Plastisol on Baby Blue 100% Polyester

I have not done any poly jobs yet, but I can tell you what I've read:

You are going to have to either under base it with a type of poly white ink, or add a flex agent to the black. I think if you just use normal black you'll have bleed issues, plus it'll probably crack when stretched. Polyester is stretchy.

SnBshirts said:

I have not done any poly jobs yet, but I can tell you what I've read:

You are going to have to either under base it with a type of poly white ink, or add a flex agent to the black. I think if you just use normal black you'll have bleed issues, plus it'll probably crack when stretched. Polyester is stretchy.

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Yeah, I could have reviewed some older posts a little more before asking the question. I see there's a few people out there that believe black plastisol is fine on its own.
These particular shirts are not being used for anything athletic. I should have just passed on the order as I don't have any of these additives and hate doing underbases unless absolutely necessary. At this point I guess I'm hoping they'll be ok.

There is a lot of valuable info in this forum, but there is also a lot of opinions. Kinda hard to weed through some of it.

I'd print it with ink out the bucket.. I'd even reduce the ink some if you have any curable reducer. The problem with dye-migration changes the ink color (bleeding into the ink), lighter color inks will take on the dye from the shirts (white ink turning pinkish on red shirts). I've never had a problem with black ink on polyester..

Troll said:

I'd print it with ink out the bucket.. I'd even reduce the ink some if you have any curable reducer. The problem with dye-migration changes the ink color (bleeding into the ink), lighter color inks will take on the dye from the shirts (white ink turning pinkish on red shirts). I've never had a problem with black ink on polyester..

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But will regular plastisol work? With no flex? I'm curious to know, got a lot of people asking about dry fit shirts, most want white ink though, but if black is that easy, maybe I can curve my prices and talk them out of the white.

You should have no problem printing black right out of the bucket on polyester. Also instead of using white on polyester we try to use lighter grays and they don't tend to bleed when printed on the polyester garments. If you add the flex agent it will help prevent cracking of the garments are stretched a lot. Rutland also has a poly base with their color booster system that does ok on poly for most ink colors.

Thanks guys for the help

For white ink on dri-fit (wicking shirts) we use Poly-White by Rutland. It is a low bleed white and we print thru a 160 mesh. It is a little thicker and prints good on dri-fit. 110 mesh tends to make the print a little heavier on wicking shirts as they are lightweight shirts - 3-4 ounces. It works good as a base for colors on polyester too..

INKJESS said:

Can I get away with my basic Batman Black plastisol on a light baby blue colored 100% poly shirts?

My first 100% poly job. Anything I should be concerned with?

Thanks a lot for any advice you have.

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yes def...this is what we use to print with on poly ts...u dont need to underbase black ink on baby blue ts so dont worry bout that...if u dont want the print to be too thick or go thru the fabric then use the highest mesh screen u got and dont push too hard with the squegee...even if it takes a 2 layers with the flash...batman black is runny so dont pust too hard or u will get bleed out on the print...hint use less than a 45 degree angle with squegeee and press as lightly as u can to get the ink thru whatever mesh u are using but maintain make sure u maintain less than 45 and then adjust your pressure and number of swipes checking your print after each swipe on the first print. dont stress that should be an easy job and print fine with minimal problems depending upon the image. good luck later dude