igus® - Energy Chain® Cable CarriersHi...
I want to know where you get ink line guide like on attachment?
I take the picture from t-jet
The pitch is .080 or mxl... the center distance will vary based on your design, i used a 159 grove..Hey all. My DTG build is currently in process. I'm modeling it after German's V3. German, I think I saw a picture in this thread a few months ago of the actual encoder wheel and the PE motor. It looked like that PE belt was a little longer than what comes with the 1900. Did you have that manufactured by SDP/SI? I like the idea of leaving that motor in its default location, but I'm afraid I'm lost when it comes to pitch and number of grooves (for input on this page). Could you or anyone here possibly tell me what the pitch would be? I think I would like my center distance around 6 inches. Also, to find the number of grooves- is that just a matter of counting the teeth around each pulley?
I'm sorry for being so lost on this stuff. Also, I tried to find those pics earlier in this thread but it's a lot like a needle in a haystack.
the existing pe is not long enough to touch the shirt/platen in its original position.. additionally the original pe is not designed to move both directions, so for example when the platen is pushed back in it would break the pe switch completely...have anyone consider keeping the PE switch on the same position as it was on the printer and let the switch touch the t-shirt from the top of the platen when it's pushed in for printing?
just a conceptual idea.
that is strange? Is there any slipping of your drive?
Will u ever get a patent?The pitch is .080 or mxl... the center distance will vary based on your design, i used a 159 grove..
This base will work on any printer format with few modifications.. If you use a larger format printer than the desktop epsons you will have to lenthen the width of this base to fit... this is a very light base in steel it weighs in at roughly 46 pounds complete with printer and covers.. you can go to aluminum and trim the weigh drastically (however in aluminum you will need to put mounting plates on the frame to mount to a table, it becomes so light when the platen is extended it will tip do to being off balance).. this design is very mobile and transports extremely easy... the frame construction makes for a very lightweight unit but very solid and durable at the same time... (i have had the complete printer fall 4 feet to a concrete floor with no damage outside scratches and ink bottle spill, my cat (american bobtail at 20 pounds) jumped up onto the platen when it was extended
the steel materials are...
1. 1x1 steel tube for frame..
2. 3"x1/8th flat steel for drawer slide mounts
3. 3/4" angle for printer feet mounts..
I cut the pieces and welded this frame together in just under an hour!! PLEASE dont ask for dimensions these are easily figured out based on printer base and platen size (randy will be doing a future pdf on the build)
ALL AS PICTURED..
MAY BE SUBSTITUTED
a wood version could be completed in a few hours and will do the same job just not as strong and pretty..
best of luck..
A FEW PICS BELOW!!
As far as diydtg goes the money is in the product the machine makes not the machine its just a converted epson with good rip..Will u ever get a patent?
I think your platen touch the PE when your printer booting up. Am I right?
may be too tight your fricton?...in the first 2-3 cm while the motor is slowing too much to overcome friction tightening may be....
I didnt, i ran mine just like it normally does.. i think randy put his motor in opposite, therefore reversing the polarity on the motor (just switch the black and red wires) its a dc motor so this will change the direction of travel..Their labeled on the other side :] , How did you reverse the wires on the driver motor?