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The search engine on this site is very limited. You can find what your searching for, but if its a subject in a thread with a lot of posts, you have to look through all the thread. We need a search engine that will drill down through the threads to the actual post that have the "term/word" being searched for.
RON ?
Would you have anything in mind? Would be a nifty feature especially for threads growing by the leaps.
 

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The link says


Reg. Price:$299.99
You Save:$80.00 (27%)
Our Price:$219.99

Savings Include:



:D currently a new epson 1400 whole printer is 219.00 with rebate from epson and 179.00 for the 1400 refurbed ( clearance center online)..

stock up for many years of printing cheap...:)
$219 makes it cheaper than what an epson 1100 plus a T13 retails here. $139 makes it less than half the price of a 1100. When/How is the mail-in rebate applied? Are there sites/shops that ships them (new and refurbished)?
 

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Jeff, somehow I had it in my mind it was the Workforce T1100. I believe we're talking about the same printer. I meant the Workforce 1100. I guess there is an Office T1100 but it looks different... Sorry to cause any confusion.

Bob ?;O)
Workforce 1100 and Stylus Office T1110 are the same printer. They just use a different name in other countries.
The WF1100, T1100 and B110 are the same printer but they use different ink cartridges. That is what epson told me. However, I am do wonder why their default drivers have different file sizes. Sizes that seems too large just to account for different ink cartridges. Gutenprint also have different drivers for these 3 printers.

If I were to buy that rip could I still use it for my other printers for screen printing? Or would I only be able to use that rip for that specific printer?
Even if the RIP can print denser blacks you must still consider the type of ink installed on your printer.
 

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Bro James..

I noticed also that the service manual has some differences between the printers aswell, one of them is the paper sizes.. im still reviewing this also..:) thanks
I had always thought that the office stylus series was "tuned" for faster letter printing, the photo stylus series for faster photo printing, etc. But knowing now that these series are region specific what I thought I know does not hold water anymore.

Japanese models have more paper sizes and US models have the fewest. Still, the codes for more paper sizes does not seem to be in proportion to the to the increased file sizes.
 

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I really haven't looked at the source so I don't know. But I know from one of the developers and in his case, being concerned with Canon printers, that there are minor differences for the various regional models(to accommodate regional paper sizes). And yes, the printers are really the same.

Epson B1100 and T1100 have the same driver setup program. But clicking it, you are asked to select whether your printer is a B1100 or T1100.

What about the other source code, the related functions/procedures, and global variables before that driver is called? Are they all exactly the same?

But no matter how similar or different the drivers really are, my main interest is whether EKRIP for the WF1100 will work for the Office Stylus T1100 or not.
 

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Yes, it does seem that different ink cartridges and paper size options are the only differences but these are unimportant.

I just got a confirmation from Robert Kravitz, Gutenprint Project Manager, that the WF1100, B1100 and T1100 are "surely the same printer". As Luis pointed out above, Gutenprint's Printers.XML file point to the same printer driver.

It would seem that EKRIP is compatible with all 3 regional releases but a confirmation from EKRIP would be more reassuring. I emailed them yesterday and hope they will reply soon.

Any "clues" for a working WF1100?
 

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I was referring to something like the R1900 cluebook.

How similar or different is the R1900 to the WF1100?

I was told by EPSON Philippines that they do not have refurbished T1100s here. I just hoped they're not sold as brand new because shipping to another country does not seem practical. A brand new T1100 cost about $300 and that is expensive by our standards, For this reason, only a few people tried their hands on DIY and only with entry level A4 printers.

Sorry for the off track but any info to help us cut down on the "r&d" or trial and error costs would be very much appreciated
 

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Thanks Chucky. I've been monitoring this thread for months now albeit not as closely as I should have. Some discussions were simply too technical for me. Plus a R1900 is pretty expensive especially here. I had thought that the WF1100 is a no go for DTG and am surprised to read the new developments on the WF1100.

How is your DIY going?
 

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...
I dont want to lead anyone in the wrong direction or sugar coat/its not easy for most people.. there are those that get it first try some after they go thru a few printers and some that just cant do it...

there are alot of ways to screw it up in an instant, like static zapping a board etc.. I would say that your first build is always going to be trial and error and just plan on destroying the first printer you convert and you will not be disappointed when it happens and if you get it on the first attempt you will be a happy camper... just take your time and ask questions to those that have built it if you get stumped on something..:) If I had to guess on a failure/success rate, judging by the email communication over the last year i would guess theres a 75% failure rate for a number of reasons like the finances to purchase an additional printer if ruined/ lacking mechanical skills/tools to build/ or just plain giving up do to flustration, not what most want to here but very true... Angel its honestly got to the point where i just simply cant answer the amount of messaging i recieve in regards to people trouble shooting there builds...
Thanks. And thanks for the "scary" DIYers-beware facts. I do figure that there are more failures than success otherwise the commercial DTG market would be in deep trouble.

I've tried my hands only on a defective C65 printer. I have thought of starting the ball rolling with entry level A4 printers and yes, the idea of destroying a few printers did cross my mind which is why I still have a 6 foot pole on hand :D

I can't find my cluebook, can't find it on this thread for 2 days, but was able to redownloaded it yesterday. This should be my starting point.
 

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The C65 DIY, while with a defective printhead, is OK mechanically. Its the electronics part that is a hurdle (like the static zapping). Had never been handy with electronic stuff.

This is by a colleague here but its an A4 printer, a T10, and the inks look like pigment.
[media]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8ZGLF5Ckj-M&feature=mfu_in_order&list=UL[/media]
 

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Talking about cutting, I don't seem to recall reading about cutting metals here. But in my C65 there is that metal sheet where the paper passes through. I have to cut it off so the thicker drawer and platen (and shirt too) can pass through. I use a hacksaw but felt that the printer moves too much with every sawing stroke. What do you use? Dremel?
 
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