More off contact or tighter mesh would probably cure your woes. You can also extend the ink to make it easier to deal with. It will effect opacity if too much is added. I have moved away from the maxopakes because they like to stick to the blade, and I prefer my ink to run a little more.
Need Help... Mixopake woes...
Hi guys,
We've been using Maxopakes, but thought we'd try out the Mixopake range.
Firstly, this stuff is so thick! it's like tar... is this right? Basically, we've been trying to print a very simple design onto a dark garment and firstly it's difficult to prime, and secondly, the tshirt sticks to the screen when lifting it up and leaves a horrible blotchy print.
I'm priming as lightly as possible, and i've tried printing lightly, and also firmly at 45 degrees with a straight edged squeegee. No matter what I do, it leaves a horrible rough finish and far too much ink is going through the screen.
What am I doing wrong... or is this ink just horrible? We didn't have this problem with the maxopakes!
Thanks in advance
FlyRobot
We've been using Maxopakes, but thought we'd try out the Mixopake range.
Firstly, this stuff is so thick! it's like tar... is this right? Basically, we've been trying to print a very simple design onto a dark garment and firstly it's difficult to prime, and secondly, the tshirt sticks to the screen when lifting it up and leaves a horrible blotchy print.
I'm priming as lightly as possible, and i've tried printing lightly, and also firmly at 45 degrees with a straight edged squeegee. No matter what I do, it leaves a horrible rough finish and far too much ink is going through the screen.
What am I doing wrong... or is this ink just horrible? We didn't have this problem with the maxopakes!
Thanks in advance
FlyRobot
1 - 6 of 6 Posts
Some may think this shocking, but we just thin it down with mineral turpentine and flash cure it, you don't need to add much and we have never had a problem with it.
Try it and test it
Hope this helps
Try it and test it
Hope this helps
Some of the inks are thicker than others, depending on the color and the mix. I routinely print a lime green mixopake mix that prints easily through a 255 mesh. The mixopake white is pretty thick as a standalone ink. I've found Maxopake Royal Blue to be almost unusable. All depends on the color. Add a little curable reducer in the proper proportion, or you can base it down to use on lighter color shirts. Also, if it's cold, it's harder to use, as are all inks. My shop is hotter than hell except in the dead of winter, so a quick stir loosens most ink up to the point that it wants to drop off the knife.
http://www.unionink.com/unionink/articles/Inkchart.pdf
go to the Url and download this ink application chart by union it is helpful.
your problem might be linked to the underbase and the garment you are printing on.
read the chart carefully.
go to the Url and download this ink application chart by union it is helpful.
your problem might be linked to the underbase and the garment you are printing on.
read the chart carefully.
Do a few preliminary prints during which you work the ink with the squeegee and give it a good hot flash in between each. As your pallets warm up and the false body is broken down, it will become much softer and easier to work with.
1 - 6 of 6 Posts
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