need help asap with white plastisol

Anyone?? I have to get these done but have no clue what is causing this.

You say printing an underbase. What goes on the underbase? Is it just white ink on black ribbed shirt. If so, print/flash/print. Two coats of white should be sufficient. To print smoothly on the ribbed garment, the ink should be thinned a little bit with cureable reducer. Just a little, not more than 5%, to make the ink flow easily. To fully seal the first coat, in flashing, go a little beyond the sticky jelled stage, just enough to hold up the second coat of ink. Make sure you are using the most opaque white you can get. Maybe this is a start anyway.

Ok maybe I should have put this in the post at first lol. I am working in my garage have no reducer or anything like that. I dry with a heat gun.

And it is white base, and some pink graphics.

Mo matter how many coats I do it looks like this. I have cleaned the screen numerous times. I have about an 1/8" off contact.

what is your mesh count on your screen?

110. That's the lowest I have.

You need a thicker layer of ink. Your pushing the ink into the shirt. Build up a thicker layer of emulsion on the print side of the screen. Try not to press so hard.

Ellas_Embroidery said:

You need a thicker layer of ink. Your pushing the ink into the shirt. Build up a thicker layer of emulsion on the print side of the screen. Try not to press so hard.

Click to expand...

So when I flood the screen build up more ink? Does pushing the ink in the shirt come from pushing to hard? And I have 2 layers of emulsion on both sides. It is pretty thick already, you can feel it when you go over it.

It seems to me you have that "film" of emulsion "suds" that remain after you wash out the screen. Myself and at least one other poster use spit to remove this. It's weird yet I've had better luck removing this film with spit than any chem. Spit and tap with your finger on both sides until your screen is cleared. Hope it helps

Some times i print flash print white 135-156,flash then print ink on top, if there is no WHITE showing, then i only print flash white, then color on top . The high mesh will make the print smoother, flood the screen and use a sharp angle for the stroke normal pressure. I also suggest a flash unit and conveyer dryer as soon as you can this will insure that your ink will be properly cured, and wont come off in the wash.

Oh another thing is once you dry your underbase it needs to cool so it won't block up your screen. And I agree about a conveyor - must have in my mind.

I know I need a dryer but this works great right now I take my time and have a thermometer.
I have already gotten good prints from this screen yesterday. This just started today. It honestly looks like the ink that goes on the shirt sticks to the screen in some spots. But it's not always the same spots. Lol. I just am new and have never had this happen so I don't know what to adjust to fix it.

Conveyer cost to much for me right now. I know I need it but I can't just go by everything at once. The heat gun works fine for now.

And I let it dry after each coat for a whe and also hold a small fan by it. I learned the hard way on another job on that haha

I'm fixing to start any last minute help? Please lol

Do you happen know what your durometer on the squeegee is? Is it flexible or really stiff?

Pretty sure it is 70. It is yellow.

Would it matter if I pulled or pushed the squeegee?

RideOutWear said:

Would it matter if I pulled or pushed the squeegee?

Click to expand...

See this, http://www.t-shirtforums.com/t-shirt-articles/t83872.html

The softer the squeegee will push more ink through, but too soft with too low of a screen mesh will cause a mesh. The 70 durometer should be fine. As for pulling or pushing, that's a debate that I'm on the side of pulling works better.