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Discussion Starter #1
hi...i just bought a mint tjet2 and im having some issues...so far all i have been able to do is
a-charge the ink
b-run head clean

i have all software installed...sometimes when i turn the machine on it gives me red error, sometimes not.

prints look way crappy...have no clue where or what to do or how to get started...
 

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Discussion Starter #3
it was very well maintained -yes i can do nozzle checks and have even printed on a couple shirts, but colors are light, im getting ink dripping on the ts as well......
 

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im getting ink dripping on the ts as well......
This sounds like your ink containers may be too high. If they are too high, ink will build up on the bottom of your head, block other nozzles as well. This would give you a lighter print and definitely dripping.

Generally, your ink levels should be about 1 inch below the print head. You should try to maintain a certain ink level in your containers or you would have to readjust your height the lower your inks go.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
the ink that came with the machine had never been opened before...its fast ink2. i originally thought ink too full too, but on my bottles its less than "full" ?
 

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Sorry, let me rephrase that. If your ink containers are set to high above the printhead, it will cause an additional force that will push your ink out at a higher rate than it jets. So essentially, you are flooding the print head. The effects of this are dripping ink and blocked nozzles. With bottles, it's difficult to always have it at the correct height because as the ink lowers, the placement of the ink in relation to the print head changes. What you need to do for best performance is keep your ink levels about the same between each color and usually at the same height in the bottles. But the bottles themselves, may need to adjust in height, once again, in relation to the head.

Depending on your bulk system, you may need to adjust it differently. If you have real tall bottles, it may need to be at a different height than short bottles. That being said, the ideal position of the ink should be about 1 inch below your print head.
 

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the ink that came with the machine had never been opened before...its fast ink2. i originally thought ink too full too, but on my bottles its less than "full" ?

If the ink is labeled FastINK 2 it is well over 2 years old and well past the manufacturer's recommended 'use by' time. Colored ink should be used within a year and white ink within 6 months.

Your bulk ink bottles should generally be filled no higher then 1/2 full.

Harry
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Discussion Starter #9
ok...hmmm...well im actually geting pretty decent prints now, i think i just need to learn the software a little better...so is my in too old to print w/? it was all unopened. also i can do head cleaning but when i nozzle check and hit print, load the bed the tjet gives me an error light and wont let me print the test paper?
 

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Discussion Starter #10
anybody know why an image very bright an colorful looks dark and dull once imported to fastartist?
 

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yeah, I wouldn't chance the ink it may be why prints are acting the way they are.

Also, it will soon clog your print head and you will have to get a new one.

We had old ink and didn't realize it because we got from another DTG printer who needed a job done and our 2 month old printhead got clogged and ruined.

I know its a big expensive to get new ink but the old ink will cause you more problems in the end.
 

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anybody know why an image very bright an colorful looks dark and dull once imported to fastartist?
The representation of the image imported in fastartist is not accurate. You'll notice when you print it out that it looks like it should.
 

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yeah, I wouldn't chance the ink it may be why prints are acting the way they are.

Also, it will soon clog your print head and you will have to get a new one.

We had old ink and didn't realize it because we got from another DTG printer who needed a job done and our 2 month old printhead got clogged and ruined.

I know its a big expensive to get new ink but the old ink will cause you more problems in the end.


Please also keep in mind that if your ink is marked FastInk 2 it is at least 2 years old. It could be much older than that. As FatKat Printz correctly pointed out, the old ink has a strong possibility of clogging your printhead, cartridges, and other ink train components. Not to mention the equally strong chance that it won't adhere well to your garments.

Harry
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Discussion Starter #14
ok...i think im going to get some NEW ink and i do thin im getting the hang of this....just a couple of hopefully easily answered questions if you guys would be so kind....
how do i print just BLACK and WHITE images? like say just white on a black shirt, and use the black color of the Tshirt for the black, rather than printing black on black?
also any tips on getting the shirt as straight as possible on the shirt board?
and last but not least, when im heating the pretreated shirts on my heatpress with butcher paper, it should be at what temp for how long? when im curing after the print, im doing 335F for 80 secs, that sound right?
thx all
william
 

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Discussion Starter #16
ok...i did dl the idiots guide, helpful but mentions nothing of printing black shirts w/ white ink only, do i just run them as an underbase for the shirts or what? and the temps i was referring to are after i spray the heat treatment i should cure them for how long?
 

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ok...i think im going to get some NEW ink and i do thin im getting the hang of this....just a couple of hopefully easily answered questions if you guys would be so kind....
how do i print just BLACK and WHITE images? like say just white on a black shirt, and use the black color of the Tshirt for the black, rather than printing black on black?
also any tips on getting the shirt as straight as possible on the shirt board?
william


To print strictly pure black or white images the ideal format would be a pure vector object. Once you have the object in FastArtist than select "SF4" from your color pallet for your black images. This will use a Spot black "100% black" compared to p4 which is a process black (the printer will use CMYK) to create a black. For white images you will select all images and select "SF3" This is a pure white and will print the object out as well. You will underbase these types of files using the Underbase Attributes color pallet as well. This is below the standard color pallet. select whichever underbase option you prefer.



An easy way to get the shirts as straight as possible onto the shirt board is to use the collar to find the middle of the shirt board and slowly move the shirt up into position before using the frame to hold it into place. A 2nd option is to do the same thing but fold the garment in half and heat press it for a moment to get a center line crease. Than use this line to line everything up. I've spoken with a few users who have also used a small router to 'draw'/carve a center line of the shirt board as well. This should help out to some degree in getting everything literally 'straightened' out.


Harry
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Discussion Starter #20 (Edited)
why does fast artist have to SUCK so bad? i know my way around photoshop and considering its one of the more complex image editing softwares id assume i could get my way around this fast artist???? why for the love of god when i import an image and remove the background, do the set up wizard etc does crap artist insist on printing a white background (box) where i clearly used the eyedropper tool to remove my background?? all im trying to do is print the outline of this image in color and use the black on the tshirt in place of black ink...simple enough right??? one would think!!
 
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