[schenk]

well if your plans get reality, i will be your first customer. put me number 1 on the waiting list! i guess i will do the conversion myself since i live in Europe.

great work!

joris

 

[schenk]

awesome! good to see you starting V3
general diy dtg question: when the printer finishing its print and you have to manually push back the platen, do you somehow lift the bed from the friction wheel? or you just push the bed back while its on the wheel? because i wonder if you push the motor backwards wouldn't it create electrical charge that can cause damage to the electronics?

soon i wil start my own build, i want to go for the friction wheel route but unfortunatly i can only find pics of the belt version. you mind sharing pictures of the t-dozer v2 (with the wheel)?

 

[schenk]

looking forward to see! cant wait. in 2 weeks i finally have some time to start my own version....

 

[schenk]

the printer has already been developed, this is the fourth one i will be building of the new printer.. so i will show its birth in pictures as we go!!

maybe have them all running on the same bag of ink

 

[schenk]

does anybody have any experience creating a bagged setup for it?
i'm planning these: R1900 Damper Refill System| R1900| R Models| Epson| InkJetCarts Saves on Refilling Supplies
however there is no closeup picture of the dampers so anyone owns these? is it possible to fit in tubes, and if yes what tubes?
read few posts back that its better to use bigger tubes than standard ciss tubes


onther thing, the anajet cardridges are priced pretty good here in europe, someone seen these carts and would it be possible to create a connection for it? the ink in those seems to be bagged...

german13: thank for all the work! not everybody is born with your persistence!

rest of us: lets keep on building and finding improvements!

 

[schenk]

just got this one:
R1900 Damper Refillable System| R1900| R Models| Epson| InkJetCarts Saves on Refilling Supplies R1900

it will arrive in 10 days. will keep you updated if its the right one to choose for a DIY dtg.....hope the lines are wide enough.....

 

[schenk]

tdozer bagged ink topic:

found here on this page: AbilityOneCatalog

that looks usable....

an other thing i'm looking at is these

the are called Spouted Pouches.they are available transparant aswell. 500 ml for 50cent each.
i have something similar here and it looks perfect. mine has a hollow cap that i could insert a tube in, put some silicone to seal it...
will do some experiments with it.

i also found out that people use them in DIY radiocontrolled speedboats to prevent air comming into the engine. funny more people have that problem

what kind of material i should look for tubes?

 

[schenk]

great, curious to the v3 progress.

 

[schenk]

i have a r1900 standing, haven't touched it for about a year. i was expecting the worst... but i needed only one headclean to get a perfect nozzle check! amazing i had the original carts in

 

[schenk]

is there any critical position for the neprene wheel roller in v3?

 

[schenk]

My solution for this cable was cable from Hi Voltage unit.
In my ASF modification was necessary to replace only one cable (white connectors)
The motherboard is mounted on the rear panel with two 12 mm spacers, using the existing square holes.

i started today, so far got did the ASF mod like Paulis. looking good. first i was messing with the original epson shaft, but finally i just skipped the entire thing into the trash and just put a regular screw with nylon washers thru the whole thing. works great. (did took me 3 hours)

lots of respect for german and others who did the pioneering of this. i think i wouldn't have the guts to saw apart my 500 euro printer without knowing its all possible.

 

[schenk]

2 questions:

why do i have to trash the high voltage board? (i'm in 230 volt zone, dont know if that makes any difference)

does anybody have a good closeup photo or tip on the PE switch and what to keep and what to saw off. ( man it took me some time to realize that the tiny little thing there is actually the PE sensor.. i expected something with much more grandeur. lol

thanks

 

[schenk]

did you know they sell upper platten at ikea for 9,99? lol.
http://www.ikea.com/nl/nl/catalog/products/90115544
or you think 2,6 kilo is perhaps a bit to heavy for friction setup.

 

[schenk]

I personally have never seen a commercial dtg based on the 1900 with the high voltage.. if you send me your email to the contact form i will send you pictures showing this.... but it would not hurt to keep anyway!! Im not sure about the uk 230 deal but if it was bought there it should work there or i should say be set up for its demographic

so it will just work good if i take it out? what is it doing there than? i'm in Amsterdam BTW

 

[schenk]

shirtstore, (or anybody else) did you keep the cluebook dimesions or did you change some distances? i'm sketching some different options and i'm wondering if you have some tips on dimesions?

 

[schenk]

welcome to diydtg........ you need to check those things i mentioned!!

you will figure it out..its something simple.. if you need more help after that just ask... there will be a few bumps in the road.. Once you get it figured out you will be happy with your accomplishment and the money making machine you made just keep it out of my town

did you check if you have the encoder wheel sensor facing the right direction? i had a similar error and it turned out to be that.

another thing, try to power on with the PE sensor in open position.

my build is starting to get together and i did some quick tests and after i found out that the encoder sensor was facing the wrong direction it seems to power on normal!

as soon as its working i will send photo's of mine

 

[schenk]

here is some work in progress:

 

[schenk]

i think to start with ink bottles and later create a bagged setup. i'm a bit worried about those ink bottles of the damper ciss. they seem to suck up the ink from the bottom of the bottle.... isn't the sludge supposed to be in the bottom of the bottles...

 

[schenk]

there is a plastic spacer (see pic) that fits precisely between the encoder wheel (transpararant plastic wheel that the sensor is reading) and the 1,8 mm MDF side. if that distance is kept you can mount the encoder sensor without the bracket with a screw straigt to the MDF side panel. it fits perfect. will post closeup later

 

[schenk]

hmmmm you probably right mine is spinning a bit heavy. since this is my first one, i'm pretty sure the next will have all those improvements. i intend to build another one as soon as this one is working. first get this one working.... its a t-dozer 2,5
oh and the motherboard is mounted on the frame. you mentioned something about weight, was that out of experience or esthetics's?