Re: I need help with my homemade Exposure Unit!
it's puzzling me..you made that yourself and (1) printed it on your printer right? (2) so how are you going to know if your transparencies is opaque enough if your "exposure calculator" is printed on your same printer? (3) can you control the opaqueness of your printer (i am thinking you are printing on a normal desktop printer)?
I'd bet you have a more expensive and above normal printer.
I should be the one puzzled. You are asking me if it was printed on my "normal" printer, I still haven't replied, but it was immediately followed by 2 questions based on drawn conclusions.
1). I spent about P120 to P150 for my original copy. I guess your 2 follow up questions not giving me a chance to answer is now moot and academic.
You are aware that my shop is located in a commercial mall within a major commercial complex and is very accessible to a number of commercial printers, meaning I could have just slipped out and have a copy re-printed, to make you (what in the vernacular is called)
MAPAHIYA or MABARA. I could also simply claim I still have that copy on hand and you wouldn't even know. But I won't lie so I am saying I have lost that copy.
I have a copy printed on my office printer, and have used that copy since. And to be courteous as I think all people here should be (and not being self-confessed critics, or habitually scrutinizing other people's post to find loopholes, as some people believed their role in a forum is), I will nevertheless answer your question.
2). how are you going to know if your transparencies is opaque enough if your "exposure calculator" is printed on your same printer?
To repeat, the original was printed for P120 or P150. Costing for self printed copies should cost P1.50 or less so the printer must be a good one. I guess another wrong assumption. To answer:
a. inks from various resellers may have different opacity.
b. I use pigment inks but some say dye inks are better.
c. I may go back to using original inks instead of CISS.
d. I may buy another printer
e. I often print using
best photo mode. I sometimes print mostly text images in
photo mode only.
f. I usually print in 300dpi if the software I am using allows it. However, some color separation program suggests that you print in 150-200dpi only.
g. If someone gives me a transparency for exposure, by looking at their transparency, I hope to have a better idea if their transparency is opaque enough.
h. Printing problems may arise affecting opacity. Maybe ink clogging visible on exposure, uneven opacity, etc.
i. Most programs allow you to replace default printer settings which may affect opacity.
This gradient type calculator should be helpful any of the above situation. The various shades of black will hopefully give me an idea how far off a print positive is.
(3) can you control the opaqueness of your printer
I am not sure if this is a trick question or what. Well, to be courteous and to assume that it is an honest question-to-goodness question, I'd say I can adjust the print quality or the dpi of the image which affects opacity. AND OF COURSE YES. Can't your printer print in various printing modes like draft mode(least paque), text mode, text and image mode(medium opacity), photo mode, and best photo mode(best opacity for the printer)? My printer, and others I've used, allow the user to disable fast printing which seems to result in better prints (yours should have the same or a similar option)
I am also using ghostscript although I am not sure if it works for my printer model.