so the REAL question is, since i just bought the 3.5 version of the ekrip software that is made for the 1900, did i waist my money since it sounds like the 2000 is a better machine and 1900 discontinued?? please say i didnt since i havent bought a printer yet, just the software and a few other things anticipating the build!
Mission accomplished "license to thrill"
[DIY DTG]
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9 Posts
I'm sure they will have a upgrade for it. The reset chips are what will take some time.
what is the price of 2000 print head
when i mean textile ink i would say the white ink is the real problem.
yeah might have been a mistake but i already ordered it. i hope i can pull it off or i am just waisting more money working my way toward a divorce! no, i dont think she would leave me for it, wait, yes i do
I musta got lost in the shuffle...
I'm sure I have probably missed this somewhere but, I am not sure where the ASF goes. We started out with FE's videos and now we're winging it with the clue book v2. Thanks again!
Sorry I forgot to add that we are doing the 1400 build. Oh yeah German, the cork idea helped immensley. It is a step at a time with this for sure.
I'm sure I have probably missed this somewhere but, I am not sure where the ASF goes. We started out with FE's videos and now we're winging it with the clue book v2. Thanks again!
Sorry I forgot to add that we are doing the 1400 build. Oh yeah German, the cork idea helped immensley. It is a step at a time with this for sure.
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3,216 Posts
its a piezo head.. the liquid being dispersed doesnt matter as long as the correct viscosity is met and the liquid is not destructive to the head.. In this case both inks are waterbased so theres no issue
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3,216 Posts
I musta got lost in the shuffle...
I'm sure I have probably missed this somewhere but, I am not sure where the ASF goes. We started out with FE's videos and now we're winging it with the clue book v2. Thanks again!
Sorry I forgot to add that we are doing the 1400 build. Oh yeah German, the cork idea helped immensley. It is a step at a time with this for sure.
Im confident there is no better friction material when using friction drive than cork.. Cork has a high friction coefficient and thus why the material is used in everything from clutches to brake pads..
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I'm sure cork would have to wear well if it's used in brakes but using regular cork it makes me wonder how well it will wear. I used neoprene.
Im confident there is no better friction material when using friction drive than cork.. Cork has a high friction coefficient and thus why the material is used in everything from clutches to brake pads..
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Print heads are hard to get from Epson or a service center. They want the serial number of your printer for you to be able to buy one. They are not keen on DTG printers since they don't sell any ink. There is huge profit in ink cartridges for them. By the time you buy 2 sets of ink cartridges you spend enough to buy a new printer. I've seen printheads sold for as much as $890 and as low as $300-$400 for the R2000. Some won't even sell a print head unless you pay them to install it.
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3,216 Posts
Cork wears well!! hence cork floors etc
I know i mentioned clutch material aswell
we tested with the neoprene as well i work with plastics and synthetics frequently.. I like the cork because it has all the properties required and is natural not sure if your aware but most neoprene has litharge in it which is toxic.. however in this application its not a big issue, but natural is good!!
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3,216 Posts
Most of the veterans know this all to well...thats why you buy the whole printer r2000 for around 400 ish and pull the head!! its a win win situation head plus parts
you will not find this deal anywhere and alot of folks do exactly that and resell them for 200/300 profitIf you buy them as a refurb from epson its even cheaper!!! the printhead reseller makes a good living from anyone whom prints white dtg ink from an epson
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3,216 Posts
The asf mod has to go close to the electronics if theres no wiring extentions done.. on the v3 its right behind the printer with the electronics.. on the v1 below in the left side panel...
Okay So i am super new.. and I have been reading over the posts... So is there a thread that tells me what exactly to buy and how to put it together.... Also I am located in chicago? any one near willing to sit down or PM or just show me how I can start printing my own shirts.. Im super passionate and will do what ever it takes.. THANKS ALL and LIVE FOREVER!!!
Checkout diydtgwiki.com there is a ton of documentation that you should read before building your own printer. At the very least you should read the T-dozer clue book, both the V2 and V3 versions (http://diydtg.wikispaces.com/Plans) and the first 2 chapters of the service manual of the printer you are going to be using for your build. Best of luck.
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1,251 Posts
The pros are 1) Quick delivery 2) No screens or cleanup to mess with. 3) The satisfaction of building it yourself. 4) Saving big bucks. The type of T-shirt maker is someone who has a market for short quick runs or a hacker who just wants to have fun...
Bob ?;O)
hey any one got good pics of how they mounted the asf mod for v3 t dozer were it goes on top of printer behind electronics not in bottom right corner like in v1 version
i built my base following v2 plans but i will use v3 pe sensor so no groove cut in my platen etc
any pics would help alot
regards daz
not in bottom right corner like in v1 version i built my base following v2 plans but i will use v3 pe sensor so no groove cut in my platen etc
any pics would help alot
regards daz
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2,857 Posts
The asf mod on the V3 is a little different. Much smaller. It is mounted to the outside of the electronics metal housing which is mounted high and to the back of printer. It bolts to the outside of the tray and behind the are where all the ribbon cables mount. So the short ribbon cable can reach the board. This ribbon cable is the same size that goes to the control panel. I.e. The on off panel. If you have a spare you can use this longer cable vs the short PITA one.
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