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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi Everyone..

So recently I printed a 2 color job on a black ( white and red ). A 10 inch white circle with a 8 inch red circle in the middle and on top of the white.

white - flash
white - flash
red

The print comes out nice and bright then into the dryer it goes. once its cured i do the stretch test and passes. I then do a wash test and it passes but noticed some of the red has rubbed on the white ( pink look on white areas ). Am I not fully curing it? I even did multiple samples at different temps and times, even scorching the ink and still have the same result.
Im racking my brain and any input or advice is greatly appreciated.
 

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As long as plastisol hadn’t gotten too hot or freeze it should be good. Sounds like the red isn’t bonding to the white. Many reasons this can happen. 1 over flashing the white. 2 that red a lot of red on top of a lot white. In these cases if I’m going to P/F/P the white I will use a lowere screen 166 or a 205. Then over print the red with a 205. I use rollers and high tension mesh so for statics that would be 156-180 for the white and 180 for the red. Red contains a lot of pigment and can result in crocking which I believe may be going on. Use of a extender (Clear pastisol ink) not a reducer will help. A reducer will also help if working with thicker inks.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
As long as plastisol hadn’t gotten too hot or freeze it should be good. Sounds like the red isn’t bonding to the white. Many reasons this can happen. 1 over flashing the white. 2 that red a lot of red on top of a lot white. In these cases if I’m going to P/F/P the white I will use a lowere screen 166 or a 205. Then over print the red with a 205. I use rollers and high tension mesh so for statics that would be 156-180 for the white and 180 for the red. Red contains a lot of pigment and can result in crocking which I believe may be going on. Use of a extender (Clear pastisol ink) not a reducer will help. A reducer will also help if working with thicker inks.
gotcha. I will try these things and see how it works. i really appreciate the help
 

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you could use low bleed ink google it all the ink I use is low bleed although low bleed ink is intended to avoid dye migration this could help. Also I normally use 165 mesh because the ink deposit is less with 110 mesh the deposit of ink gets very thick on this type of job. Hopefully this can help you.
 
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