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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
sorry if this has been asked before here. Can someone explain WHY ?

Why do you buy/use COLD Peel plastisol transfers to print on dark shirts ?

Why would some transfer manufacturers or screen printers make the plastisol transfers COLD peel ONLY, to apply on dark shirts ? is it because of the equipment, inks etc. they use ?

Why NOT use HOT peel transfers to apply on dark shirts ?

What makes a HOT peel or COLD peel plastisol transfer different when printing them on dark shirts.

Curious to hear your views. Transfer users, Transfer makers and Screen printers.

thanks.



..after intensive research/learning on the this board, these are my final questions relating to plastisol Transfers.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
MotoskinGraphix said:
I agree...opaque hot peels work everytime for me. The only coldpeel transfer I have is a highly glossy butterfly with shimmering inks in it. The transfer looks great and I can only surmise its because of the inks and gloss that makes it a cold peel. I dont think if I were ordering custom transfer I would want cold peel normally.
thanks David.

I wish I could get a little more feedback from other users, transfer makers and screen printers on the board. :(
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
badalou said:
On one test I did with a cold peel plastisol transfer I noticed that if I tried to pull it up before it cooled down some of the ink would be pulled up with it. But when I waited for them to cool the inks stayed. I think they harden a bit so that is why they work. I think the inks are thicker than say a hot split transfer.
Thanks for the User End Input Lou.

When you do the COLD peel, did you find that there was Ink left on the Transfer paper after application ?

I have tested this it out with Glitter Inks where COLD peel is a must and I have concluded that for a perfect application results you need to rub with a cloth as it cools. Have you thry this with your Cold Peel Plastisol Transfers ?

With Hot Split/Peel Transfers there is no difference as thickness goes. They can be made just as Opque as Cold peel.

Also, have you tried the Thick COLD peel pastisol transfers you are using (with or with out the so called Crystals) printed on Stretchy Fabric ? when you stretch the fabric, Do they Crack ?

I appreciated the feed back Lou.
Almost finished here, with my research to do with plastisol.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
badalou said:
Yes ther was paint still on the paper. have not tried to do the strechy test as I saw your test and going to stay away from ribbed material with that. did not do anything with the rub a cloth thing.
i found that if you rub it as it cools you get more ink OFF the tansfer paper and on the shirt. It also makes the finished printed Transfer feel smoother and even, not bumpy. With COLD peel plastisol transfers.

Try it out Lou. "The Rub a Dub" :)

Any feed back from transfer makers or screen printers that also make Plastisol Transfers ?
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
jdr8271 said:
I can comment on first-editions transfers, because that is what I use. The cold peel with adhesive crystals is the way to go. The adhesive makes the ink stick the shirt perfectly every time.

With hot peel, some of the ink is left on the paper, and is trickier to use than cold peel. With hot peel, the exact temp is more inportant. The adhesive makes it less of a science. It just works perfectly every time. for .10 its well worth the extra money, to avoid aggrivation.
Thanks for the user end input Jon.

I have tested Hot Split/Peel Plastisol transfers and no ink is left on the paper and they too work every time. ( i can send you some of the samples i tryed if you want).

I guess my question is, why would companies like firstchoice and other transfer makers make them as Cold Peel and Not Hot Peel plastisol transfers ? is it the inks, equip., technique ?????

Since I know nothing about these "Crystals" beyond what David said and others.
Do the crystals keep the transfer from Cracking when Stretched on RIB fabrics ?

Below are the samples of Hot Split/Peel Plastisol Transfers I tested.

copyright sickonsin.com





some technical input from transfer makers or screen printers would be greatly appreciated since i cant understand why some many make them as COLD peel and NOT hot peel. (i know wildside makes them).
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Rodney said:
It could be that you're the only plastisol transfer printer on the forums, Lucy :)

I guess a different question could be, why do some make them HOT peel and NOT cold peel. Does it really matter as long as the end transfer works?
I guess you are right, no it dosent matter they basically look and feel the same, accept that hot split/peel apply alot quicker (4 times faster than cold peel) and hold up with the Stretch test.

If the process involved is the same (since no one has posted otherwise), why not make them as Hot Split/Peel Plastisol Transfers ?

may be someone will come along and explain why. :confused:
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 · (Edited)
Agotlib said:
I am currently working with first-edition and was told if I want to print on dark shirts, they will need to make my transfers into a cold peel; otherwise the colors won't come through.

I hope this helps.

Aimee
Aimee, thanks for the user end feedback.
Your comment is one of the reasons why I started this thread.
I honestly dont know why some companies would tell you that:

"print on dark shirts, they will need to make my transfers into a cold peel; otherwise the colors won't come through"

You can get the same end result with hot peel transfer, have a look at my test example early on the thread.

so im begining to wonder why Cold Peel Plastisol transfers even exist.

One reason may be that in the event you need to print a 14x19 transfer as a 2 step on a 15x15 press, cold peel would make it easier then hot peel.

but beyond that, i have found no other explanation yet for the use of COLD peel transfers.

Are they cheaper to make ?
 

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Discussion Starter · #27 ·
htt117 said:
You are right. We are a traditional store front and we do these "custom" tees as a novelty. Most are digital prints using a C88+ epson printer, Transfer Jet II paper and Durabrite inks. A couple of washings on a baby ribbed tee will be too much, but that is not a problem for this particular use.

Even the Plastisol numbers have failed much sooner on ribbed materials than on traditional ring spun or jersey knit materials. These are the hot peel stock numbers from transfer express.

We tend to swallow our pride and offer a full range of products depending on our customers quality requirements (Read that as How much does he want to pay) We do digital picture transfers for the lowest end customers who want a novelty shirt (40th birthday, Anniversary party any special event sometimes even for family reunions, shirts for a scholl event or trade fair, church youth group outing etc.) We will go to First Edition or Transfer Express for a full color photo transfer if the need is for a longer lasting product. We can digitize and embroider something that is meant to be a display or more permanent gift. I guess it really comes down to matching customer's desires and wallets.

Changing topics slightly, Do the cold peel and hot peel materials perform differently when applied to mesh athletic jerseys. The hot peel numbers I use are prone to sinking into the holes or even adhering to the opposite side material with reversible jerseys. I put a teflon sheet inside to minimize this, but they still look less than perfect because of the hole pattern. Any suggestions?

I have aslo seen some "transfer" from the first number. I do one side of a reversible jersey. Turn it inside out and apply the second number. If the first number is left against the face of the shirt, I get some ink transfer onto that surface. If I increase time or temperature on the first number, the hole pattern is worse. Is this commen or am I missing something?

Jim
Yes, you are way OFF topic. :)
for mesh jerseys you need to use VINYL or other material transfer numbers etc.
Perhaps start a new thread so that some members can give you some tips etc..

This topic is not about digital transfers. Lets not get confused.

As for the stretch factor of plastisol transfers have a look at the photos early on posted.

Thanks for the user end input though.

Thanks everyone. :D
 

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Discussion Starter · #30 ·
Twinge said:
As far as the topic does go, though: I was expecting to see more of a difference in hot peel and cold peel as well. I'll toss out another theory as well that just came to mind - maybe hot peel didn't USED to work very well on darker shirts, so you'd want to go with cold peel for them in the past; but now ink technologies have advanced and they can do the job just as well? Don't know obviously, just a theory.
yep, you're on to something there. :)

During the 90's and earlier (more or less), to print plastisol transfers on dark shirts you had to use COLD PEEL.

It could be something to do with the Inks/Equip./Technique etc.
But really, Hot peel for darks are used a lot our days "2006", I cant figure out why there are so few here that do use them, like Dave from MotoSkinGraphix uses them, you can make 200 shirts in 1/4 of the time. Most Brands I know use them with glue layer. NOT with the crystals glue "salt and pepper" style.

Thanks for your Idea Twinge. :D
 

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Discussion Starter · #32 ·
MotoskinGraphix said:
Those simulated process transfers from X-it are very nice. I wonder what they cost to produce and how the art needs to be rendered?
Not sure how X-It makes them (I dont think Clarke will share that with you, may be, he is a nice Guy :) Canadian too).

David, are you talking about FULL color or SPOT color designs to print on all FABRIC colors ? (hot peel w/NO glitter inks.)

I may have an answer for you but need to know more...
 

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Discussion Starter · #33 ·
hey, just realized another good reason to use COLD peel over HOT peel is when you are making collage type shirts. Yep, when you print on design over another. Buy doing cold peel with teflon, this will always leave the underneath design in good condition. ;)
 

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Discussion Starter · #35 · (Edited)
MotoskinGraphix said:
I am assuming they are matt finish litho transfers. they are full color and not spot. They have color blends and fine detail and shadows. Car transfers with some silly girl on them with a silly saying like high society or street demon...car show folks like them. The quality is outstanding on these hot peel transfers.
if I were to guess, it can may be done as a 4 color process with a little PUFF in the mix. Just a wild guess. :D

I will go dig up the X-it catalog and have a look it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #38 ·
true genius said:
How the heck do you get hot splits to look so crisp on dark colors? Mine sure don't look like this on darks? The shirt color really comes through.

T-Bot, would you PM me to give me info on where you got your hot splits - they look super crisp. I'd like the info to shop the prices.

Thanks!
hi Tammy, will pm some info.

I find that every custom transfers job is different. One needs to account for various factors involved depending on what the client needs. The finish, on what garment they will be printing on and the Artwork detail.

So in order to give the client what they need and to ensure that quality and durability is great.... sometimes it will cost a little more but well worth it. Since you will be able to sleep at night knowing your prints are well done.

This can be achieved with Hot peel transfers that are quick and easy to apply.
 

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Lucy....I would like some information as well on suppliers of hot peel opaque plastisol transfers.

We picked up a job :D that was previoiusly done by a screenprinter and need to simiulate as close as possible the look and feel. It will be a 4 color (red, orange, yellow, white) on a black Gildan Ultra shirt. I too am struggling with hot peel vs. cold peel from First Edition.

Also, there is another job :D coming up with 7 colors (including white) on a black shirt.

Thanks for any information you can share....
sure thing.

I think FE should also be able to do these jobs.
 

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These companys have the money experience and equipment to push the new developments in plastisol production. They arent worried about the 25pc one color order...they have moved beyond that customer.

It's NOT really the Low 25 pc. order. It's the time and effort it takes to create Plastisol Transfers that are really CUSTOM made for the client's needs.

to do with HoT PEEL/SPlit transfers.
 

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Discussion Starter · #47 ·
perfect explenation on plastisol transfers couldnt said it better myself bottom line hot peel is the only way too goo
glad you agree Hot Peels are do bomb. :)

but

I do see COLD PEELS as safe way to sell plastisol transfer to the home user for sure.

I don't Know of 1 single major brand that uses COLD PEEL our days. It's all Hot Peel and has been for a few years now.

Anyone making Hot Peel 4 color process Glitter transfers or are they still all COLD Peel ?
 

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Discussion Starter · #49 · (Edited)
I have a question. .....on most of the image, the ends seem like if you pick and scratch at them, they start to peel off. How can i solve this problem?

SOMEONE PLEASE HELP
Hi Matt,

off the top, Im not an expert in the transfer biz cause i've been out of it for a little while now (the guy i did worked for retired...long story.)

but, i don't think much more can be done now in your case. Considering you are using the correct application settings etc...and they continue to rub off as you scratch them with your thumb.

it sounds like the transfers you had made are just your *basic* plastisol transfers. Nothing wrong with that but it really depends on what finish look and quality you are aiming at. :)

Perhaps try some altermatives, like re-press with a teflon sheet. That should get the loose ends of your graphic transfer to stick.


footnote:

Most transfers makers can offer you the basic or other types that usually involve some additional work. Like adding the good old *GLUE* :) or expert screen burning for high detail graphics (thin lines etc.)

just to name a few companies that for sure can do this work are, people like Airwaves, The wildside, and yes transfer express and others can achieve great transfers that are quick and easy to apply and ARE 5 star quality.

here is a sample of a small 3" wide logo with a thin tiny black line outline that prints on all color shirts and perfect every time.

[media]http://www.spot98.net/custom/img/1-RED-STRIPE-500.jpg[/media]

another, but its larger :

[media]http://www.spot98.net/custom/img/1-SPOT98HD-500.jpg[/media]



to make a long post short, i'm sorry to say but the transfers you had done are not the best quality.


...sorry :eek::)

give the re-press a try with the teflon for a fix... it should work. But you will need to COLD PEEL with the teflon. Let me warn you that re-pressing with teflon will (in most cases) make the finished printed graphic plastisol transfer more *glossy*...shinny like....until you wash it


god bless.



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