mesh Rutland StreetFighter white ink w/ approx 10% chino mixed in by weight. Print is lightweight but still opaque.