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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
I got Milford's light-color paper, and I'm experiencing peeling, cracking and fading after only one wash.

Would that be the paper or the ironing process that causes this?

Here is what Milford say about their paper:
"Sick and tired of buying transfers that peel and crack after a single use? Us too."

Has anyone had good experience with their paper?
 

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Clinton said:
I got Milford's light-color paper, and I'm experiencing peeling, cracking and fading after only one wash.

Would that be the paper or the ironing process that causes this?

Here is what Milford say about their paper:
"Sick and tired of buying transfers that peel and crack after a single use? Us too."

Has anyone had good experience with their paper?
On what type of fabric knit did you print them on ?

were they light or color shirts ?
 

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Clinton said:
Would that be the paper or the ironing process that causes this?
If by "ironing process" you mean with an iron (as opposed to a heat press), that might be the problem. If you're using a heat press... it could still be the pressing (uneven heat on the platen, no pre-press of the shirts, too little or too much time, not enough pressure, etc.).
 

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Which paper did you buy exactly? He sells so many types. I get iron all from them. If you bought the regular hot peel and did not pre-press or you did not press with enough heat you in fact may have the problem you are having and that is with a lot of papers not just paper from New Mildord. Have you tried Iron All for lights?
 

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Discussion Starter #6
badalou said:
Which paper did you buy exactly? He sells so many types. I get iron all from them. If you bought the regular hot peel and did not pre-press or you did not press with enough heat you in fact may have the problem you are having and that is with a lot of papers not just paper from New Mildord. Have you tried Iron All for lights?
I have tried Iron All, the way you described in your videos, but all I got was a big mess, flakes and jams in my printer, and a lot of frustration. Luckily, I could exchange my new printer for another one, but I do not want to take that risk again. I don't know that it's worth the hassle.

Do you find the Iron All superior to Milford's light-color paper?
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Solmu said:
If by "ironing process" you mean with an iron (as opposed to a heat press), that might be the problem. If you're using a heat press... it could still be the pressing (uneven heat on the platen, no pre-press of the shirts, too little or too much time, not enough pressure, etc.).
Great food for thought. I'll try the suggestions you have brought up. Being the new kid on the block, I was not aware of the pre-press process. Does that mean I have to heat-press the shirt first without the paper, then press again with the paper? Is that meant to "pre-heat" the fabric?
 

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Clinton said:
Being the new kid on the block, I was not aware of the pre-press process. Does that mean I have to heat-press the shirt first without the paper, then press again with the paper? Is that meant to "pre-heat" the fabric?
Correct process - you usually want to press the shirt without the paper in place for about 3-5 seconds. There are a few reasons to pre-press like this:

It removes excess moisture. You'll see steam rise off the shirt after a pre-press; this moisture can cause faulty prints without a pre-press.

Pre-pressing also straightens out the shirt, giving you a nice wrinkle-free surface to transfer on to. Wrinkles can cause major problems when pressing on to them.

I don't know how important the fact that it also "pre-heats" the shirt is, but it does that too ;)
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Twinge said:
Correct process - you usually want to press the shirt without the paper in place for about 3-5 seconds. There are a few reasons to pre-press like this:

It removes excess moisture. You'll see steam rise off the shirt after a pre-press; this moisture can cause faulty prints without a pre-press.

Pre-pressing also straightens out the shirt, giving you a nice wrinkle-free surface to transfer on to. Wrinkles can cause major problems when pressing on to them.

I don't know how important the fact that it also "pre-heats" the shirt is, but it does that too ;)
Are you suppose to press the paper right after the pre-press while the fabric is still hot, or do you wait for the shirt to cool first?
 

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Clinton said:
Are you suppose to press the paper right after the pre-press while the fabric is still hot, or do you wait for the shirt to cool first?
I don't think that it makes a lot of difference. I press it right after pre-pressing, but I don't frantically rush to press it quickly while it's still hot or anything either.

Maybe someone that had pressed more shirts than I can provide further insight here.
 

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Clinton said:
Are you suppose to press the paper right after the pre-press while the fabric is still hot, or do you wait for the shirt to cool first?
the idea of the pre-press is to remove Moisture/Humidity off the shirt etc. and to remove rinkles etc... you need a flat surface. :D
 

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Do you find the Iron All superior to Milford's light-color paper?
Yes I do. I am really, really careful about how I place the transfer into the machine and never place more than one at a time. I know some of you have given up on using them. I wish they would get a handle on the chemical they use to coat this paper (Iron All And MiraCool) If I wasn't using these papers then my next choice would be transjet ll. If I was gong to do an event and it was strictly a promotional tee I probably would use transjet ll But I do a lot of personalized tees and work with a photographer who pushes them in his studio so I want to make sure his customers are happy and come back for more.
 
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