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Plastisol requires curable reducer to thin. Yes water will ruin it

Mix it and even warm it up. Put tub in a bucket of warm water then mix and change water. Repeat if nessary if you. Have something to print now

Ryonet white has a lot of false body. Mixing and warming will help. I have used it strait up before.
 
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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Plastisol requires curable reducer to thin. Yes water will ruin it

Mix it and even warm it up. Put tub in a bucket of warm water then mix and change water. Repeat if nessary if you. Have something to print now

Ryonet white has a lot of false body. Mixing and warming will help. I have used it strait up before.
It prints just fine, but it gets stuck on the side of the squeegee that i have to get an ink card to get it down and out on the screen again. I'll try warming it up and mixing it. Thanks
 

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I use 10-15% curable reducer and 10-15% soft hand additive but never add more than 20% total combined.
 

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anyone else use a spade bit to whip up their ink? I saw this on r jennings tutorials and have had it work pretty effectively....I thought of using a blender or something but the clean up seemed to offset the benefit
 

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Just stir till your arm feels like it gonna fall off. To much Curable reducer can happen pretty quick.
I stir by hand also. I will agree too much can happen that's why I mix both curable reducer and soft hand which although soft hand does thin some, nothing like curable reducer and gives the ink a much better feel. ***NOTE***. I recommend always using a scale when mixing. That way when you find what % works for you can be consistent.

Although with the curable reducer too much is just over thinning ink, there is some cool stuff that can be done. Check out some of they videos by Graphic Elephants on YouTube. They mix 50%CR and 50% white and even as much as 80%CR for some cool effects. It will take longer to cure. I have even tried printing 100% CR.
 

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I just printed some shirts today using the Ryonet white for the first time, I had to mix a little Mineral Spirits into it to get to where I could work with it. Also I think I screwed up and used a 156 mesh screen instead of a 110 mesh making it even more difficult to work with. I bought all my screens used so not all of them are marked with the mesh count. At first I wasn't sure if the ink was old and had gone bad or if it's supposed to have the consistency of 40 year old axle grease
 

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Brian mineral spirits is not a good thing to reduce plastisol inks with. I highly recommend you wash 1 of those garments several times if they are for a customer. I have seen first hand them wash out after 3 washings when a employee used mineral spirits to reduce ink. He was new and told me he had done this before. Needless to say I had to eat 50 shirts reprint them and gave the customer a 20% discount on the next order. I don't have anyone print for me anymore. He was suppose to be experienced the curable reducer sits right next to the white in the new ink cabinet. Curable reducer is only 35-45 a gal depending on brand and supplier. To me not worth the chance using anything else.
 
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Brian mineral spirits is not a good thing to reduce plastisol inks with. I highly recommend you wash 1 of those garments several times if they are for a customer. I have seen first hand them wash out after 3 washings when a employee used mineral spirits to reduce ink. He was new and told me he had done this before. Needless to say I had to eat 50 shirts reprint them and gave the customer a 20% discount on the next order. I don't have anyone print for me anymore. He was suppose to be experienced the curable reducer sits right next to the white in the new ink cabinet. Curable reducer is only 35-45 a gal depending on brand and supplier. To me not worth the chance using anything else.
thanks for information, I'll wash one the extra prints several times to make sure it holds up before delivering the order. I only added a small amount so hopefully it will hold up. I'll order some new ink and correct reducer.

I'm new to screen printing shirts, I did work at a sign company screen printing signs and we used mineral spirits to thin the ink, I can't remember the type of ink but that was 15 years ago!
 

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solvent ink for signs and mineral spirits is the corect reducer for that ink. I like the Ryonet white but i takes a lot of stiring to break down the false body in the ink. I aslo will warm it if not at 80 degrees in the shop by dropping the container of ink into a bucket of water between 90-100F then mixing a few times changing the water as needed. I now when getting the ink mix reducer at 10% soon as I get it. helps to make it easier to mix the next time and if I need more depending on the job ill add some. I also like using soft hand additive with it and most my other colors also but I like the feel of it and is more of a personal prefrence but soft hand is also cheap. I think of it this way by adding it extends the ink and is chaeper that the ink but adding too much you will loose opacity to the ink. Good luck
 
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