I'd like to know what others are using to "flush the system". Just curious.
Thanks Terry. I'm also using www.inkjetcarts.us cleaning fluid. From what I've read on most of the MSDS for DTG cleaning fluid it's 80-98% water and the rest is Propylene Glycol and Ethylene Glycol. I'm no chemist but it seems like we could make this stuff ourselves. I thought I remember Mr. German pondering this at one point in the thread.
I just finished my 1400 build a few weeks ago and did my first print using Photoshop and inkjet ink. The print was pretty light (weak) but proved the build was spot on. It wasn't until I printed using EK RIP demo that I could see the real power of this DTG. The level of ink control is amazing! German13 was right. The RIP makes all the difference. I highly recommend requesting a demo from Chris at Eukon Digital. The email is [email protected]. Hope this helps.Hi a few questions for you experts, About how often should I use my head cleaning fluid ? And what are the steps to do so when I have a Damper CISS.
I am using an Epson 1400 DTG
Next question is I don't know if its the ink or whatever but it seems pretty light compared to others ?
I'm using Resolute ink , and the color isn't very vibrant or solid on white.
Is there a certain color management profile in Photoshop I should be using? The colors are not coming out very accurately
*I only print on white shirts, therefore im not using a RIP *
try this. http://www.iproofsystems.com/download/PRISManual.PDF It is for powerrip but ...Also, I do have a Rip Lying around called "AcroRip 7.0.9"
It didn't come with a manual or anything , does anyone know how to work this?
I'm using 100% epson firmware with only some wiring modifications (rerouting) at the board as explained previously. everything required to do this build was purchased at lowes home improvement store with the exception of the plastic base (which can be substituted) and the printer itself of course..
there is the cluebook at the diydtgwiki.com site... you should find the info your looking for there, it uses all original parts with exception to the pe sensor which can be substituted with many different options... best of luckSorry for Being a lay, but I did not find information on how the wiring Modifications (rerouting), to solve the problem with the PE sensor.
German Thanks for the reply.there is the cluebook at the diydtgwiki.com site... you should find the info your looking for there, it uses all original parts with exception to the pe sensor which can be substituted with many different options... best of luck
If Im understanding you correctly your triggering the pe by hand? If this is indeed the case, this is not what you want to do! the pe needs to be set up permanately and fixed underneath and just in front of the platen!! this will assure that you get a successful print time and again... just as it is set upon the printer in its stock form, you are only relocating the sensor to accomodate the platen.. like i said aswell you will need to substitute the pe in order to return the platen "drawer style" to the print position... if you gander thru the threads you will find alot of info on this.. regardsGerman Thanks for the reply.
In fact did not change the wires ... Only the PE sensor was changed from place ...
But I still have problem.
I'm starting training Diy DTG with one Epson 1280, the sensors are the same.
The ASF sensor I had cut and make short. The PE sensor I triggers manually. I can initialize the printer, but when I send a job to print, sometimes I have sucess, and sometimes give me a fatal error.
When I'm successful in the first printing, in the second printing, give me a fatal error.