[TableSyrup]

Ok, so I have an older Antec Tracer 6/1
I want it as a 6/6 with Rotary Station, so I'm doing it.
Antec only ever made it a 6/4, so this is one of a kind now

I got a great deal on the press, so I grabbed it, and figured when I had some time I would convert it.
After going through and snugging everything up, and running this thing a bit, I LOVE IT. Registration is on the balls!
So here goes... I'm converting it... since the only downfall so far, is the single fixed station.

So, here is where I am at (The long rant):

I made two plates, Hexagons - 6 sided.
Antec used a single 1/4" hexagon plate for the head assembly, only the heads come off the flats, I am running the arms off the points.

I made 6 arms - of aluminum, to save weight. 1 3/4" x 3" x.1/8" x30" long

I made 6 platens

I bought the same Flange Bearings as Antec did for the head assembly (Colors).
The bearings inner race fits the center shaft.

I am sandwiching the arms between the plates, and one bearing on top and one bearing on bottom.

Now.... I could possibly get away with one plate, and gusseting it... but I figured I may as well just sandwich the suckers. Should be absolutely rock solid with no flex at all this way.

I cut large holes in the center of the plates, large enough that I can flip the top bearing down inside it.... This is needed for clearance from the bearings for the head assembly.

I am basically changing the relation of head to arm by nearly 2 1/2"

Antec used a weird, really tall (2 1/2"), platen mount on their design, and I hate it.
The only cool thing about it is that it mounts through the arm with 1 center bolt which allows you to 'spin' your platens position.... kinda cool when printing difficult location stuff. The downfall is you have to get your tools out to move it - even sometimes a pain with drastic changes in garment sizes.

What I am doing is a more traditional mount.... another tube that fits snugly over the arm, hole with nut welded on - on the right side center, and bottom center.... then I just use some threaded knobs to lock her down. Platens mount directly to this, square with the arms....

For the tricky spin stuff that the Antec mount allowed, I am going to make 1 platen and mount that swivels. It will be slightly more elevated than the standard ones I'm using, but that is easy enough to remedy with a clamp adjustment.
I hadn't thought I'd ever really want this feature.... but a week or so ago when I printed up some shorts, I was glad I had it.... threw a T Shirt screen on the head sideways, spun my platen (everything was 90* turned) and went to town. Didn't have to make another screen or get a different platen. Slick. So I can see the benefit to having this option available.

And on a positive note... when I tear this sucker down to throw the new assembly on, she gets a good sandblasting and powdercoating.
I think this may go down as one heck of a Presstoration? Presstomod? heh heh heh

end rant... for now

Anyway... here's some pics

 

[TYGERON]

I think this may go down as one heck of a Presstoration? Presstomod?
Anyway... here's some pics

Pressimilation?

LOL!

The true essence of the DIY spirit!

 

[ScreenFoo]

That's neat. I'm interested in how it fares on flex--the base looks very solid, and sticks out a lot farther than most index centers do--but at the same time a lot of those have a really thick cross section and are braced. Should be quite acceptable, from the looks of it.

Is the center plate mild steel--just the arms are aluminum?
Bolt through attatchments between them?

 

[sben763]

Table Syrup VERY NICE. that not a rant, more like bragging and I would brag about that nice work

 

[dhoffroad]

cool nice work !

are your print heads all aluminum and do they have micros ? if so can you please post a pic of them. I have a Tracer and its had some work done to the heads and so I was curious to see what a "stock" head looks like but all I can find are heads that are a mix of aluminum and steel....

 

[TableSyrup]

That's neat. I'm interested in how it fares on flex--the base looks very solid, and sticks out a lot farther than most index centers do--but at the same time a lot of those have a really thick cross section and are braced. Should be quite acceptable, from the looks of it.

Is the center plate mild steel--just the arms are aluminum?
Bolt through attatchments between them?

ScreenFoo - No flex.
Two 1/4 Steel Plates.
Arms sandwiched between.
I ran bolts through the top plate, through the arm, through the bottom plate.
Arms are 1/8" thick 1 3/4" x 3" Aluminum (Same as original)
I used two flange bearings so that it can't 'pivot' on the shaft at all.
Thanx

Sben - Thanx

Dhoffroad - Heads are mixed:
Factory is a steel clamp, and there are two heads with newer aluminum clamps.
Everything else in the heads is factory.
Microadjustments, yes.
I will take pics of the print heads tonight.
Thanx

I slapped her in to test the fit today.
My buddy is gonna come back over tonight and help me lift the head assembly back on.
Everything is on the nuts so far.
Couple more things to do - Fab and install my registration gates, make my platen mounts, and shorten the registration bar that attaches to the head assembly
Should have her all buttoned up and functional within a few days

Here are a couple more pics.

Once it's all done and I've ran it a bit, then I'll tear her down, sandblast, and powdercoat.

I love it. Watching it spin was the funnest thing I've done all day...
Other than scoring an old SPS Exposure unit with vacuum lid and dryer base for $110

 

[bern]

Looks great , can't wait to see it after it is all blasted and painted up like new . Think you should call it the mongrel ( as in a brilliant working Dog )

 

[ScreenFoo]

Well, I don't know about NO flex...

You'll have to jig up some dials on the head and try pushing on it once it's together... The Gauntlet here flexes about .025" for my two hundred pounds, I figure that's pretty good, considering no one's dialing up that much pressure. (at least, I certainly hope not)

Sounds like what you did is more than solid enough for sensible use.

 

[TableSyrup]

Ha.
Yeah, nothing noticeable.

I mean, there has to be a minute tolerance in the bearings.. which is why I used a pair... But can't feel anything.

I haven't Hung my 6'7" 240 on it... But see no need. If u gotta push that hard, you need to outsource right

I'm confident so far. Buddy may not make it tonight to help lift the head assembly
Im excited to get it back on and see how it all meshes up. Should be on the nuts.

 

[TableSyrup]

@dhoffroad

Here are some pictures of my printheads.

I have a 6 color.
4 of the heads have original steel clamps.
2 of the heads have newer aluminum clamps.
Other than that the printheads are all factory.

The older steel ones bend open when clamped down too hard, and after tons of use.
The aluminum ones won't, at least I don't think.... it would probably take enough to snap em to get em to move.
I straightened all my steel ones.
I would like to convert to all aluminum ones, so I'll be keeping my eyes peeled, but they are spendy.

Hopefully yours are cleaner than mine

Pics

 

[dhoffroad]

thanks for the pics. yea mine is way diffrent. the style you have is all I can find pics of, but once again thanks. just for the hell of it here is a pic of mine, like I said its all aluminum even the main "center" plates. The "mod" that was done to my press heads are some "blocks" were welded in the arms where I'm guessing there was a hole originaly which would have made a week spot, down by where it mounts to the base.

do you plan on doing any "indexing" for the platen carrousel ? the one that antec uses is prety basic, by the looks of what you've already done you should be able to handle it, if you want I can get you pics of mine.

 

[TableSyrup]

if you want I can get you pics of mine.

Pics would be cool... who knows... what they did may be WAY simpler than what I'm thinking.
I often overcomplicate, and sometimes miss the obvious.

Post some pics... I would appreciate it

I can always learn more

Thanx!

 

[dhoffroad]

ok, so not sure how you set up your bearings as to what is locked on the main shaft coming from the base but if you can have your platens locked on the shaft this set up would work since that is how mine is stock. the base looks like its the same base as mine and the shaft looks to be set up the same also. the pics are taken from under the "top" of the base/stand, the indexing part is bolded up under using the same bolts as the flange bearing. ther eis baicly a spring loaded shaft with a roller bearing falling into a notch that is put into a set collar that is set on the main shaft. here is two pics and a quick drawing I put together to show whats going on even though its prety basic...hope it helps, any questions feel free to ask. oh yea dont mind the cob webs in the pics I guess I need to clean under the press once in a while too...LOL

 

[sben763]

The M&R indexer I think may be easier. Each arm has a v on them and the indexer is on the frame. I can take a pic in the morning if you wish.

 

[TableSyrup]

@dhoffroad

Thanx!

I knew that Antec switched to rotating the shaft on the rotary station setups, but I wasn't really sure why..... I see now that it is because of the indexing.

What I did was rotate everything on the shaft. So my shaft is still stationary. Coulda gone either way I guess.

I was going to make a spring loaded shaft/bearing... pretty much exactly like that.... mount it on the base aiming up at my bottom plate, then just drill holes (Or at least indents) in the plate for the bearing to settle in.... simple detent

@sben763

Yeah, pics would be good. Any ideas or references are helpful.
Thanx!

@ScreenFoo

How did you set up to measure your flex.
I would like to check mine out.
Wondering exactly what method you used.
Doing it the same would give me a good point of reference.
Also, I would need to know the length of your station arms, from center of rotation, to outer edge of arm

Thanx!

 

[sben763]

 

[ScreenFoo]

You might need a pretty "interesting" dial indicator stand--perhaps something really solid you can put next to the arm and put a mag base and indicator on?

I used the platen stop on the Gauntlet and set a mag base so the indicator needle was right behind the platen. So really, if you went all the way out to the end of the platen, it may deflect more like .040 or .050, plus whatever the platen and qr's would flex over that. I'd guess I measured just under four feet out from center--but pushed down my weight from the end of the platen--more like five and a half feet there...

As we were talking about, with sensible use, you can have something pretty loose that still prints OK, with the right touch. Last time I did an oversize print on the old hopkins, I put the box of vinyl inks on the opposite station to keep the platen from dropping. Without it, you can see the platen dropping when you print from across the shop.

 

[TableSyrup]

@ScreenFoo

Haaaaa. From across the shop eh? Quit being so beefy

@sben763

Thanx SO MUCH for the photos!

I like the ball bearing much better. Not a fan of the chunks of angle to make up the V.
But, I think I am going to go with the ball bearing, and drilled and tapered/countersunk indexing points in the bottom plate.

That will work great. Hadn't even thought of using a ball bearing.

 

[sben763]

That's actually a great idea and a improvement over the current design.

I went out to shop and I had a grinder stand that was slightly higher that the platen on my press. Mounted dial indicator to it. I don't have a magnetic base.

 

[cyclesurgeon]

And for a second time in one day someone on the forum makes me feel unworthy...very excellent work!! If only I had an extra 200 sq ft somewhere in the house (other than the crawlspace we have for an attic).