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Bob,

I think he might mean putting silcone sealant around the area where the cables plug into the printhead. this will prevent ink or liquid running down the cable right into the head. Belquette does this on Mod 1 printheads with a redish orange rubber gasket type stuff.
 

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Here are some numbers my Mod 1 rip gives me for cost. Remember coverage % will change these, but will give you a rough idea. These numbers are based on paying $280 per liter.

No underbase:
4x4 Standard Pocket: $0.01 - $0.03
12x15 Photo: $0.40 - $.60

With underbase:
4x4 Standard Pocket: $0.02 - $0.05
12x15 Photo: $1.50 - $2.50
 

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The epson 1900 has 8 ink channels. Cmyk colors plus 4 whites. Using only 1 ink channel for white wouldn't lay down enough ink so you would have to do many passes to get an opaque white.
 

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I wouldn't buy any rip software until you are sure you can build the printer. You can do test prints with the epson ink set until you get the hardware right.

I haven't found any bulk inksets yet for the epson r2000.
 

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Aju,

Yes 2 channels can make a decent white on the 1400 if time isn't a factor. My guess since this video doesn't show the whole underbase printing that complete print time is close to 20 minutes.

For a hobby user or someone just starting an online store that only sells a couple shirts a day this might be acceptable.
 

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As everyone has already said, don't mix ink brands.

I've seen some dripping issues with the Epson 1400 based (6 color) machines using resolute inks but not with my 1900 model (CMYK+white).

It seems that the Light cyan and light magenta are the issue because of the reducing.

We are still testing different levels of reducing the inks to make light cyan and light magenta and it seems mixing too much distilled water is the issue.

I will let you guys know what we come up with.
 

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Nikolay,

It sounds like the "hot head" error if it works fine but does a clean and errors before printing.

Check the following:
- The ribbon cable from the main board to your printhead might not be installed properly
- Ink could have ran down the ribbon cable into the printhead connector ruining either the printhead or main board

If you buy and download the epson r1900 adjustment program from 2manuals.com it will tell you exactly what the error is.
 

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Andy, A majority of the folks here know that you are owner of Easy T regardless if you have taken your logo and signature off. If you have an idea for something you should pursue that and you have had many years to do so. You have plenty of threads on the forum where you can speak your ideas and tender your customers. Seems you are very interested in the T-Dozer project all the sudden, I don't use arduino programming but i look forward to you starting your free arduino open source project under your own thread, should be interesting project for you,
I'm not hiding who I am.

Can you say the same?

Maybe you should be more open about your quiet affiliation with other DTG products that you can be seen pushing around the internet.

I just thought it needs to be clear that you aren't here out of the kindness of your heart. You're here to post information and videos that then require a purchase from you that has a substantial markup.

You are no different than the people you so loudly railed against. You came on the forum, borrowed information, shared some basics back and then later return to push a product for profit.
 

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The information is free on both the conversion and base building, a very detailed valuable resource that no one has done with detail. No one has to use my product they can use any product they want, there are many choices. I have provided free info here since 2010.
We both know that's not the goal here.

You created a big long thread with no clear instructions to actually make a dtg printer easily then you end it now with what boils down to promotional videos for your controller that you sell.

Funny UFO David started adding these same types of videos a while back and they all got deleted by the moderators as self promotion.

Rodney's inbox would be blowing up if someone else would've pulled this move.
 

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You have your facts mixed up. The original T-Dozer was a manual friction drive unit with all the info provided here. Thousands of those have been built and a simple you tube search will confirm that- like this one over three years ago https://youtu.be/GjRqhiq6Zy0 The reason this thread has 700,000 plus views is the free effort and dedication put into it.. Thats all it takes!
Exactly it's because it was free and people working together on a DIY project.

Now it's videos and info to build something that absolutely doesn't work without added electronics which you are pushing.

That's a huge different from what was started and meant to be. Maybe it shouldn't be a DIY sticky thread now that it is a commercial product thread.
 

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The majority of the serious DIYDTG machines today are being built using a 3rd party controller. The free detailed video resource on the conversion and base will help anyone no matter what product their using (even for the manual friction drive units) . It shows a true evaluation on what it takes to build them and the work involved. This will also deter some from wasting their money if they lack the skills to complete (especially when it comes to the printer conversion, which have lacked detailed instructions to date). Seems your the only one complaining. My project has an alternative site to avoid this kind of drama. I don't depend on TSF, it doesn't affect me either way, i could care less if its here or not! :)
I do have a problem with you coming on here to promote your product when you made such a big stink about me and what I was doing to the point I couldn't even purchase an ad.

In fact every step of the way you and your spectra team did everything you guys could to hurt my business, even publicly falsely stating that my stuff was Chinese made.

Now you come out with a controller that is extremely close to mine and get to advertise it here. Nice double standard.

You can say what you want but you posted the videos knowing the hype and sales it would drive.
 
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