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I use an epson R1800 and use the inks that your supposed to use in it. I do not want to risk ruining it using any other kind but all of my JPSS transfers look faded when I press them on.

Any idea how to fix this?? Thanks!
 

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Find whatever setting that will put more ink down on the transfer. I have the same thing happen but its after awhile and quite a few wash cycles but I found it is just fibers raising from the shirt makes it look faded. BTW its a fruit of the loom shirt thats worse.
 

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I use an epson R1800 and use the inks that your supposed to use in it. I do not want to risk ruining it using any other kind but all of my JPSS transfers look faded when I press them on.

Any idea how to fix this?? Thanks!

What settings are you using to print on JPSS?

Trying using the settings best photo to lay down more ink onto the transfer sheet. Play with the paper types aswell to see which one gives you the best quality. When i was using just regular pigment inks with no custom profiles, I used to select "photo" and "premium photo glossy paper" as my settings.
 

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Watch out tho, as too much ink is really not too good, there's a happy medium. I adjust the contrast and bright settings to depend the blacks/darks, that works well without adding too much saturation to the paper. Good luck. :)
 

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when I first got my epson I used microsoft publisher to do some simple designs just play arround and learn a little, and I found that when I printed out my jpss using that program that the colors were dull looking, so I saved the design as a jpeg and opened it with a photo shop program and it printed out great. I m nowhere near as experience as these guys but this worked for me
 

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me i used combination of ink, Yellow and black is heat transfer pigment ink and magenta and cyan are dye base ink from my epson 1400. It came great...I also recommend double green paper from t-shirtsupplies very vibrant in color but not stretchy than jet-pro.
 

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wutz up everybody ! I got a problem , my images look faded after i heatpress them to my black shirts. im using "opaque ink jet transfer paper" also known as "everlast for darks", and use an epson 1400 printer.Is this paper not good or is ther some kind of setting i need to adjust ? It's driving me crazy ! THANKS.
 

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DTFuqua may be right. With some 100% cotton tees like the Gildan Ultra Cotton 2000, I get this same problem with the fibers raising after 1 or 2 washings. But with other tees like combed cotton, it's not as bad. I use an Epson R280 printer with heat transfer pigment inks but do all adjustments (contrast & saturation) on CS3.
 

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wutz up everybody ! I got a problem , my images look faded after i heatpress them to my black shirts. im using "opaque ink jet transfer paper" also known as "everlast for darks", and use an epson 1400 printer.Is this paper not good or is ther some kind of setting i need to adjust ? It's driving me crazy ! THANKS.

For the opaque/dark papers like Everlast Dark/Ironall Dark, they are a solid sheet of vinyl, so you won't get fibrillation with those transfers (fibrillation = tiny fibers raising up in the image area).

I have experienced what you are experiencing. When the transfer is heated for too long of a dwell time, or the press temp is too hot, the transfer starts to lose it's opaqueness, and starts to become see through.

The setting that works for me is 375*F for 6 seconds. Others here use that setting, too, with success.

Try that to see if you have any better results. Good luck to you. :)
 

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.........The setting that works for me is 375*F for 6 seconds. Others here use that setting, too, with success. :)
Kelly,
I just happen to be reading about JPSS on some sites and what their transfer directions are and they say 30 seconds. Is there really that much of a difference between what the seller recommends and what works?????
Thanks,
Susie
 

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Kelly,
I just happen to be reading about JPSS on some sites and what their transfer directions are and they say 30 seconds. Is there really that much of a difference between what the seller recommends and what works?????
Thanks,
Susie
Susie, it is really one of those things that you just have to find your happy place.. Every press is different. yes the directions say 30 seconds.. But I have even scaled tha back as I found it did not matter by 5 less degrees. It was my happy place.
Lou
 

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Thanks Lou~! I hope I just don't ruin a bunch of stuff with all of this testing but I guess it is what everyone goes through to find our 'happy place'. :)
Susie
 

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I am going to put in my 2 cents about faded look. I change settings in inkjet driver in advanced setting section of the main tab. I click the ICM and Off (No Color Adjustments) check boxes. I get better vibrancy and depth. It is not good for photo though. The print is darker.
 

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Kelly,
I just happen to be reading about JPSS on some sites and what their transfer directions are and they say 30 seconds. Is there really that much of a difference between what the seller recommends and what works?????
Thanks,
Susie
In addition to what Lou said, JPSS and dark papers are like totally different kinds of products to work with.

I also press JPSS for 30 seconds. I use 375*, others use 400*. If you read this thread, http://www.t-shirtforums.com/inkjet-heat-transfer-paper/t61845.html you'll see the really wide variation of times and temps that are working for people.

The dark papers are another beast entirely tho, and too much time or too hot and they lose their color blocking ability, and the shirt starts to show thru.

I was using 360* for 16 seconds with success. Someone else had the problem this poster is also having and Lou recommended 375* for 6 seconds.

I picked that tip right up and adopted it because it was a pain for me to go between 360* for Ironall Dark and then press 375* for JPSS.

Now using the settings Lou uses, I just leave the press at one temp, and life is much easier. There are a few others that also use that setting that mentioned it too, and they report perfect success each time.

Yep, experimenting usually shows what will work for you because of another important thing:

All of our presses may be set for 375*, but in reality, we are all probably running at some variation near that.

Good luck to you.
 

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Kelly,
Ok, I read your post wrong earlier. I thought you were talking of JPSS being 6 seconds. I need to read a little more closely.
Now I understand with the link you gave me and I can see it with other issues it is all a personal thing. :)
Susie
 

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Good, you're welcome, Susie. It's alot to get straight, at first, but you are doing a great job learning it all. I see the questions you ask, and from the difference from when we first met, it's easy to see you are moving thru the learning curve quickly. I remember your first PM's to me, and look at you now! ps: no more shy Susie ;), you go girl! :)

It's true, this process seems pretty simple at first (inkjet heat transfers), and it really kind of is, but there are the little tiny tips that worm their way into an otherwise easy process, and each contribute to a better finished product, so they are worth learning about, at least, to me. :)

I can't wait to see some of your shirts when you start making them, or at least hear how great it was and easy you found it to be... and it really is once you get going. I think once your at the press and doing it, one or two shirts, and you are rolling along. Good luck with it, have fun. :)
 

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Hi Kelly,
I remember back when I first started quilting, machine embroidery, knitting, machine knitting, cake and cookie decorating how it all seemed overwhelming and now I can fly through things pretty well. I still have a lot to learn but we all continue to learn 'if' we want with any hobby!
Thanks for the encouragement and support. You were my first mentor. :) I have so much more to learn and I come to this forum quite often and just read and read.
I did post somewhere about my first time starting up the heat press and giving it a whirl and I posted a link to the two shirts I did. They were just OLD shirts I can throw away and done with the only ink I have at the moment..HP! The white done with a sample of JPSS. The fibers seem to have come up on that one but it is an old shirt and it seems dull. Could be the ink. The black shirt was Alpha Gold and seems heavy but softened up some after the wash.
Here the are:
Photo Sharing by MyPhotoAlbum.com :: Susie's Photos :: Transfer Play
I'm all set to really get into it after Christmas and get my Epson hooked up.
Someone said (sorry can't remember) that I can use my HP Ink with JPSS and it will stay on good.
I have everything (I think).
Thanks again! Happy Holidays,
Susie
 
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Hey, thanks for sharing that link, I didn't see that around...:) They look great. One word of caution, tho, Sues, the Harley bit is trademarked, and they defend it, so when you make shirts, you do have to be careful about what you are making. I'm sorry, I couldn't write and leave that out, as sometimes when folks are new to the process, and you have the power at your fingertips to make whatever you want to, you don't realize the copyright/trademark side yet, just the process, and there are a whole other set of rules to follow when deciding "what" to put on a shirt now that you've learned the "how". That's all from me, but what kind of friend would I be if I didn't mention it and you needed the info? I wish you the best holidays ever and good luck with the Epson. I'm going to "try" to focus on getting those refill carts for my 9400... if you go there we can help the other, whoever goes first in installing. :) All the best, Kelly :)
 

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Kelly,
I know about Harley and all other trademarks. My husbands says there is only a problem if you try to make money off it and if it is just for your own personal use it is ok. I didn't plan on selling it anyway. :) It is the same thing when I do embroidery. Thanks though "friend"!
Yes, it will be interesting to find out how the refills go for the 9400. I'm still trying to learn if the 9400 is able to be reset, refills, cis etc.
Thanks again,
Susie
 

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I am also a bit dissatisfied with the color of the transfer that I print out on JPSS. The red doesn't seem to get that vivid RED and the black is not as "contrast" as I would like it to be.
 
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