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There no such thing as a free lunch. I think its up to each individual to decide based on their skill level to buy or not to buy. A controller is just a controller. Building a DIY DTG has so many components. If someone selling a controller to speed up DIY DTG then so be it as it speeds up building the DIY machine. I think people understand that there are cost involved in creating/programming this controller its not easy to share it as copycats will resell it as their own.
 
Discussion starter · #4,743 ·
There no such thing as a free lunch. I think its up to each individual to decide based on their skill level to buy or not to buy. A controller is just a controller. Building a DIY DTG has so many components. If someone selling a controller to speed up DIY DTG then so be it as it speeds up building the DIY machine. I think people understand that there are cost involved in creating/programming this controller its not easy to share it as copycats will resell it as their own.
The absolute smartest process is building a manual dtg printer first! you learn so much in the process, with an understanding of the mechanics/function. The controller makes it a lot more simple but you miss out on the education portion of building manual machine. It can make you pull your hair out but worth it in the end. It will also give you a great print quality control benchmark using the friction drive method (all original pitch parameters)

Once you move to a controller you have set expectations already formed. regardless of what anyone tells you not all controllers are created equal its one of the single most important pieces (the brain) It affects everything from print quality to reliability within a dtg machine, there is a plethora of different operating principles that can be incorporated into them. this is evident even with commercial machines - you can have several manufactures using the same print engine which have all different levels of acclaim and reliability.

I suggest building manual first to learn the operating principles.
 
The T-Dozer looks really nice & will designed.
A few "?";s on the R2000 (Sorry I know you don't like it)
Cover switch wire to the front, is it the senor on the Epson control panel?
High Vot board under the wireless still used? Can it be mounted closer or just ext, the 4 wires?
Don't have the black plug to jump

 
Discussion starter · #4,745 ·
The T-Dozer looks really nice & will designed.
A few "?";s on the R2000 (Sorry I know you don't like it)
Cover switch wire to the front, is it the senor on the Epson control panel?
High Vot board under the wireless still used? Can it be mounted closer or just ext, the 4 wires?
Don't have the black plug to jump

Thanks... No im not a fan of the R2000. I think you would be better served investing into a newer printer like the r3000/p600. Remember you will need rip software/ inkcarts that you will have to buy again once you switch it to the better printer! better to start right off with newest engine!

The cover open sensor is the slot on the front top center, when you close the cover a mechanical switch is activated. you would cut it at the front just behind the sensor. not sure the polarity off hand, but there is one so you will have to temp connect it to verify its working if its not switch the polarity (yes its a short wire from the sensor to the control panel, it travels thru the flat cable back to the board from there) refer to the service manual for its location if you have trouble. I always keep the high vot, i think you can just disconnect on the earlier models without error, but check to verify. your choice on moving or extending if you keep it will work either way.
 
Thank you, cover switch is on the left side as looking from the front, remover the other one which went down the right side, Do I need to short it ( join the wires ) or just leave it off?
Cover switch has Black NEG (=) & White POS (+), need to know your board polarity top & botton or the blue marking.

This should do it, just wire the table up!

Tyler Smith on facebook is no help at all, just keeps going in circles.
 
Discussion starter · #4,747 · (Edited)
Thank you, cover switch is on the left side as looking from the front,, remover the other one which went down the right side.
Has Black NEG (=) & White POS (+), need to know your board polarity top & botton or the blue marking.
The other sensor (front door sensor) coming off the control you will need to jump/solder if i remember correctly on the R2000, like i said previously you can simply reverse the wires to check polarity of the cover open sensor. This is why we prefer the new machines because the wiring isn't the same on the r2000 which we don't support/don't market it for use with the R2000. we cover it in the vids for the 3000/600 on the t-dozer board, Its all the same concept, just not many people use the R2000 for dtg with better options, so it isn't worth supporting in that aspect. hope it helped.

update on the tdozer control board CN5 you will see 2 pins/ one has the word cover next to it this is the positive on the control board. you will need to find the polarity on the epson cover open sensor (don't go by the wiring color) simplest way is to hook it up and check, since we dont support the r2000 for conversion its up to you to find that out (also a R2000 service manual with wiring schematic will answer that also).
 
It moves!!!!!!!!!! The cover sw & other senor has not been wired yet.
Looking good so far. GOOD BOARD
However the limit switch work moving the table forward. Wired top & bottom of limited SW.
Boots up to the 2 red blinking light so put in no ink cart
 
Discussion starter · #4,749 · (Edited)
It moves!!!!!!!!!! The cover sw & other senor has not been wired yet.
Looking good so far. GOOD BOARD
However the limit switch work moving the table forward. Wired top & bottom of limited SW.
Boots up to the 2 red blinking light so put in no ink cart
Thank you:D correct function will still depend on you wiring those sensors on the printer correctly regarding polarity!

I still suggest you use the P600! The R2000 is antiquated in comparison. your on the way! Hopefully you can document your process using the R2000 pictures/videos etc. This will help others who might want to use the older f2000.
 
I started this DIY DTG 3 years ago & have the R2000 (3 of them) on hand.
Maybe in the future I can move up to the P600, but I want to see this thing working before I do.
The extra cash for the P600 CISS is small.There will be videos & picture coming up soon.
The table moves forward then I hit the limited sw & it move to the rear, backwards I think.
The 2 red lights are still on, Have change the cover wires around & make no differentiation.
 
Discussion starter · #4,751 ·
I started this DIY DTG 3 years ago & have the R2000 (3 of them) on hand.
Maybe in the future I can move up to the P600, but I want to see this thing working before I do.
The extra cash for the P600 CISS is small.There will be videos & picture coming up soon.
The table moves forward then I hit the limited sw & it move to the rear, backwards I think.
The 2 red lights are still on, Have change the cover wires around & make no differentiation.
Yes, that's how the T-Dozer board works on power up platen goes slowly to the rear limit switch (homes itself like a cnc machine to get its position) after that it will eject the platen to the front of the machine. means the board is operating properly. you will still need to insure the conversion portion of the printer is properly done and wired correctly with its sensors. Once you get that done you can test with a trial version of rip software. Sounds like the printers have been sitting a long time hopefully you have no clogs... best of luck:)

P.S all the ink chips i have ever used on a R2000 were finicky and unreliable, as i mentioned previously. not to mention the crazy ink reset process and dance it does...that's a whole other battle you will encounter and a big reason i don't like it for dtg.
 
Can someone post a link to exactly which videos you are talking about here (the latest ones, Epson conversion). I've searched back but its kind of confusing in such a long thread.
I'm sorry, it's my Epson2000 build build using German 13 new T-DOZER controller. Found the easiest way to get in touch with German is here.

This is my build with the R2000

http://www.t-shirtforums.com/diy-dtg/t623457.html
 
German13, in the video you jumper a black plug at the bottom outside of the board. What was it for & do I need to find it on the R2000 & jump it.
Also do I remove the senor on the bottom of the print head, which I did but there is also another board in there.
 
Discussion starter · #4,758 ·
German13, in the video you jumper a black plug at the bottom outside of the board. What was it for & do I need to find it on the R2000 & jump it.
Also do I remove the senor on the bottom of the print head, which I did but there is also another board in there.
skip,
like i said previously the P600/R3000 is a completely different printer mainboard with additional sensors so it will not be like your r2000, do not pay attention to the sensors i jumped in that video, yours is different in location.

If you don't have an R2000 service manual you will need to get one to make yourself familiar with the parts and sensor name types.

On your R2000 yes you will need to remove the PW-Sensor from the print head and leave the Ink mark-Sensor.

You will also need to either disconnect or jump your CDR-sensor. Its the mechanical switch that plugs into the control panel that goes to a mechanical switch when the front cd door tray is opened in stock form. I cant remember off hand on the r2000 if it can be simply unplugged or jumped, so you will need to check this yourself. you want it to be in the position that it is not open for printing cds.
 
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