T-Shirt Forums banner
1 - 15 of 15 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
95 Posts
do away with the skate wheels and go with the original drive rod and a bottom platen with a cork backing.. nothing better in regards to the epson:) theres no backlash to deal with and it fully exploits its best resolution (friction drive).. I have tried every drive i can think of and this simple set up cant be beat.. it does require precision platen (level) and proper tentionioning this is the drive the v3 has in it.. epsons are easy adaptable to a friction drive and best suited for them IMHO..
been doing a lot of reading and watching videos, i have an epson 1100 that i bought for $80 and figure i can give this a try and see if i can get it to work..i have strip the printer down and am ready to buy and build the base..just not sure which way to build..what i am gathering from this pic is that you install the drawer slides and make a platen with cork on the bottom, then the original drive rod that has the grey sandy part on it will move the platen, obviously the sensors have to be set up in the right place but that rod will be the only thing needed to move the platen, correct..i've seen a few 1100s working but were they a pain to get to work, i havent done the asf mod yet, this is all new to me so just want to make sure i do it right since i believe it involves cutting it down, dont wanna mess anything up and have to toss this whole project in the trash..any tips and pics will be gladly appreciated..i will have a lot of questions as i continue my build...hopefully it can be simple;)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
95 Posts
what do you recommend for the printbed? i was looking @ 1/4in mdf board, trying to use something lite so it doesnt put any stress on the motor over time, i was also looking @ 22guage piece of sheet metal from lowes, what are your recommedations, i have 3/4in mdf board left over but i am thinking it might be too heavy...
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
95 Posts
how is your asf mod done in this build, i really cant make it out..

Heres a few pics of the easiest to build T-Dozer design ever!!!:D all you need is a table top to start.. its simply a few stands each side of the printer/slides/platen carrier/platen.. and works awesome as seen in the previous video.. Its a spin off of the T-DOZER V3 DESIGN in a table top mount version..

It uses Johnson brand pocket door track as the slides.. each track comes with two trolleys you need to purchase 4 additional replacement trolleys and replace there center bolt with a new one and double these trolleys inside and outside the track as pictured below.. you then simply bolt your platen carrier to these trolleys with a top and bottom nut for adjusting preasure to the friction drive (needs very little preasure) these can be found at just about any big box home store (home depot) along with the replacement trolleys or online.. these make for a perfect gliding platen carrier that can be used to take full advantage of the 44" long print ie two platens... This makes for a very simplified build and is very flexable with different platen configurations... It isnt prettied up with all the fancy covers etc but the objective is to get printing as cheaply and easy as possible with a diydtg.. most people dont use the covers even on the commercial machines due to ink mist coating the ender strip etc.. It will print awesome equal,or better than any dtg especially with friction drive within the limitations of the printer itself of course rip software is not created equal and different results will be achieved by different brands.... I always make the platens to size (non adjustable) i have platens for t shirts and then i have platens for sweat shirts.. i find it much easier to just make these to size it foregoes all the mechanical work for an adjustable system.. allso this allows you to achieve perfectly level platens for optimal prints...

P.S If there is anyone close to my location I have a need for a good flash dryer and would be willing to trade a wf1100 in its converted stage for a f/dryer of good quality.. (just the printer with the stands attached and the drive relocated without anything else) all the other portions like the carrier/platen and slides you would need to buy and make...
hope it helps:)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
95 Posts
yes its in the ready to print stage..:)

You are having some luck with the start up sequence.. Generally the 1100 will error with the original pad removed from undr the head..

I have had this happen as well.. get clean start ups a few times.. eventually you will get an error, it may be the lighting etc where your at why the pw sensor is reading and giving no error.. this printer when functioning properly will error with the pad removed.. theres several ways around it adding a platen so it will read its distance, letting the platen trip the pe on start up, or manually tripping it by hand...

congrats, and count your blessings you may have one with a missing chromosome:D

nice job, keep us posted..
Can i push the platen back by hand to the starting point or will it error if I move it? I will get my platen done tomorrow and attempt to print something, what is the distance between the platen and printhead? Hope everything keeps goin smooth:)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
95 Posts
spot on, and one of the major reasons im hesitating on complete builds.. shipping is a major problem no matter how its packed/crated/bubble wraped etc...

its a monster customer service headache..:eek:
maybe you can have a pickup window, i'll drive over to pick one up that i can just plug and print..im running out of pain medicine...
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
95 Posts
i know this isnt the 1100 thread but i just printed with the dtg ink for the first time. it looks great on white but i throw the white underbase on it and it looks like hammered dog poooooo!!! here is the pics of what i am talking about. maybe someone has experienced this?? the one with the green is the one with the white underbase, it is a green shirt. the other is the original image
Thats great, your are at least getting it to print, now it's just a matter of tweaking it, are you getting it to print on demand or it is still hit or miss..keep us updated and keep up the good work:)
How about a video of the complete printing process..
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
95 Posts
:mad:just when you can it cant get any worse, been playin with the sensor and i kept going into a head cleaning mode which kept charging the inks or should i say wasting my inks it went thru that process so many times that now on start up getting the solid green light along with the ink light which i believe means im out of ink..i had just got ekrip installed, my platen was secured down and was hoping to just see something and BAMM out ink..really dont know which way to go now because i was hoping to get it all figured out then order the inks that i need along with the ciss..im so close but yet so far..
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
95 Posts
and my problems continue:mad:, trying to print out of ekrip and i get no communication between rip and printer, the printer is ready to print and i hit print and nothing happens, i've installed the drivers, under configure in program it has printers available and ekrip for 1100 is there, does the enable pw sensor box have to be checked or unchecked..i can print out of epson driver but not out of ekrip...check out video it goes thru image process, than says ekrip process completed..

epson 1100 ekrip doesnt print - YouTube
 
1 - 15 of 15 Posts
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top