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hello, very nice thread, i project to build one r1900 v2, i would to know if someone got source in europe for belt system, ( belt , clamp belt, pulley .....

i found some but never with the good size.

thanks
 

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before see information about dtg diy i bought a flatbed printer from china,after 6 month of negociation with specications,

i would print more than a3 with different weight on textile and aluminium.

finaly the products was an espon 1390 modified with two CISS on for textile other for all purpose .

two set of ink with white (textile and all purpose)

two original head print one for textile one for all prupose

i change the head print and wash it with the respectiuve solution.

i can give you the contact, i found it on alibaba
 

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hi german13 like i said i got a dtg based on epson 1390 with differents relay board driver system .... i bought one year ago

i would be happy to know the result with the white ink with 1400 than 1900, cause i planing to finish my 1290 and start a new projects.

oh and in case of i got a 1400 main board left if you need it to repair one of your proto i can give you it
 

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i had a problem of oder when i bought dupont ink in usa they sent me 1liter of ink instead of pretreatment, i was good thing for me after seen the mistake.

perhaps the company did a mistake during the preparation cause it's all but not white.
 

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ok, you keep the motor wheel around same place to have the good sens and put the wheelsensor and shaft under with a new belt, it's not the pulley mode like V2 but convoyer with rails, pehaps have you used L bracket under the drawer for PE sensor.

the main board behind the printer and asf motor behind the main board support but don't see the sensor i red somewhere that you would used a board system for this sensor i think you found it.

Very nice work Guys, your job give me the pleasure to do it
 

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. Almost everytime I try to print or perform a head clean, some of the carts indicate they are empty and I have to go through a very frustrating and long process trying to reset them and fuffing arround before it thinks it is OK to print.
i have the same problem the last week , and when i puted some ink into the head print with seringue and tube ( black for exemple) and put the cartridge i could print only black, after tried an another main board , head print ....
i ordered new pump ink sytem changed it and all work nice.
 

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If the capping station and pump are working correctly, you should see ink coming out of the waste ink tubes. You could also try to put a few drops of cleaning fluid on the capping station and using a syringe, pull from the waste ink tubes. Cleaning fluid should fill the syringe. Printer needs to be turned off of course.
yes put a few of cleaner fluid on the sponge with seringue but after you need to do a head clean to see if the cleaner fluid gone to the waste bottle
 

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hmm thats great news, your suggesting to replace the one in the picture? the csic assy (coolest name in the printer, the Asic Assy)

never took the printhead out, hope i can do it. difficult?

@German you're back!
i'm also in a doubt if i want to continue to use white ink, my brain says no, but if you see a white shirt rolling out the printer i'm always amazed from the result . the one thing i just cant stand is the pretreatment. its ugly. since i havent had much/no problems with white it i will keep using white for a while. i fill the capping stations every night with cleaning solution completely and shut the ink lines with a clam.
for me the whats really bothering about the dtg printing technique is the limited control over colors. in that field i think EK rip is limited and i should have done more research before i bought it. i hear other people talk about installing profiles, i wish ek has that option.if you print a company logo it needs to be correct colors. i cant get that with EK rip. its always off. my calibrated profiled regular printer can produce perfect color, you can tell the difference.
EK support told me that the ICC profile is build into the program..... what kind of answer is that? the whole purpose of a custom profile is that it measures your specific color situation and creates a file to compensate for offset by the hard/software. how can it be build into the software....
not very difficult it seems the same procedure as1390 and 1400, i use L key to do it, just find the hole push a little and same thing in the other side after you put it up slowy, you don't need to touch the printhead just disconnect the wire of CISC

the part more difficult is find another one CISC perhaps from the ebay shop who sell 1900 without print head for 50$ if you are in usa
 

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for the printhead removal you need to make this metal hook they describe in the manual?

how is your job going
for the this as i said you just need to remove the CISC not the print head, i use this



as i said a few post before just find the hole push a few with this key and do same thing on another side after you can push it up slowly, but before you need to put out the plastik protecing the head cable ( cable holder)
 

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and what actually occurs self aligning in this bearing?talking about axial aligning...
with this support the axe is at 90° at same postion i thinkis this " self aligning"

check the pic,


and i did my asf mode with only one side just cuted the pulley and glued it on the asf wheel, after put the reraly board on this side

i need to use some whasher 12mm to keep the wheel in good place

it's for my 1400
 

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Jeff, because my poor English, please explain again this procedure, step by step simpler please :D
push the ink switch to put the the cariage on left side , like when you want to change cartridge, instaed of change this cartridge , you put the twoo small switch on OFF like there is not cartridge , and put back to ON like you have change this cartridges.
 

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is there some one who trying this, for those who don't print everyday:

take the refilable cartridge put solution clenear in each cartridge to put in the print head and wash it printing, after each end of day work on shirt.

???
 
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