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Carefull placement of all the parts and pieces will mean not having to get longer flat cables. The togle switch refered to I believe is for the PE sensor and I belieeve there are three wires to that particular sensor and I also think the blaack one is the one needs the togle switch as a "kill" switch to use when turning the printer on and off. Check deeper cause I could be wronf .
 

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OKay almost done./...

I just need a little help on this next step.


Where to put the ASF , does it need to be next to a sensor?

Also what does this red tip wire do?



My drive motor can't reach the drive rod, i need to extend





Also i want to mount the PE sensor so that the bottom of the platen touches it , like in schenks build but how to do that?
 

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Discussion Starter · #2,931 · (Edited)
thought i post some links for a few new printers manufactured by direct color systems..

Both these printers are solvent/eco/mild solvent printers... this should interest those who have interest in printing ecosolve ink to a screened white underbase... look closely at the pictures and you will notice it has the original r1900 control panel directly on the printer.. the specs for the head are the epson dx5..;)

one of the printers sells as a package thru sign warehouse as a print cut package with lots of stuff for under 6000... They say the cappping station is a replaceable part and im sure those researching this ave will find alot of valuable info and parts for replacement;)

Features.html


[media]http://www.directcolorsystems.com/downloads/Direct-Jet/DCS-Direct-Jet-2-17.pdf[/media]

PrismJet VJ48 Ecosolvent Wide Large Format Color Printer
 

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Discussion Starter · #2,933 · (Edited)
can anyone give a quick description of the sensors functions and where they should be placed?
It would be very hard to give a "quick" description of sensors and where they should be placed.. it would take several pages of posts to explain this, if your new to the build your best starting point is to read the epson service manual for the particular printer.. the concept is the same for all current desktop epsons...

you also have the clue book avail on colorfingers wiki or within this thread here on page 39 post 583 ish... your best off reading the entire thread/s from beginning to end for all the trials and tribulations of the build/s and the best methods for each with input from several builders whom have completed working builds:) best advice i can give..

it not only contains build info but user experience with dtg, you may find its not best for what you need to achieve and would save you lots of time and effort $$, if this in fact the case... you will also have a learning curve with the rip and/ciss systems/white ink printing/pretreat process etc.. i dont want anyone to think this is push a button profit because its certainly not.. in fact we have found screen printing a better profit margin/ process for what we are after.. this of course after traveling the hard road of the diydtg build and thinking its easy street. read as much as you can throughout the forum on the different processes and user opinions...

best of luck...;)
 

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Discussion Starter · #2,934 ·
I was wondering if anyone has ran white ink thru all channels of the wf1100? the wf1100 has a minimum drop size nearly three times larger than the 1400/1800/1900/4800 its roughly 4 picoliter compared to 1.5 of the other printers.. so its drop size is similar to the older 2200 models..

I was thinking of using the 1100 to print the white ink it just being over 100 dollar printer and could be tossed possibly a back to back printer setup or a keyed platen... i was thinking of testing this before ditching the "INKJET" epson format alltogether due to the white ink clogging issues for the low volume printer...

Im wondering if it will fare better against white ink clog? anybody willing to run a trial of white ink thru there 1100?:confused: possibly doing a diary of sorts and letting it sit a few days and bumping up the time of no use until it clogs and is unable to be cleared:confused: Its seems the 1100 would have the best chances of surviving the longest due its drop size, and being the cheapest could be tossed without worry when clogged...
 

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can anyone give a quick description of the sensors functions and where they should be placed?
The only sensor that you need to be moving is the PE sensor. It should be before the platen tray. The placement is shown in the clue book and multiple places in the forums. What model are you working with?

Bob ?;O)
 

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I was wondering if anyone has ran white ink thru all channels of the wf1100? the wf1100 has a minimum drop size nearly three times larger than the 1400/1800/1900/4800 its roughly 4 picoliter compared to 1.5 of the other printers.. so its drop size is similar to the older 2200 models..

I was thinking of using the 1100 to print the white ink it just being over 100 dollar printer and could be tossed possibly a back to back printer setup or a keyed platen... i was thinking of testing this before ditching the "INKJET" epson format alltogether due to the white ink clogging issues for the low volume printer...

Im wondering if it will fare better against white ink clog? anybody willing to run a trial of white ink thru there 1100?:confused: possibly doing a diary of sorts and letting it sit a few days and bumping up the time of no use until it clogs and is unable to be cleared:confused: Its seems the 1100 would have the best chances of surviving the longest due its drop size, and being the cheapest could be tossed without worry when clogged...
Not a bad idea Jeff... We've discussed this before. I think it's worth exploring... It would be interesting if you could place two 1100s back to back where the platen could move forward and backwards printing a white underbase first going one direction and a color one going the other... I'm swamped printing shirts for the airshow this week but I'll be ripping into my new 1100 soon. I'll place some thought into it then.

Bob ?;O)
 

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I was wondering if anyone has ran white ink thru all channels of the wf1100? the wf1100 has a minimum drop size nearly three times larger than the 1400/1800/1900/4800 its roughly 4 picoliter compared to 1.5 of the other printers.. so its drop size is similar to the older 2200 models..

I was thinking of using the 1100 to print the white ink it just being over 100 dollar printer and could be tossed possibly a back to back printer setup or a keyed platen... i was thinking of testing this before ditching the "INKJET" epson format alltogether due to the white ink clogging issues for the low volume printer...

Im wondering if it will fare better against white ink clog? anybody willing to run a trial of white ink thru there 1100?:confused: possibly doing a diary of sorts and letting it sit a few days and bumping up the time of no use until it clogs and is unable to be cleared:confused: Its seems the 1100 would have the best chances of surviving the longest due its drop size, and being the cheapest could be tossed without worry when clogged...
I do not have an 1100. However I can tell you my experience with the 2200, which is 1 replaced printhead in 1 year. I replaced it not because it was clogged, I still got perfect nozzle check on the white channels, but I had to do a head clean after each shirt. So the channels were only partialy clogged. Most of the times I would run the printer only 2 or 3 times a week. I would reprime the cartridges to mix the white and do a head clean every other day at least.

With that printhead I still could have swaped the white cartridges to the color channels and get probably a few months of it. So my experience with the 2200 is far different from what I have read with people with the r1900.
 

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like this one


in 1100 mode it should be nice
I think it would be much easier to build 2 separate printers and adjust the registration between them. Many manufactures have tried this approach but you do not find any commercial printers with the dual heads any more.
Belquette showed the Mod 2 prototype like 2 years ago and there was the TExmac duet and the DTG eclipse.

There must be a reason they do not sell those systems any more. By the way I have never read of any users with any dual head printers.
 

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Here's a thought... We discussed removing the platen and printing a white underbase using screen printing. Why not put discharge solution in one of the black carts (There are two in the 1100) and print the white underbase using discharge ink? Then we take the platen off and put it under a flash to activate the discharge ink. Then put the platen back in place, push it back into the printer and print the color layer. If we attached the shirt using some locking mechanism and could ensure the platen went back in the exact same position this would be a dead on solution.

Jeff, do you think your friend at EKRip would be willing to program an 1100?

Bob ?;O)
 
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