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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello there I heard a lot hear about Iron All at Millford so tried it. Looked great before washing but after a usual washing was completely ruined, most image part only really faded compared to most other transfer papers I've tried and some image also flaked off. Did just as instructed and as mentioned looked great before washing. Is this a common problem with Iron All or is there a technique I'm missing. Good transfer ink using that works fine on other transfers. Hope someone knows any insite would be helpful, thank you very much for your help. Jen
 

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Yes this is common for iron all light transfer paper.
 

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Hi. I actually had some of my best results from an unbranded paper, sold by an EBay powerseller.

The quality of transfer papers varies a lot. Pigment ink is generally preferred over dye based inks, although with a good paper, you can get good results from both types of ink.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Thanks a lot you guys really appreciate it, anyone else had this problem with Iron All as well? Then I'll know for sure the problem is just the Iron All.
 

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Thanks a lot you guys really appreciate it, anyone else had this problem with Iron All as well? Then I'll know for sure the problem is just the Iron All.
YEP! The hand is awesome but the durability is awful. I still have half a pack that I will never use ....
 

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Ahhhh thanks a lot now I know its probably not me. Really appreciate it now can move on to something else. Thanks bunches everyone, Jen
 

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Another hand in the air for an Ironall user who went to Jetprosofstretch and will not look back. I have a half a pack in need to make into mouse pads or totes. :D

Jen, what type of printer did you use, a pigment ink printer? (JPSS has worked perfect with my dye printer, I even bleached my shirt with no color loss. Both pigment and dye inks didn't bleach out with JPSS... great paper, I can't rave enough.)

Jen, if you are stuck with the Ironall and want to try to use it, the Jerzees might help you make good on the balance of your stock. If you have a wholesaler, next time you order, maybe try a Jerzees HW 50/50 cotton/poly shirt (29B).

I tried 12 different brands and blends of shirts to find one that Ironall would not fade on (JPSS was not out at the time). The only one was the Jerzees, and it worked beautifully actually, but I can't be limited to just the Jerzees, obviously, so I love that JPSS came along and now I can use any wonderful shirt I like.

Jetprosofstretch can be found at tshirtsupplies.com as well as at new milford photo, maybe new milford will let you make a trade. Who knows. :) There are alot of suppliers, but these two are alot of times really nicely priced.

Good luck to you...
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Hello Girlzndolz thanks a lot for the tips. Using an transfer ink from new milford with epson. So you do well with dye instead of pigment? Regarding Jerzee are you talking about heaver type shirts often used for sports jerzees? Or is there specific name brands of Jerzee that works the best that you're talking about. Would you recommend 50/50 cotton/poly for regular T-shirts not Jerzees as well?
Was so busy testing transfer papers and trying to find good ones hadn't had a chance to test a lot of shirts yet so thanks a lot for the tips.

Because problem I've seen with most transfer papers is either the ink flakes off in the wash before too long or the transfer paper does or cracks which seems to happen in an awful lot of transfer papers and I've tested many. I'll definitely be trying JPSS.

Best, Jen
 

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Hello Girlzndolz thanks a lot for the tips.
You're welcome. :)

Using an transfer ink from new milford with epson. So you do well with dye instead of pigment?
I use pigment ink, but tried my Canon ink as a test, and it only works for me when I use it with JPSS paper. The dye fades in time (6 to 8 +/-washes).

Regarding Jerzee are you talking about heaver type shirts often used for sports jerzees?
Jerzees the brand... like Gildan, Fruit of the Loom, Anvil, etc.

Or is there specific name brands of Jerzee that works the best that you're talking about.
Yes, that is it. Jerzees Heavy Weight 50/50 poly/cotton (style = 29).

Would you recommend 50/50 cotton/poly for regular T-shirts not Jerzees as well?
I do prefer the 50/50 blends over the 100% cottons on the brands I've used.

The 50/50's do not shrink any further (even 100% preshrunk cotton shirts can still shrink a tad more), the 50/50's have a nice smooth finish, and they do not suffer from the fibrillation that 100% cotton does. That is when the tiny fibers on the surface lift. They give the shirt a faded appearance when it is not.

Was so busy testing transfer papers and trying to find good ones hadn't had a chance to test a lot of shirts yet so thanks a lot for the tips.
You're very welcome. I hope it all works out well for you. :)

Because problem I've seen with most transfer papers is either the ink flakes off in the wash before too long or the transfer paper does or cracks which seems to happen in an awful lot of transfer papers and I've tested many. I'll definitely be trying JPSS.
I hope you have as great of an experience with JPSS as many of us here to. Remember to pre-press to remove the moisture from the tee, and to stretch the shirt after you press, and re-press it for about 5-8 seconds.

Use less ink (text/normal mode) and you should be fine. Best wishes.....
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Remember to pre-press to remove the moisture from the tee, and to stretch the shirt after you press, and re-press it for about 5-8 seconds.
That leads me more in the right direction instead of feeling so much in the dark thanks very much for that. I hadn't heard about stretching before and a bit confused. You should stretch the shirt right after transfer print is put on and then keep repressing the transfer right away after? Or are you talking about regular ironing and stretching only before the transfer print is ever put on?

Thanks a lot, Jen
 

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That leads me more in the right direction instead of feeling so much in the dark thanks very much for that. I hadn't heard about stretching before and a bit confused. You should stretch the shirt right after transfer print is put on and then keep repressing the transfer right away after? Or are you talking about regular ironing and stretching only before the transfer print is ever put on?

Thanks a lot, Jen

I have a good post for you. It is step by step pressing I wrote out a little while ago for someone. If you don't mind, I'll link you to save some typing. This is for hot peel, but the directions go in order and the other things you use, like teflon (or parchment paper) for the repress are explained. If you have any q's about the post, feel free to ask.

Here it is:
http://www.t-shirtforums.com/heat-press-heat-transfers/t39007.html#post229735

Oh, ps, that thread is about hand ironing. There is no difference in the process whether you hand iron or use a press, the "other" steps remain the same.

Now, there is a new development with pressing JPSS. Rhonda has discovered how to "cold peel" the JPSS instead of "hot peel" to get the finish to be smoother. Here is the thread for that, but don't mix up the two processes and confuse steps, because if a cold peel is done wrong, the image will Crack.

I'd say stick with hot peel until you have that down pat before trying out cold peel unless you are the confident type. I'm not. I'm still waiting for longer term wash results before I try the cold peel method, but others are checking it out, so let me give you that link, in case you want to also:
http://www.t-shirtforums.com/heat-press-heat-transfers/t56833.html

I hope this helps alot... and if you have any q's, just post them in one of the threads.. Good luck, Jen. :)
 
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