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Discussion Starter · #3,801 · (Edited)
i do not see a dark shirt pretreat on this sight. am i looking at the right site??
Pretreatment

chuck you will need your heat press for this stage also to cure the pretreat pre and post print.. this is a stage where you will have to practice till you get it right an automotive top feed paint sprayer (hvlp) that uses compressed air works great for applying the pretreat or a wagnor power sprayer as the second choice...

you can use a hand spray bottle but its alot harder to get a good consistent pretreat on the shirts this way..
 

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i know this isnt the 1100 thread but i just printed with the dtg ink for the first time. it looks great on white but i throw the white underbase on it and it looks like hammered dog poooooo!!! here is the pics of what i am talking about. maybe someone has experienced this?? the one with the green is the one with the white underbase, it is a green shirt. the other is the original image
Thats great, your are at least getting it to print, now it's just a matter of tweaking it, are you getting it to print on demand or it is still hit or miss..keep us updated and keep up the good work:)
How about a video of the complete printing process..
 

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Hi everyone I haven't been here for a few days and i notice the subject is pre-treating at the mo. After Jeff's not so wonderfull recent experiences it got me thinking. Most peolple seem to agree this is a crucial stage in achieving good white coverage, and that it takes a while to get good enough to get anything like consistant results.

Anyway last night I began to tear the stepper motors logic boards and just about everything else out of a very old and near worthless Vinyl cutter and attempt to use the parts as the base for an automatic pretreatment machine. LOL. LOL .LOL

Its actually looking like it might WORK!!!!!!

I am planning to use an airbrush style mini compressor, I will put the shirt in manually and the drive system from the cutter will move the gun across the shirt. Hopefully achieving an even coverage. Like many comercial machines the speed of the movement will hopefully enable some control of coverage. I plan to use a similar system to the platen sensor to get a solenoid to activate and deactivate the manual trigger on the gun itself.

Interested in your opinions on the theory. If anyones interested I could post some pics but its early stages and it will be constructed out of scrap i have lying around.
 

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Chucky I am curious could I ask how the underbase looked before the colour was printed???

Sorry forget the above I just read the rest of the posts, Must be tired)
it looked strange, almost like water sitting on top of the shirt and not soaking in. i dont know what it looks like with the pretreat on it so its hard to say if it looked anything close to right.
 

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Wow. This thread is really moving at light speed.

i was just curious how much it would cost to shop brojames a printer so i looked on ups, i cant figure out there site! i found out that it would go fto SIQUIJOR, 6230 PHILIPPINES , From: FORT COLLINS, 80525 UNITED STATES in 10 days but i dont see anywhere that says cost?? hmmm
UPS would be expensive. The cheapest way is by a "balikbayan box" whihc is designed for overseas workers shipping items home. I think the shipping is lower if you have the box full but taxes is waived so you pay a minimal fee. Still, I am not sure how much would be saved.

Siquijor is an island, a tourist spot, about 1-1/2 hours south of Manila by plane. Plus maybe 3-4 hours for the waiting.

spot on, and one of the major reasons im hesitating on complete builds.. shipping is a major problem no matter how its packed/crated/bubble wraped etc...

its a monster customer service headache..:eek:
Even fedex just throws packages around.

Shipping abroad by either ups or fedex is going to be about 200-300. Plus, he would have to pay customs taxes. In my country it is 16% at least. Not really a solution.
Shipping cost is a major problem. I really hate how business is being done here and what is being done to "refurbished" printers here. All printers sold are brand new.
 

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:mad:just when you can it cant get any worse, been playin with the sensor and i kept going into a head cleaning mode which kept charging the inks or should i say wasting my inks it went thru that process so many times that now on start up getting the solid green light along with the ink light which i believe means im out of ink..i had just got ekrip installed, my platen was secured down and was hoping to just see something and BAMM out ink..really dont know which way to go now because i was hoping to get it all figured out then order the inks that i need along with the ciss..im so close but yet so far..
 

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i am having problems, my computer wont read the printer now. i thought it might have been ekrip error but i hooked up my other 1100 and it worked fine. i dont know if there is something that i could have done but if anyone has any ideas let me know please.
 

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i am having problems, my computer wont read the printer now. i thought it might have been ekrip error but i hooked up my other 1100 and it worked fine. i dont know if there is something that i could have done but if anyone has any ideas let me know please.
Sorry to ask a stupid IT question... Did you reboot the computer? Else check the cable.

Bob ?;O)
 

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Sorry to ask a stupid IT question... Did you reboot the computer? Else check the cable.

Bob ?;O)
ive tried everything, i rebooted, uninstalled, everything. i dont know what is going on. it works when it wants to. its weird because sometimes i push print it shoots the platen out about 6 in, then just goes to green again. i push print again and it prints sometimes. then other times it goes strait to fatal error. i dont know whats going on.
 

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Hello Chucky,

Try to check your platen has a good contact with your drive rod, less friction is not good and also your belt, not too loose and not to tight. Have you tried to print in text mode only? Do not trip the PE sensor before clicking "print", it is should be in close before you click print.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3,818 · (Edited)
Hey Guys,

Just wanted to post that i just got an email from Chris @ eukondigital.com A.K.A EKRIP...

he has informed me that he has a new version of Ek rip for the WF1100 that will be available soon.. It will be a CMYK-W configuration.. This will be ready for trial very soon... It seems that many users prefer the cmyk over the xtra white channel... this should make the rips use like all the others with very few adjustments if any and you will get the blacks you are used to without hassel!!!!:):D;)

Additionally i will be "looking into" converting the epson into a direct to screen printer.. attempting to do modifications that will allow printing directly to a coated screen.. this may be useful for anyone who allso does a little screen printing!! it will save a ton on film!!!
 

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to a coated screen ?
Would it still need exposure and wash out ?:confused:

Or coated ,the ink drys, is waterproof then washout first then flip it over and uv cure ? Would the ink survive the washout?

Your the man Mr German , Do it, I want:D

Return to lurk learn mode ;)
 
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