[INKOGNEETO]

I've been using the basic $200, 2 bulb Ryonet model for screen exposure. It gives me inconsistent screens, that tapers off on the top and bottom, just a mess. I looked into making my own, and actually converted this unit. I picked up some foam board, made a shelf and ran 294 UV LEDS daisy chained together, basically one full spool. This is what I purchased... https://www.amazon.com/AMARS-Blacklight-Ultraviolet-395nm-405nm-Fixtures/dp/B01L7JEAN0/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_product_top?ie=UTF8https://www.amazon.com/AMARS-Blacklight-Ultraviolet-395nm-405nm-Fixtures/dp/B01L7JEAN0/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_product_top?ie=UTF8

Running the 12V power supply, even on a short strip doesn't give the power brightness I think this needs, so I hooked it up to a 19V power supply, and the brightness gets nice and strong. I'm worried this is wrong. So a couple of questions... Is this set up safe, and do I actually NEED the brighter lights, would the screen expose evenly with the lower 12V adapter? Here's some photos and info...

 

[NoXid]

Volts are not the end all of power. Need to consider volts/amps/watts (well, any two).

V = W / A
W = V * A
A = W / V

The Voltage of the power supply should match the working voltage of the LEDs and the power supply should provide enough Amps to service combined load of all the LEDs plus an extra margin. So you need to know how much power each LED draws and then multiply by the number of LEDs and use a power supply that can provide a bit more than that many Amps at the working voltage of the LEDs.

 

[INKOGNEETO]

Volts are not the end all of power. Need to consider volts/amps/watts (well, any two).

V = W / A
W = V * A
A = W / V

The Voltage of the power supply should match the working voltage of the LEDs and the power supply should provide enough Amps to service combined load of all the LEDs plus an extra margin. So you need to know how much power each LED draws and then multiply by the number of LEDs and use a power supply that can provide a bit more than that many Amps at the working voltage of the LEDs.

Since these can be cut into sections of 3, I assume I would hook up one section of three, and test the output from the tail end? I'm sorry, I'm clueless to this.

 

[NoXid]

Since these can be cut into sections of 3, I assume I would hook up one section of three, and test the output from the tail end? I'm sorry, I'm clueless to this.

Something on or in the package or on LEDs themselves should say how much power they use. Or if something says the LED part number, you can look it up online.

I built some LED panel lights for photography and have a full 5 meter spool leftover. Inside the pack is a sheet about how to choose a power supply. It says the LEDs are 12 volt, so that requires a 12 volt power supply. It says how many watts a meter of strip requires and how many LEDs there are per meter.

So, for example, if your LEDs require 4.8 W per meter, and you are using 5 meters, that = 24 W. But, you want the power supply to have some head room and not be working at 100%, so one would get the next largest power supply above 24 W.

What matters is that the voltage of the power supply and LEDs are an exact match, 12 Volts, for example (note the voltage is the same whether you have one LED or 10-million). And that the wattage of the power supply is larger (at least 15-20%) than the total demand of all the LEDs added together.