[fkudlack]

Hey everybody,

New to newman roller frames... I have 156 mesh tensioned to 35n and i'm having a little issue coating. the frames are 18x20 id 3 roller 1 square frames. The 2 roller only corners were softened till i could just touch the table, the square bar corners i did about half of that. I made sure that the mesh is turned enough on all rollers that it is flat and touching the table on the subtrate side. My issue is that in each corner I am getting much thicker emulsion lay down in the corners just at the start and the finish of applying with the scoop coater. It's like i am not pushing hard enough.. I am really pushing into the mesh and it has gotten maybe slightly better. I am using a 16" monster max scoop coater I am wondering if maybe I should get a 15" coater? Or do I need to not soften my corners as much? The corners at tension now aren't too loose... if you go from the start of the locking strip channel to the other channel that is the pointwhere the mesh really starts to get firm and maybe an inch passed that point is where it is closed to full tension. How taught should the corners be after they are all the way tensioned? Maybe if someone could post a pic of a properly stretched frame with what a corner should look like.


Thanks

 

[tpitman]

It sounds like you've tensioned the frames up correctly. You're gonna get a drip close to the corners if your coater is too wide. Use a narrower coater, or come up a little shy of the corners with the one you've got, or wipe the excess with a rag or paper towel.

 

[sben763]

I did and still do get extra in the corners. You did the softening correctly with the square bar. I use a 16" coater but I was having major problems with the monster coater so I went back to my smaller coater from ryonet and is much better. I like the concept of the monster coater and it does put a thicker coat on but leaves excessive emulsion in the corners. I thought about chopping it down on chop saw with a abrasive blade.

 

[dhoffroad]

not trying to take this off subject but.... sben763, if you do cut the coater down dont use a "abrasive" wheel, aluminum cuts better with a good carbide "wood" blade just use a wood chop saw and your good to go. sounds scarry I know but I'v been working with metal for a long time and have used "wood" tools (saws and routers ) on aluminum allot.

 

[sben763]

Thanks for the tip but I have a metal chop saw and install aluminum patio railings so my saw is set up for making really nice cuts on aluminum. It's not a standard abrasive blade either.

 

[ScreenFoo]

I'd agree with the above, and add that if you're coating into where you soften the corners, you're using emulsion where you will not print--you could be saving money by taping it off instead. I've only done the math on 23x31's, but emulsion costs us roughly eight to twelve times as much money as tape does. And although there could be a reasonable labor argument (if you or your screen prep persons time is extremely valuable) an extra piece on four sides takes me less than twenty seconds to apply... not to mention easier ink and stencil removal.