You may have it backwards here--you want it to get 'work hardened' to minimize tension loss, so you don't have to restretch it on a regular basis. I count on restretching 4-7 times before the screen stays reasonably stable, but it depends on many variables.
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True--it's the same principle that's been at work for an even longer time in conventional pneumatic stretchers. Although the L2 has the added advantage over manual stretching of bringing both warp and weft threads to tension at the same time, I don't have the room or the 3K+ to drop on one. 
The SPTF has an excellent paper (from the late nineties, I believe) on "Rapid Tensioning"--get a hold of a copy if you're really interested in the pros and cons.
The SPTF has an excellent paper (from the late nineties, I believe) on "Rapid Tensioning"--get a hold of a copy if you're really interested in the pros and cons.
Sben's right on--always tear the mesh for straight edges you can align to.
When you put the mesh on the frame, and clip in the first (long) side, measure it--you should have equal amounts of mesh outside of each clip. If you don't, squeeze the clip (DON'T pull against the clip while it's seated) and adjust it slightly until it is even--then the other side should be even, and you can adjust the 'slant' on the short sides by measuring from the corners.
Once you get good at that and you want to do even better, you get to relearn it all again doing reverse curves.
When you put the mesh on the frame, and clip in the first (long) side, measure it--you should have equal amounts of mesh outside of each clip. If you don't, squeeze the clip (DON'T pull against the clip while it's seated) and adjust it slightly until it is even--then the other side should be even, and you can adjust the 'slant' on the short sides by measuring from the corners.
Once you get good at that and you want to do even better, you get to relearn it all again doing reverse curves.
You mention one thing that "Inked" might be missing, namely the alignment clips. Unless you have the instructions from Stretch Devices, or maybe have purchased a "system" with the whole kit-and-kaboodle, many who just buy the frames from a dealer might not be aware of the clips, which are pretty much essential in getting the mesh on straight.Sben's right on--always tear the mesh for straight edges you can align to.
When you put the mesh on the frame, and clip in the first (long) side, measure it--you should have equal amounts of mesh outside of each clip. If you don't, squeeze the clip (DON'T pull against the clip while it's seated) and adjust it slightly until it is even--then the other side should be even, and you can adjust the 'slant' on the short sides by measuring from the corners.
Once you get good at that and you want to do even better, you get to relearn it all again doing reverse curves.
Good call, Tom.
I was thinking those clips looked familiar, although in all fairness, the ones I paid $15 for ARE very shiny.
If you never had a chance to RTFM, better now than never. Here you go:
Forms & Downloads | Stretch Devices
I was thinking those clips looked familiar, although in all fairness, the ones I paid $15 for ARE very shiny.
If you never had a chance to RTFM, better now than never. Here you go:
Forms & Downloads | Stretch Devices
i just printed today with my first rollers.
got them from sben actually
i did not have clips (didn't know i could get the same thing at lowes... grrrr)
i did manage to get them straight, and got the frames straight.
tensioned with no meter, so just going by feel, but they are significantly tighter than my static aluminum's.
i know it's not scientific, but i can bounce a quarter to the ceiling off them
i learned real quick also, a torque wrench really is vital. harbor freight has a 1/2 inch drive torque for 20 bucks.
sooner or later i'll get the proper wrench... maybe... but for now, i'm using a 12" long handle crescent.. but probably going to weld a longer handle onto it for leverage.
i printed with them today and was pleased with how they worked. i haven't done a retention, but i did notice they were not as tight as a few days ago when i did them. but i saw in the manual tonight that you should retension after a few hours... im gonna do them again tomorrow.
like i said, no clue what my tension is, but it was tight. i did manage to rip one screen out of 4, overtensioned, and ripped the screen. i had enough mesh so i was still able to get all four done. but i was a little more hesitant after that.
to the OP... as far as screen life...
when i was at mindseye graphics last week, i was asking the same thing about the life of the mesh.... they pointed out a few pallets of rollers, still in use, that have had the mesh in them for over 10 years.
got them from sben actually
i did not have clips (didn't know i could get the same thing at lowes... grrrr)
i did manage to get them straight, and got the frames straight.
tensioned with no meter, so just going by feel, but they are significantly tighter than my static aluminum's.
i know it's not scientific, but i can bounce a quarter to the ceiling off them
i learned real quick also, a torque wrench really is vital. harbor freight has a 1/2 inch drive torque for 20 bucks.
sooner or later i'll get the proper wrench... maybe... but for now, i'm using a 12" long handle crescent.. but probably going to weld a longer handle onto it for leverage.
i printed with them today and was pleased with how they worked. i haven't done a retention, but i did notice they were not as tight as a few days ago when i did them. but i saw in the manual tonight that you should retension after a few hours... im gonna do them again tomorrow.
like i said, no clue what my tension is, but it was tight. i did manage to rip one screen out of 4, overtensioned, and ripped the screen. i had enough mesh so i was still able to get all four done. but i was a little more hesitant after that.
to the OP... as far as screen life...
when i was at mindseye graphics last week, i was asking the same thing about the life of the mesh.... they pointed out a few pallets of rollers, still in use, that have had the mesh in them for over 10 years.
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