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Hey all. My DTG build is currently in process. I'm modeling it after German's V3. German, I think I saw a picture in this thread a few months ago of the actual encoder wheel and the PE motor. It looked like that PE belt was a little longer than what comes with the 1900. Did you have that manufactured by SDP/SI? I like the idea of leaving that motor in its default location, but I'm afraid I'm lost when it comes to pitch and number of grooves (for input on this page). Could you or anyone here possibly tell me what the pitch would be? I think I would like my center distance around 6 inches. Also, to find the number of grooves- is that just a matter of counting the teeth around each pulley? :confused:

I'm sorry for being so lost on this stuff. Also, I tried to find those pics earlier in this thread but it's a lot like a needle in a haystack.
 

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Discussion Starter · #2,885 · (Edited)
Hey all. My DTG build is currently in process. I'm modeling it after German's V3. German, I think I saw a picture in this thread a few months ago of the actual encoder wheel and the PE motor. It looked like that PE belt was a little longer than what comes with the 1900. Did you have that manufactured by SDP/SI? I like the idea of leaving that motor in its default location, but I'm afraid I'm lost when it comes to pitch and number of grooves (for input on this page). Could you or anyone here possibly tell me what the pitch would be? I think I would like my center distance around 6 inches. Also, to find the number of grooves- is that just a matter of counting the teeth around each pulley? :confused:

I'm sorry for being so lost on this stuff. Also, I tried to find those pics earlier in this thread but it's a lot like a needle in a haystack.
The pitch is .080 or mxl... the center distance will vary based on your design, i used a 159 grove..
This base will work on any printer format with few modifications.. If you use a larger format printer than the desktop epsons you will have to lenthen the width of this base to fit...:) this is a very light base in steel it weighs in at roughly 46 pounds complete with printer and covers.. you can go to aluminum and trim the weigh drastically (however in aluminum you will need to put mounting plates on the frame to mount to a table, it becomes so light when the platen is extended it will tip do to being off balance).. this design is very mobile and transports extremely easy... the frame construction makes for a very lightweight unit but very solid and durable at the same time... (i have had the complete printer fall 4 feet to a concrete floor with no damage outside scratches and ink bottle spill, my cat (american bobtail at 20 pounds) jumped up onto the platen when it was extended:D

the steel materials are...
1. 1x1 steel tube for frame..
2. 3"x1/8th flat steel for drawer slide mounts
3. 3/4" angle for printer feet mounts..
I cut the pieces and welded this frame together in just under an hour!! PLEASE dont ask for dimensions these are easily figured out based on printer base and platen size (randy will be doing a future pdf on the build)

ALL AS PICTURED..
MAY BE SUBSTITUTED:D

a wood version could be completed in a few hours and will do the same job just not as strong and pretty..

best of luck..

A FEW PICS BELOW!!
 

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have anyone consider keeping the PE switch on the same position as it was on the printer and let the switch touch the t-shirt from the top of the platen when it's pushed in for printing?

just a conceptual idea.
 

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Discussion Starter · #2,889 ·
have anyone consider keeping the PE switch on the same position as it was on the printer and let the switch touch the t-shirt from the top of the platen when it's pushed in for printing?

just a conceptual idea.
the existing pe is not long enough to touch the shirt/platen in its original position.. additionally the original pe is not designed to move both directions, so for example when the platen is pushed back in it would break the pe switch completely...

some folks have used a spring attached to the original pe to overcome this.. however in my research and testing using this method is not predictable as far as registration goes.. in other words this spring could bend and trigger at different points causing registration between white and color layers to be off...

if you are using a 1900 i would suggest using roll mode it finds its own registration preprint everytime with the pw sensor using the pe only as its trigger to do so... phewwwww;)
 

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Discussion Starter · #2,890 ·
ok this one exmple, print in two times , first is the one on top printed in the begining of area, the second printed after , some centimeter later.
that is strange? Is there any slipping of your drive?
I would measure with a caliper to see if the images are indeed the same size if they are then there is no slipping and this is some sort of glitch!!

i used a differnt size platen and experienced this sort of thing in the rip once, however it didnt band but rather printed the image lower on the platen than it should have.. every time...

let us know what you find!!!
 

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thanks german,
what i found is the print bed move slower the during 3 cm in begining don't know why,

i tried with different rip and soft it's same problem, i tired to give more and less tesion to the belt of drive motor and same result , i will check in maintnance pdf to see is there is something.
 

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The pitch is .080 or mxl... the center distance will vary based on your design, i used a 159 grove..
This base will work on any printer format with few modifications.. If you use a larger format printer than the desktop epsons you will have to lenthen the width of this base to fit...:) this is a very light base in steel it weighs in at roughly 46 pounds complete with printer and covers.. you can go to aluminum and trim the weigh drastically (however in aluminum you will need to put mounting plates on the frame to mount to a table, it becomes so light when the platen is extended it will tip do to being off balance).. this design is very mobile and transports extremely easy... the frame construction makes for a very lightweight unit but very solid and durable at the same time... (i have had the complete printer fall 4 feet to a concrete floor with no damage outside scratches and ink bottle spill, my cat (american bobtail at 20 pounds) jumped up onto the platen when it was extended:D

the steel materials are...
1. 1x1 steel tube for frame..
2. 3"x1/8th flat steel for drawer slide mounts
3. 3/4" angle for printer feet mounts..
I cut the pieces and welded this frame together in just under an hour!! PLEASE dont ask for dimensions these are easily figured out based on printer base and platen size (randy will be doing a future pdf on the build)

ALL AS PICTURED..
MAY BE SUBSTITUTED:D

a wood version could be completed in a few hours and will do the same job just not as strong and pretty..

best of luck..

A FEW PICS BELOW!!
Will u ever get a patent?
 

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Discussion Starter · #2,893 · (Edited)
Will u ever get a patent?
As far as diydtg goes the money is in the product the machine makes not the machine;) its just a converted epson with good rip..

I have alot of different designs and workings, the TDOZER V1-3 are not my best renderings;)

I have a whole bunch more up my sleeve.. i enjoy that folks can use my creation to make some xtra $... Its almost become famous..lol:D everyone knows where the TDOZER V1-3 came from thats all i care about as far as those units are concerned..
 

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ok this one exmple, print in two times , first is the one on top printed in the begining of area, the second printed after , some centimeter later.
I think your platen touch the PE when your printer booting up. Am I right?
I got the same problem after my printer boot up. I tricky it with print 1x1 pixel every printer start up. You don't need to do it if you never shutdown your printer.
 

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ok this one exmple, print in two times , first is the one on top printed in the begining of area, the second printed after , some centimeter later.
may be too tight your fricton?...in the first 2-3 cm while the motor is slowing too much to overcome friction tightening may be....
 

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Okay, so I have finished dismantleing and modifying the frame of my Epson 1400

I'm stuck on how to mount the motor to the drive rod, where to mount the PE sensor (Friction drive), and how to assemble the ASF

The photos will show what I have done, and what I haven't

Another question is , i think I may have banged the bottom of the print head moderately against the wood , will that cause any damage?





 

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Discussion Starter · #2,897 ·
your on your way.. i would suggest downloading the cluebook which is authored by randy... it contains the directions per say and will answer many of your questions..

you can get it thru bobs wiki (colorfinger) or here on pg 39ish post 583 ish...

additionally from the pics it doesnt look like you labeled your flat cables for there location.. i suggest you do this so you can plug them back easily (it may take the service manual for you to trace them down if not..)

best of luck!!:)
 

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Discussion Starter · #2,899 ·
Their labeled on the other side :] , How did you reverse the wires on the driver motor?
I didnt, i ran mine just like it normally does.. i think randy put his motor in opposite, therefore reversing the polarity on the motor (just switch the black and red wires) its a dc motor so this will change the direction of travel..:)

best of luck
 
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