[Twinge]

I would wager a guess and say that it has to do with the inks the companies use; e.g. different companies use different inks, and have different "formulas" for what works for hot or cold transfers, how well they look on what colors, etc. I don't know for certain, though.

I'll note that the plastisol transfers that I've used from SMG are hot-peel and don't leave ink on the paper. They look fine on dark shirts, though we have had some problems with cracking after several (40+) washes, so I'll have to look at the adhesive crystal stuff and see if that works better.

 

[T-BOT]

Thanks Twinge.

Again, thank you very much for all your help everyone.

 

[htt117]

Just curious. Is the stretch test based on a real-world need? I don't see customers ever needing to stretch the t-shirts like that. Most plastisol will have some give to it if cured correctly (enough give for normal and abnormal wear and mis sizing). Even on ribbed fabrics.



Most of the thinner ribs tees I have done are tank tops for young women. These shirts are not designed to be worn as "relaxed fit". Here in the northwest, the only sizes sold seem to be small and medium, no matter what size the woman normally wears. The illustration may have been a bit drastic, but ribbed material will be significantly stretched when worn.

We tend toward embroidery on these for the most part. It doesn't have the stretching failures, but it costs more. For the bachelorette party, one-time-use items, we do some transfers. They look OK but you can't expect them to hold up for long.

Jim

 

[jdr8271]

They look OK but you can't expect them to hold up for long.

Actually, you should be able to expect a plasticol transfer for to hold up for a pretty long time. Nothing is forever, but it should last pretty darn near that if done properly.

 

[Solmu]

For the bachelorette party, one-time-use items, we do some transfers. They look OK but you can't expect them to hold up for long.

Actually, you should be able to expect a plasticol transfer for to hold up for a pretty long time.

I think he'd be talking about digital transfers rather than plastisol transfers, since it'd be a short print-run short turn around item.

 

[htt117]

You are right. We are a traditional store front and we do these "custom" tees as a novelty. Most are digital prints using a C88+ epson printer, Transfer Jet II paper and Durabrite inks. A couple of washings on a baby ribbed tee will be too much, but that is not a problem for this particular use.

Even the Plastisol numbers have failed much sooner on ribbed materials than on traditional ring spun or jersey knit materials. These are the hot peel stock numbers from transfer express.

We tend to swallow our pride and offer a full range of products depending on our customers quality requirements (Read that as How much does he want to pay) We do digital picture transfers for the lowest end customers who want a novelty shirt (40th birthday, Anniversary party any special event sometimes even for family reunions, shirts for a scholl event or trade fair, church youth group outing etc.) We will go to First Edition or Transfer Express for a full color photo transfer if the need is for a longer lasting product. We can digitize and embroider something that is meant to be a display or more permanent gift. I guess it really comes down to matching customer's desires and wallets.

Changing topics slightly, Do the cold peel and hot peel materials perform differently when applied to mesh athletic jerseys. The hot peel numbers I use are prone to sinking into the holes or even adhering to the opposite side material with reversible jerseys. I put a teflon sheet inside to minimize this, but they still look less than perfect because of the hole pattern. Any suggestions?

I have aslo seen some "transfer" from the first number. I do one side of a reversible jersey. Turn it inside out and apply the second number. If the first number is left against the face of the shirt, I get some ink transfer onto that surface. If I increase time or temperature on the first number, the hole pattern is worse. Is this commen or am I missing something?

Jim

 

[T-BOT]

You are right. We are a traditional store front and we do these "custom" tees as a novelty. Most are digital prints using a C88+ epson printer, Transfer Jet II paper and Durabrite inks. A couple of washings on a baby ribbed tee will be too much, but that is not a problem for this particular use.

Even the Plastisol numbers have failed much sooner on ribbed materials than on traditional ring spun or jersey knit materials. These are the hot peel stock numbers from transfer express.

We tend to swallow our pride and offer a full range of products depending on our customers quality requirements (Read that as How much does he want to pay) We do digital picture transfers for the lowest end customers who want a novelty shirt (40th birthday, Anniversary party any special event sometimes even for family reunions, shirts for a scholl event or trade fair, church youth group outing etc.) We will go to First Edition or Transfer Express for a full color photo transfer if the need is for a longer lasting product. We can digitize and embroider something that is meant to be a display or more permanent gift. I guess it really comes down to matching customer's desires and wallets.

Changing topics slightly, Do the cold peel and hot peel materials perform differently when applied to mesh athletic jerseys. The hot peel numbers I use are prone to sinking into the holes or even adhering to the opposite side material with reversible jerseys. I put a teflon sheet inside to minimize this, but they still look less than perfect because of the hole pattern. Any suggestions?

I have aslo seen some "transfer" from the first number. I do one side of a reversible jersey. Turn it inside out and apply the second number. If the first number is left against the face of the shirt, I get some ink transfer onto that surface. If I increase time or temperature on the first number, the hole pattern is worse. Is this commen or am I missing something?

Jim

Yes, you are way OFF topic.
for mesh jerseys you need to use VINYL or other material transfer numbers etc.
Perhaps start a new thread so that some members can give you some tips etc..

This topic is not about digital transfers. Lets not get confused.

As for the stretch factor of plastisol transfers have a look at the photos early on posted.

Thanks for the user end input though.

Thanks everyone.

 

[htt117]

Title of the Thread is "Plastisol Transfers - Why Cold PeeL"

My question was about any difference in hot peel and cold peel Plastisol on polyester mesh jerseys. Directly on topic.

Your comment - as many of your previous ones have been - reflects a lack of experience. The jerseys I numbered came from a local soccer team. Their logo and names were imprinted at the manufacturer using hot peel type transfers. I have handled at least 6 other teams polyester or blend mesh jerseys that have been printed with differrent logos by at least three different companies, all using Plastisol transfers.

One of the major problems in any forum is people passing out information when they do not have the background to back-up their advice. Please contact Rodney if you have further comments about my posts and I will contact him about yours.

Jim

 

[Twinge]

As far as the topic does go, though: I was expecting to see more of a difference in hot peel and cold peel as well. I'll toss out another theory as well that just came to mind - maybe hot peel didn't USED to work very well on darker shirts, so you'd want to go with cold peel for them in the past; but now ink technologies have advanced and they can do the job just as well? Don't know obviously, just a theory.

 

[T-BOT]

As far as the topic does go, though: I was expecting to see more of a difference in hot peel and cold peel as well. I'll toss out another theory as well that just came to mind - maybe hot peel didn't USED to work very well on darker shirts, so you'd want to go with cold peel for them in the past; but now ink technologies have advanced and they can do the job just as well? Don't know obviously, just a theory.

yep, you're on to something there.

During the 90's and earlier (more or less), to print plastisol transfers on dark shirts you had to use COLD PEEL.

It could be something to do with the Inks/Equip./Technique etc.
But really, Hot peel for darks are used a lot our days "2006", I cant figure out why there are so few here that do use them, like Dave from MotoSkinGraphix uses them, you can make 200 shirts in 1/4 of the time. Most Brands I know use them with glue layer. NOT with the crystals glue "salt and pepper" style.

Thanks for your Idea Twinge.

 

[MotoskinGraphix]

I get hot peel, simulated process(litho matt finish) and a couple cold peel all stock transfers. Favorite is hot peel for black or white shirts which is all we sell. The instructions do say a shorter dwell time on black shirts may produce a more opaque finish. All my dwell times for cold or hot are 8-12 seconds around 380 degrees. Those simulated process transfers from X-it are very nice. I wonder what they cost to produce and how the art needs to be rendered?

I think most sports team jerseys are done with vinyl. I think transfer express may offer both vinyl and plastisol for numbers but not sure.

 

[T-BOT]

Those simulated process transfers from X-it are very nice. I wonder what they cost to produce and how the art needs to be rendered?

Not sure how X-It makes them (I dont think Clarke will share that with you, may be, he is a nice Guy Canadian too).

David, are you talking about FULL color or SPOT color designs to print on all FABRIC colors ? (hot peel w/NO glitter inks.)

I may have an answer for you but need to know more...

 

[T-BOT]

hey, just realized another good reason to use COLD peel over HOT peel is when you are making collage type shirts. Yep, when you print on design over another. Buy doing cold peel with teflon, this will always leave the underneath design in good condition.

 

[MotoskinGraphix]

Not sure how X-It makes them (I dont think Clarke will share that with you, may be, he is a nice Guy Canadian too).

David, are you talking about FULL color or SPOT color designs to print on all FABRIC colors ? (hot peel w/NO glitter inks.)

I may have an answer for you but need to know more...

I am assuming they are matt finish litho transfers. they are full color and not spot. They have color blends and fine detail and shadows. Car transfers with some silly girl on them with a silly saying like high society or street demon...car show folks like them. The quality is outstanding on these hot peel transfers.

 

[T-BOT]

I am assuming they are matt finish litho transfers. they are full color and not spot. They have color blends and fine detail and shadows. Car transfers with some silly girl on them with a silly saying like high society or street demon...car show folks like them. The quality is outstanding on these hot peel transfers.

if I were to guess, it can may be done as a 4 color process with a little PUFF in the mix. Just a wild guess.

I will go dig up the X-it catalog and have a look it.

 

[MotoskinGraphix]

if I were to guess, it can may be done as a 4 color process with a little PUFF in the mix. Just a wild guess.

I will go dig up the X-it catalog and have a look it.

No puff...4 color simulated process matt finish litho transfers me thinks.

 

[true genius]

How the heck do you get hot splits to look so crisp on dark colors? Mine sure don't look like this on darks? The shirt color really comes through.

First - Edition actually tells one (me anyway) that you need to double print the ink to get a crisper lighter ink color on darks. I don't really find that this makes too much of a difference for the extra cost and the ink actually bleeds a little. They charge an additional 1/2 price per color for their minimum order for double hot split. I do get a decent print on them. There price is also better than most, however, and their service is supurb.

They also do not offer any adhesive for hot splits, only cold peels. I personally don't like the feel of cold peel, though the colors are much more crisp.

T-Bot, would you PM me to give me info on where you got your hot splits - they look super crisp. I'd like the info to shop the prices.

Thanks!

 

[T-BOT]

How the heck do you get hot splits to look so crisp on dark colors? Mine sure don't look like this on darks? The shirt color really comes through.

T-Bot, would you PM me to give me info on where you got your hot splits - they look super crisp. I'd like the info to shop the prices.

Thanks!

hi Tammy, will pm some info.

I find that every custom transfers job is different. One needs to account for various factors involved depending on what the client needs. The finish, on what garment they will be printing on and the Artwork detail.

So in order to give the client what they need and to ensure that quality and durability is great.... sometimes it will cost a little more but well worth it. Since you will be able to sleep at night knowing your prints are well done.

This can be achieved with Hot peel transfers that are quick and easy to apply.

 

[treadhead]

hi Tammy, will pm some info.

I find that every custom transfers job is different. One needs to account for various factors involved depending on what the client needs. The finish, on what garment they will be printing on and the Artwork detail.

So in order to give the client what they need and to ensure that quality and durability is great.... sometimes it will cost a little more but well worth it. Since you will be able to sleep at night knowing your prints are well done.

This can be achieved with Hot peel transfers that are quick and easy to apply.

Lucy....I would like some information as well on suppliers of hot peel opaque plastisol transfers.

We picked up a job that was previoiusly done by a screenprinter and need to simiulate as close as possible the look and feel. It will be a 4 color (red, orange, yellow, white) on a black Gildan Ultra shirt. I too am struggling with hot peel vs. cold peel from First Edition.

Also, there is another job coming up with 7 colors (including white) on a black shirt.

Thanks for any information you can share....

 

[T-BOT]

Lucy....I would like some information as well on suppliers of hot peel opaque plastisol transfers.

We picked up a job that was previoiusly done by a screenprinter and need to simiulate as close as possible the look and feel. It will be a 4 color (red, orange, yellow, white) on a black Gildan Ultra shirt. I too am struggling with hot peel vs. cold peel from First Edition.

Also, there is another job coming up with 7 colors (including white) on a black shirt.

Thanks for any information you can share....

sure thing.

I think FE should also be able to do these jobs.