T-Shirt Forums banner
1 - 17 of 17 Posts

· Registered
Joined
·
21 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi, everyone i just printed a t-shirt using a pigment ink and a JPSS paper. If i stretch the t-shirt small lines comes up. What i see is that it will be crack in the first wash. Can anyone tell me what i'm doing wrong.
 

· Registered
Joined
·
33 Posts
that is the nature of heat transfer with paper. there are a few papers out there to give a softer feel and reduce cracking. but paper will crack. to reduce cracking make sure your temp is correct for the paper you are using. you can try a higher end paper from coastal business if they still carry it but more than likeky you will get cracking.
 

· Registered
Joined
·
4,158 Posts
One of the problems is people do not stretch the design immediately after pressing. If you let it cool the the ink drys harder and then if you stretch it then it could crack as you say. If you stretch it immediately then you soften the ink and then it should not crack. Also what type of fabric are you placing it on. If it is ribbed and you expect the ink to go into the ribs it will not. it stays on top of the fabric. I don't recommend to my customers they use on ribbed shirts.
 

· Registered
Joined
·
5,448 Posts
Use more pressure but understand the ink isnt plastic nor has it really penetrated the fabric. The ink is sitting on the surface of a polymer substrate such as JPSS and sandwiched between the paper and the area of the weave that directly contacts the paper. You can stretch the paper and the ink is going to move with the paper its attached to. Look close at a tee and understand the weave of the fabric (stretch it without a print), you can see hills and valleys. The same hills and valleys are on ribbed fabrics but much more defined.

When you stretch an inkjet transfer printed tee as you have explained you notice the valleys opening up in the weave. I ran into the same problem initially with JPSS but have increased the pressure where it really isnt much of a problem anymore. I am using 50/50 Gildens right now for all my vinyl and JPSS tees. I have never had the paper crack in the wash and do love the softness after a couple wash cycles.

I would try more pressure and use Lous stretch right after you peel the design. Let us know if any of the suggestions have fixed your problem.
 

· Registered
Joined
·
1,099 Posts
Stretch after pressing as Lou suggested. But David and p.ervin are also correct in that this is just the nature of the beast ... it is going to crack when you stretch, but JPSS should go back to normal when you release.
 

· Registered
Joined
·
62 Posts
Use more pressure but understand the ink isnt plastic nor has it really penetrated the fabric. The ink is sitting on the surface of a polymer substrate such as JPSS and sandwiched between the paper and the area of the weave that directly contacts the paper. You can stretch the paper and the ink is going to move with the paper its attached to. Look close at a tee and understand the weave of the fabric (stretch it without a print), you can see hills and valleys. The same hills and valleys are on ribbed fabrics but much more defined.

When you stretch an inkjet transfer printed tee as you have explained you notice the valleys opening up in the weave. I ran into the same problem initially with JPSS but have increased the pressure where it really isnt much of a problem anymore. I am using 50/50 Gildens right now for all my vinyl and JPSS tees. I have never had the paper crack in the wash and do love the softness after a couple wash cycles.

I would try more pressure and use Lous stretch right after you peel the design. Let us know if any of the suggestions have fixed your problem.
Hi All,
I have had the same problem, and am new to all this. I am using the real paper JPSS and 100% cotton. I test washed a finished shirt and after 5 washes it is cracking and you can scrape off some of the design with your fingernail. I cannot in good conscience sell these shirts. I have my first show on Sunday. I have a HIX 600d press. I have had trouble setting the pressure since the first day I got it. I am wondering how hard should it be to change the pressure? I am not sure because I have never done this before. They told me on the phone a quarter of a turn should do. I have to turn so slowly it took me forever to get it correct. I then did a stock transfer and it said to increase pressure, so I tried to do a slight turn, and now I have no pressure and ruined a nice shirt. Does it sound like something is wrong with the press or me? I cannot get the tension back, slight turn after slight turn eventually leads to a rotation after slight rotation. For the money this machine cost, I think it should be easier to set the tension. It shouldn't take me 40 min. to get it right. Yes I am turning it in the right direction-big sticker w/arrows on top. It has seemed like the bolt was stripped since the day I got it. I called and they assured me it was me. Any tips would be appreciated. How much of a turn does everyone else do to increase pressure from medium to heavy?
P.S. I bought the press new
 

· Registered
Joined
·
5,448 Posts
If you turn the knob at least two full rotations and still cant get any pressure you may have a problem. A problem unless the pressure knog is backed so far off that two turns doesnt do it. Keep turning the knob with the press open one full rotation and try closing until you notice pressure. Basically the press will get harder to close. You can inspect the threads and also see if the bolt is actually moving down the threads. Make sure you are adjusting the pressure with the press open.
 

· Registered
Joined
·
62 Posts
If you turn the knob at least two full rotations and still cant get any pressure you may have a problem. A problem unless the pressure knog is backed so far off that two turns doesnt do it. Keep turning the knob with the press open one full rotation and try closing until you notice pressure. Basically the press will get harder to close. You can inspect the threads and also see if the bolt is actually moving down the threads. Make sure you are adjusting the pressure with the press open.
Thanks,
I twisted it about six full rotations and got some pressure. I am going to see if it will work. I had only turned it two slight turns to loosen it. When I look down the center, inside the handle, there are two nuts one on top of the other at the base of the bolt. They are together at the base and stay that way. Is that correct, or should one be rising up and down the bolt? There is very little tension when I turn the knob.

Thanks again
 

· Premium Member
Joined
·
7,895 Posts
For pressure, when I first got my Might Press, I had to rotate the knob at least a half a dozen times to get it to where it was even applying *any* pressure to the upper platen. These things must not *arrive* set up in anyway.

I repeatedly turned the knob a full rotation, closed the press, checked pressure. I continued one rotation at a time, closing the press each time, to see how hard it was to close. At one point, I did reach a point where it was very difficult for me to close the press - even with 2 hands. To me, I found the upper end of the highest pressure.

I know my press warranty states any damage caused by too much pressure will not be covered in my warranty, so I figured going to that upper range of high pressure was what I decided I want to avoid. From there, I found a place that I felt was med-high pressure, safely below the area that could damage parts, but apply enough pressure to get the job done.

There is no science to it. Just a gut feeling, and then how the shirts looks and wash after being pressed.

I have absolutely no problems with my finished products, so I figure things must be going okay.


Rhonda is absolutely right, imo, that when you open the weave by stretching, you will see the white lines, but when you release the stretch, it should return to normal. That's what makes JPSS better than other papers. Other papers, once cracked, do not heal themselves, they stay cracked looking.

In addition to stretching the shirt right after a hot peel to open the weave and re-pressing with teflon to re-set the ink... in addition to that - I also give the shirt a gentle pre-stretch *before* I do the pre-press to remove moisture. A few other folks do this, and we seem to feel it opens the weave even *before* the first press applies the ink. Some folks also think it's helps open the weave to remove the moisture better.

So I stretch the shirt, pre-press the shirt to remove moisture, peel hot, stretch the shirt, repress the shirt, and I have no issues with cracking. Even when I stretch the shirt a bit, the white weave is not that bad, and it doesn't show until you really stretch it.

To me, the white weave showing is even less then when you only stretch the shirt *after* the first press. It could be the brand shirts I use. Shirts make a big difference, but this is what I've seen. Once in a while when I comment on doing a pre-stretch, a few folks who also do this agree it helps even more... so, it's an experiment for anyone else out there who wants to try their luck with that extra pre-stretch as well. :)

Prometheus said:
Another question: How much are you stretching it? If you put your foot inside the shirt and pull up hard with both hands, then you may see some cracking.
Lol.
 

· Registered
Joined
·
62 Posts
For pressure, when I first got my Might Press, I had to rotate the knob at least a half a dozen times to get it to where it was even applying *any* pressure to the upper platen. These things must not *arrive* set up in anyway.

I repeatedly turned the knob a full rotation, closed the press, checked pressure. I continued one rotation at a time, closing the press each time, to see how hard it was to close. At one point, I did reach a point where it was very difficult for me to close the press - even with 2 hands. To me, I found the upper end of the highest pressure.

I know my press warranty states any damage caused by too much pressure will not be covered in my warranty, so I figured going to that upper range of high pressure was what I decided I want to avoid. From there, I found a place that I felt was med-high pressure, safely below the area that could damage parts, but apply enough pressure to get the job done.

There is no science to it. Just a gut feeling, and then how the shirts looks and wash after being pressed.

I have absolutely no problems with my finished products, so I figure things must be going okay.


Rhonda is absolutely right, imo, that when you open the weave by stretching, you will see the white lines, but when you release the stretch, it should return to normal. That's what makes JPSS better than other papers. Other papers, once cracked, do not heal themselves, they stay cracked looking.

In addition to stretching the shirt right after a hot peel to open the weave and re-pressing with teflon to re-set the ink... in addition to that - I also give the shirt a gentle pre-stretch *before* I do the pre-press to remove moisture. A few other folks do this, and we seem to feel it opens the weave even *before* the first press applies the ink. Some folks also think it's helps open the weave to remove the moisture better.

So I stretch the shirt, pre-press the shirt to remove moisture, peel hot, stretch the shirt, repress the shirt, and I have no issues with cracking. Even when I stretch the shirt a bit, the white weave is not that bad, and it doesn't show until you really stretch it.

To me, the white weave showing is even less then when you only stretch the shirt *after* the first press. It could be the brand shirts I use. Shirts make a big difference, but this is what I've seen. Once in a while when I comment on doing a pre-stretch, a few folks who also do this agree it helps even more... so, it's an experiment for anyone else out there who wants to try their luck with that extra pre-stretch as well. :)



Lol.
Thanks for the info-I actually printed out your directions on pre-pressing and did that. I will post press too. I am glad to know someone else had to turn that knob so many times.
 
1 - 17 of 17 Posts
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top