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Need help! :( JPSS on 100% canvas tote not transferring?

3006 Views 10 Replies 7 Participants Last post by  Pyroshouse
I just started a small business, selling canvas totes with designs, using JPSS.

Heat press: Maxx
Paper: JPSS
Temp: 375
Time: 30s
Tote material: 100% cotton canvas, 12oz thickness

What I do: I iron the tote to get wrinkles out, then i use a small fabric shaver to get any fuzz out to make the surface as even as possible.

I then pre-press the tote for about 5s to get the moisture out (is this enough? how do i tell whether it's dry?)

Then after pressing at 375 for 30s, I slowly peel the paper off.

Problem is - 9 of 10 times, the image doesn't transfer completely! And it doesn't "sink" into the fabric, it only manages to transfer on the raised parts. I have attached a photo, hopefully it shows what the problem is.

Is the type of tote I am using just wrong???



I only have 5 totes remaining, already destroyed 15. :(

I need to post it out by tomorrow!!!! Help please. :(
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heavy pressure?

I had to stop doing cotton canvas totes because of the 'sizing' manufacturer was putting in the material.
I would get incomplete transfer...no matter what I did.
The 'sizing' repels the transfer.
Had to go to POLY totes...with dye sub.
To get heavy 12-14 oz poly totes like the cotton ones available costs alot more...
so I had to discontinue cotton totes at reasonable price.
Only do bling and vinyl now on cotton totes.

LEO
heavy pressure?

I had to stop doing cotton canvas totes because of the 'sizing' manufacturer was putting in the material.
I would get incomplete transfer...no matter what I did.
The 'sizing' repels the transfer.
Had to go to POLY totes...with dye sub.
To get heavy 12-14 oz poly totes like the cotton ones available costs alot more...
so I had to discontinue cotton totes at reasonable price.
Only do bling and vinyl now on cotton totes.

LEO
What is this "sizing"?? Is there any way to remove it? I've managed to get most of my designs on the totes but somehow, black just does not transfer well.

Strangely, all other colors are fine!?
"Sizing was developed for synthetics and fabric blends. It restores the original body to fabrics without stiffness and can be used on natural fabrics for a light finish."

I was also told it help to keep shirts from getting dirty in retail stores from dirty hands, falling on the floor.
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I'm pretty sure I know why you're having difficulty getting your transfer to adhere -- you're not raising it up high enough about the seams. You'll need a large mouse pad and insert it into the bag in order to raise the printable surface higher than the seams... I've done plenty of canvas tote bags, and that's most likely the issue you're having. You also need to make sure that ALL of the moisture is out of the bag. The canvas holds A LOT of moisture! You'll also need to make sure that the pressure is pretty high in order to get the best print.
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I'm pretty sure I know why you're having difficulty getting your transfer to adhere -- you're not raising it up high enough about the seams. You'll need a large mouse pad and insert it into the bag in order to raise the printable surface higher than the seams... I've done plenty of canvas tote bags, and that's most likely the issue you're having. You also need to make sure that ALL of the moisture is out of the bag. The canvas holds A LOT of moisture! You'll also need to make sure that the pressure is pretty high in order to get the best print.
I'll try the large mouse pad soon! And report back here on the results...

How do I get moisture out of the canvas though? Pre-pressing seems to just create more moisture as there is a lot of condensation when i remove it from the press.
I'll try the large mouse pad soon! And report back here on the results...

How do I get moisture out of the canvas though? Pre-pressing seems to just create more moisture as there is a lot of condensation when i remove it from the press.
The condensation that you're seeing is the moisture coming OUT. I don't remember how long I pre-pressed, but I'd do it a few times for short periods (the canvas can scorch -- I've done it, I know! LOL).
BTW, if the seams are bigger than my large mouse pad, I add cardboard behind the mouse pad (away from the heat) just to lift it higher. Having the large mouse pad had helped me in so many situations. I most recently used it when I had double sided shirts I was doing. I pressed the first image on the front (doing the whole order's first side), then put parchment paper on the pad, flipped the shirt to be back-side up, then put the mouse pad inside the shirt, and pressed the second image. I didn't have to worry about the transfer "blowing through" to the back of the shirt! :) I have also used a fabric coaster (which is a really small mouse pad) for doing sleeve prints on tees. It prevents the hemmed edge of the sleeve from interfering with getting a good solid print. ;)
Now for some reason I have this problem when I'm doing shirts using JPSS but mainly the black ink has that sort of patchy look. I don't get it because I use pads to raise the area. Maybe more pressure?
Now for some reason I have this problem when I'm doing shirts using JPSS but mainly the black ink has that sort of patchy look. I don't get it because I use pads to raise the area. Maybe more pressure?
JPSS requires a lot of pressure.

If you are having this problem then set your press so that it is difficult to close it up for pressing with a garment inside.
Good tip on the mouse pad, the other option is a teflon coated pillow coastal sells them in a variety of sizes.
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