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PhotoTrans ImageClip - only option that won't leave polymer window?

22744 Views 54 Replies 20 Participants Last post by  Lnfortun
Hello.

I have access to a color laser printer (Xerox DocuColor 240) at work, but I'm not sure the PhotoTrans ImageClip transfer paper will work with it (it's a non-fuser oil based machine). I am afraid to ruin it, it's an expensive machine, and if something jams and messes things up, I'm ****ed. There isn't much info on this paper online, usually it's the same paragraph copy/pasted on various sites. So does anyone have experience with this paper? Particularily on non-fuser oil printers (as I understand, they get hotter), or even on the DocuColor 240. I need t-shirt prints that leave no window, it's an absolute necessitiy. So either directo to garment printing (rather expensive, and external company), or inkjet with MiraCool paper, or laser printing with the PhotoTrans ImageClip paper, those are my options really. (I need very small runs, so silk screening isn't really an option). Am I right?
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Just a question but dont all digital print transfer papers other than dye sub leave an edge around the image unless trimmed into the actual artwork?
Apparently not the PhotoTrans ImageClip
I have a sample of photo trans image clip, that I will be trying out within the next week. I will post results on it then.

And you are correct...no polymer window. Its supposed to look like screen printing :rolleyes:
excited to hear the results! what printer are you using?
excited to hear the results! what printer are you using?
Im not sure yet. My college is putting my business up in an office where, I am supposed to get free prints on a color laser printer, so Id like to take advantage of it (and save some money). I have been sitting on these samples for over a year. I got them when the paper was first coming out, but haven't been able to try them out until now. Im moving in on thursday. Ill post results when I get a chance.
And does the PhotoTrans ImageClip work only on white t-shirts or on darker colors too? I need it to leave NO polymer window trace around the artwork even on darker t-shirts...Can it do this?Thanks!
monkchild said:
And does the PhotoTrans ImageClip work only on white t-shirts or on darker colors too? I need it to leave NO polymer window trace around the artwork even on darker t-shirts...Can it do this?Thanks!
not an expert with digital transfers... but
PhotoTrans digital media.... is that the same as ImageClip ?
if so, photo transfer paper needs to be cut around the perimeter of the image for best results on lights and darks.

Not the same as Deco Material or Plastisol Transfers.

getting a little :confused: here.
LucyRoberts said:
not an expert with digital transfers... but
PhotoTrans digital media.... is that the same as ImageClip ?
if so, photo transfer paper needs to be cut around the perimeter of the image for best results on lights and darks.

Not the same as Deco Material or Plastisol Transfers.

getting a little :confused: here.
well, according to some people here and the marketing copy for the phototrans paper you don't need to cut around the design - that's the whole deal. you have experience with the paper and say you do? for both white and dark colors? have you experience with deco transfers, cos i'm looking into this, how do you find the qualtiy?
monkchild said:
well, according to some people here and the marketing copy for the phototrans paper you don't need to cut around the design - that's the whole deal. you have experience with the paper and say you do? for both white and dark colors? have you experience with deco transfers, cos i'm looking into this, how do you find the qualtiy?
still :confused:

one thing i can tell you is that laser color copy tonner will not print on black shirts ( where you can see it anyways..lol ).

It dont matter what digital media you feed thru machine. :D

deco transfers are ploter cut or die-cut and bond to the shirts.

you can do multi-2-3-4-5 color deco transfers tooo... more money.
what's the quality of deco like? is it very bad? it's a big plasticy thing? stands out a lot? they are quiete expensive compared to plastisol (if you do many runs, but i have to do single runs, so i cant go with plastisol)..
Why can't you take a sheet of Phototrans image clip paper and try it out on a cheaper desktop laser and test the paper to see if it will transfer a image as you hope ?
not an expert with digital transfers... but
PhotoTrans digital media.... is that the same as ImageClip ?
if so, photo transfer paper needs to be cut around the perimeter of the image for best results on lights and darks.

Not the same as Deco Material or Plastisol Transfers.

getting a little :confused: here.
Imageclip transfer paper is entirely different from the other Phototrans products. It is a two step process transfer paper. The image is first printed on the imaging transfer paper and a second transfer paper that has the polymer is heat pressed against the imagaing paper. Then the papers are separated while hot which makes the majority of polymer bond on the ink area and maybe a few specks on the open space. The specs does not really cause any adverse effect on the shirt. The imaging paper is then heat pressed on the garment and peeled off while it is hot.

The result, the transfered image feels and looks like it is screenprinted. No polymer patch, has softhand and the color is vibrant. The color is not muted since the ink is on top of the polymer instead of the other way around using regular transfer paper. The image did not turn dark which is a draw back with other transfer paper products. To coin a phrase, it is "WYSIWIG" end product.

It was a bit tricky at first but once I got the hang of it the product really lived up to the manufacturers claim.

No problem using hot non-oil fuser laser printer. I use it in Okidata C5200ne color laser printer.

I just printed three orders a total of 40 shirts a week ago. The order was a mixture of hanes beefy-t gold nugget color t-shirts and gray Printpro sweatshirts using the Imageclip papers. Imageclip works really well on sweatshirts.

I do still trim just to minimize the open space area that is covered with polymer specks. It is optional but I do not want to take chances just in case the specks show up on the garment. So far it has not been a problem.

I will try to post, when I get a hold of a descent camera, the first shirt I did before deciding to go ahead with Imageclip using sample papers from Coastal Business. The shirt is FOL natural color 50/50 that I printed with full color graphics.

Sorry about the long post. Just have to clarify the difference between Imageclip and other Phototrans regular transfer paper such as techniprint, etc.

BTW Coastal Business gives out samples. The price is right too. A lot cheaper than what is out there. Only thing is there are only two sizes, 8.5 X 11 and 11 X 17. Wish 8.5 X 14 is available. I have to print diagonally in order to get an image larger than 10 inches width wise.

Luis
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Im not sure yet. My college is putting my business up in an office where, I am supposed to get free prints on a color laser printer, so Id like to take advantage of it (and save some money). I have been sitting on these samples for over a year. I got them when the paper was first coming out, but haven't been able to try them out until now. Im moving in on thursday. Ill post results when I get a chance.
You should really try the new version of Imageclip. I heard the original version is not as good washability as the new version. I use Imageclip to print garments. I was amazed with the print when I tried the sample from Coastal Business and decided to go ahead with the paper.

Like you I have put off trying it because of the negative reviews with the old version. The new version IMHO is good to go.

Since you have the old version you may want to compare it to the new version.

Luis
Thanks for the tip. I will also try and use Photo trans imageclip. I've used the phototrans plus, and phototrans SC and am satisfied with the results. It seems that Neenah really knows how to make good products.

As an alternative to the original post, there are also discussions here about the Duracotton-oil, and Duracotton-HT. It might also be worth a try.
Thanks for the tip. I will also try and use Photo trans imageclip. I've used the phototrans plus, and phototrans SC and am satisfied with the results. It seems that Neenah really knows how to make good products.

As an alternative to the original post, there are also discussions here about the Duracotton-oil, and Duracotton-HT. It might also be worth a try.
I have tried Duracotton HT and oil (98) but both HT sample papers jammed in my printer using two different settings. I called dye-namic about my problem to get some answer. It turned out that I have the wrong settings for the media weight and paper type. I tried the Duracotton 98 which is suppose to be for oil type fuser at the same setting I used for HT and the paper did not jam (confused). Supposedly the 98 would have jammed but it went through the printer. The 98 had gray background which can be expected using Okidata C5200Ne CLP according to the manufacturer.

Imageclip does not have the gray background issue even on a light garment (Ash and Gold nugget). Only the inked area is transfered to the garment.

Inspite of my problem with Duracotton I am still considering giving it a shot since it is a one step process and it comes in 8.5 X 14 size. The sample pre-printed cloth I recieved from Dye-namic was impressive. No gray background. The sample pre-printed transfer did very well also when I pressed it on a garment. The key is choosing the right settings for my printer so that the HT does not jam and hopefully no gary background.

I do not have anymore Duracotton transfer paper to try. So I can not make any furthter coment about the Duractton. I am expecting some samples in two weeks. I will post the result.

I want to point out also that Duracotton costs a lot higher than Imageclip. At least compared to the price from Coastal Business.

Luis
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I have tried the Neenah ImageClip paper, until reciently I was not too impressed with the black transfering properly (colours seem fine), but after increasing the temperature when pressing the two papers together it worked perfectly,now well pleased with the results, washing is good too......I have an ash grey shirt I done a couple of years ago for myself, washed to death, and the colours are still great (black is faded quite a bit though, but that was before I learned to up the temp!
No polymer window and no trimming...

hope that helps

Dave_S
I have tried the Neenah ImageClip paper, until reciently I was not too impressed with the black transfering properly (colours seem fine), but after increasing the temperature when pressing the two papers together it worked perfectly,now well pleased with the results, washing is good too......I have an ash grey shirt I done a couple of years ago for myself, washed to death, and the colours are still great (black is faded quite a bit though, but that was before I learned to up the temp!
No polymer window and no trimming...

hope that helps

Dave_S
That is the key. Having the right temp and pressure when pressing the two papers together. It took a few trial and error and wasted transfer papers before I got the hang of it. Plus I wanted to make sure that the sample print I did the first time was not a fluke. You have to do this since heat presses, depending on the brand name, have temperature variability from the target temperature. I happen to have a press that has digitally controlled temperature. Even at that I still did some trial and error.

I lucked out though. The first sample paper I pressed came out perfect. Helped me decied to go ahead with Imageclip.

Luis
Luis,

I have also had good results with the Image Clip paper. When it works correctly, it is fantastic. I have trouble with the first transfer, when the polymer is applied to the areas with toner using the second sheet.

Sometimes, the polymer doesn't completely cover the areas with toner, and I waste a transfer. When this happens, a small patch of color will not be transferred to the shirt because the polymer is missing. Do you have this problem?

I have tried different times, temps, and pressures using a Hix HT-400 Digital press. What temperature and time do you use for the first press? I've been using 225 degrees for 20 seconds.

I've also noticed that the polymer has trouble attaching to lighter colors, especially light grey. Have you had any trouble with this?

For the second press, 375 degrees and 20 seconds seems to work fine for me. It's the first press that is the tricky one.
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